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My vote is on the Whipple! Either way, best of luck!
Roll the engine outside and use a small "unlight" propane torch to cool the end of the crank,while you heat the balancer in the oven.
Check the gap on the plugs it came with. Lately there's been a few reports of the 6.2's coming with plugs not properly gapped.Don't know if that applies to the long block crate engines or not,but definitely worth a check anyways.Last night I installed the ATI super Damper. First I honed out the hub a tad. I had to modify the tool to get it to fit the hub. I used a torch to heat it up a bit (not hot enough to damage the seal). I got lucky a found a bolt to pull the hub onto the crank (used plenty of assembly lube). Once the hub was in place, I used the Whipple pin drill tool, set the pins in place and when the correct bolt arrives, I'll torque it in to specs.
Another thing to know is that the LB comes with spark plugs installed so don't jump the gun and purchase some like I did. They will get used later so not a total waste! It was reassuring to see that the pull was lined up correctly so no issues there. If you will notice, the ATI pully allows for a wider belt when the time comes.
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Not really a common entity in most shops,but if you have a cutting torch you could use the oxy off it, nitrous also works,but propane is one of the colder common entities in most shops,lolOr, you could likely work indoors with a scuba tank, if you have one of those around.
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You read my mind!! They are way easier to get to now than later if I throw a cylinder misfire code on my retune. Also I like to hand spin the crank to see that the oil is flowing good though all of the lifters before putting the valve covers back on. Makes a bit of a mess but worth the piece of mind.
A 1 gallon garden sprayer makes a good pre-luber. Use the upper port above the oil filter,as that's the pressure port into the oiling system,the lower port is just to the oil filter.
Well that’s a slick idea!!
MMX has decent steel stabilizers,that are similiar to Ma Mopars old steel stabilizers,avoid Stanke's aluminium ones,they have a habit of galling over time.My steel Mopar stabilizers show no wear after 70,000 miles and 600 nitrous passes at the track,while my buddies Stanke stabilizers are pretty well junk at 80,000 miles,and alot less track passes.
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