BD Diesel Install

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swine

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Installed the BD Diesel exhaust manifolds this weekend. Like many, many others my truck developed the annoying exhaust tick. I explored the different options; headers (both long and short), OEM, milling. Most of the shorty headers had pretty mixed reviews on long term reliability (saw lots of reports of cracked welds) and the ones with the best reputation (aFe short tube) were $1000. Long headers require replacing the whole exhaust system, adding even more expense. OEM is just asking for a repeat result. Milling might be a possibility, but you don't know the condition until after you remove the manifolds.

I wasn't looking for any performance gains, I just wanted reliability and some measure of affordability, so I decided to give the BD manifolds a try. These guys have a great reputation in the diesel performance world (which is way more stressful on parts). Reach out to Nick at GotExhaust if you're interested in these.

Anyhow there's plenty of documentation on replacing manifolds so I won't address that here. Driver's side appeared fine, no broken bolts. Passenger side had two broken bolts. Both of the ones at the rear cylinder. Both were broken basically even with the surface of the head. I opted to weld nuts on to the remains of the bolts to get them out. Much easier than trying to drill them out. The last picture shows how far from level the manifold was on that last cylinder.

PXL_20231022_153000272.jpg PXL_20231022_155445751.jpg PXL_20231022_173600162.jpg

The install was as straight forward as you would expect. The BD Diesel kit has everything you need to install the new manifolds, all new bolts and gaskets. The only thing I didn't anticipate was having to replace the heat shields. Both were cracked on the mounting points and it didn't seem like a good idea to reuse them. The new manifolds move the mounting spots slightly so that they use their own bolts to mount rather than the piggyback OEM style.

Anyhow, it went fairly well and definitely stopped the tick. Only time will tell if these are a permanent solution.
 
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PA Ram

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Installed the BD Diesel exhaust manifolds this weekend. Like many, many others my truck developed the annoying exhaust tick. I explored the different options; headers (both long and short), OEM, milling. Most of the shorty headers had pretty mixed reviews on long term reliability (saw lots of reports of cracked welds) and the ones with the best reputation (aFe short tube) were $1000. Long headers require replacing the whole exhaust system, adding even more expense. OEM is just asking for a repeat result. Milling might be a possibility, but you don't know the condition until after you remove the manifolds.

I wasn't looking for any performance gains, I just wanted reliability and some measure of affordability, so I decided to give the BD manifolds a try. These guys have a great reputation in the diesel performance world (which is way more stressful on parts). Reach out to Nick at GotExhaust if you're interested in these.

Anyhow there's plenty of documentation on replacing manifolds so I won't address that here. Driver's side appeared fine, no broken bolts. Passenger side had two broken bolts. Both of the ones at the rear cylinder. Both were broken basically even with the surface of the head. I opted to weld nuts on to the remains of the bolts to get them out. Much easier than trying to drill them out. The last picture shows how far from level the manifold was on that last cylinder.

View attachment 530557 View attachment 530558 View attachment 530559

The install was as straight forward as you would expect. The BD Diesel kit has everything you need to install the new manifolds, all new bolts and gaskets. The only thing I didn't anticipate was having to replace the heat shields. Both were cracked on the mounting points and it didn't seem like a good idea to reuse them. The new manifolds move the mounting spots slightly so that they use their own bolts to mount rather than the piggyback OEM style.

Anyhow, it went fairly well and definitely stopped the tick. Only time will tell if these are a permanent solution.
Did you have any trouble getting the collector to seal? Mine are both leaking with the BD manifolds.
 
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swine

swine

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No, I didn't have any issues with that.
 

PA Ram

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No, I didn't have any issues with that.
It's getting so frustrating, had zero collector leak before installing and now both leak. The manifolds did eliminate the exhaust leak at the manifolds. Did you remove exhaust from hangers to get pipe to seal to the manifold? I didn't, but trying to figure out how to get a better seal. I know the top bolt on the driver side is harder to tighten, because the O2 sensor is right behind it.
 

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The collector leak is more annoying than the manifold leak. It doesn't go away when warmed up and is very obvious when driving. I can hear it on passenger side too, but only if by a wall and it's much less obvious. Here's a pic of my driver side after I put high temp red rtv ultra and retightened the bolts more evenly. Looking at the pic I still don't like how the collar on the cat side doesn't seem seated all the way.

1000002134.jpg
 

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Not saying I know it all...But the way I was always taught was when you assemble multiple parts of ANYTHING, don't tighten ANYTHING until you get it all lined up. In your case, I would have loosed the entire exhaust system mounts all the way back, put the collectors on and started tightening from there, so it all lined up.
 

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I get what you're saying, but the exhaust was already lined up with the stock manifolds and these are direct replacements so once they're bolted on they should be lined up, right? What I will most likely do is unbolt the collectors and remove exhaust from hangers, or at least the ones closest to the front so that it has some movement. I've read as many reviews as I could find on the hemi BD manifolds and only found one that said he couldn't get collectors to seal. So every other one said it lined up and worked as it should.
 

Wild one

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I get what you're saying, but the exhaust was already lined up with the stock manifolds and these are direct replacements so once they're bolted on they should be lined up, right? What I will most likely do is unbolt the collectors and remove exhaust from hangers, or at least the ones closest to the front so that it has some movement. I've read as many reviews as I could find on the hemi BD manifolds and only found one that said he couldn't get collectors to seal. So every other one said it lined up and worked as it should.
There are manufacturing tolerances,especially when it comes to exhaust systems,which makes me wonder if your mid pipe might not be a touch out of whack. If it is ,you'll probably never get a good seal unless you cut the midpipe in half,bolt up the collectors,then reweld the mid pipe.
 

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There are manufacturing tolerances,especially when it comes to exhaust systems,which makes me wonder if your mid pipe might not be a touch out of whack. If it is ,you'll probably never get a good seal unless you cut the midpipe in half,bolt up the collectors,then reweld the mid pipe.
I'm out of work the rest of the week with COVID so I'm gonna mess with it some. Could still need to be tighter. Hard to get a torque wrench in there. With the y pipe disconnected I will see if I can't get a better seal. Also plan to use some high temp muffler seal on the joint and let it fully cure. Hoping one or a combination seals it. If not I'll eventually take it somewhere and let them do the exhaust work.
 

Wild one

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I'm out of work the rest of the week with COVID so I'm gonna mess with it some. Could still need to be tighter. Hard to get a torque wrench in there. With the y pipe disconnected I will see if I can't get a better seal. Also plan to use some high temp muffler seal on the joint and let it fully cure. Hoping one or a combination seals it. If not I'll eventually take it somewhere and let them do the exhaust work.
I hate muffler cement,lol. Pull it down and use a wire brush / die grinder / sand etc. to clean all the old crap off and get it down to shiny metal on both the manifold and inside of the collector ,then try re-using your high temp rtv. Use an impact gun to run things up,nobody torques those bolts,lol. If the 02 sensor is in your way remove it so you can get at the upper bolt better
 
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Nick@GotExhaust

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Installed the BD Diesel exhaust manifolds this weekend. Like many, many others my truck developed the annoying exhaust tick. I explored the different options; headers (both long and short), OEM, milling. Most of the shorty headers had pretty mixed reviews on long term reliability (saw lots of reports of cracked welds) and the ones with the best reputation (aFe short tube) were $1000. Long headers require replacing the whole exhaust system, adding even more expense. OEM is just asking for a repeat result. Milling might be a possibility, but you don't know the condition until after you remove the manifolds.

I wasn't looking for any performance gains, I just wanted reliability and some measure of affordability, so I decided to give the BD manifolds a try. These guys have a great reputation in the diesel performance world (which is way more stressful on parts). Reach out to Nick at GotExhaust if you're interested in these.

Anyhow there's plenty of documentation on replacing manifolds so I won't address that here. Driver's side appeared fine, no broken bolts. Passenger side had two broken bolts. Both of the ones at the rear cylinder. Both were broken basically even with the surface of the head. I opted to weld nuts on to the remains of the bolts to get them out. Much easier than trying to drill them out. The last picture shows how far from level the manifold was on that last cylinder.

View attachment 530557 View attachment 530558 View attachment 530559

The install was as straight forward as you would expect. The BD Diesel kit has everything you need to install the new manifolds, all new bolts and gaskets. The only thing I didn't anticipate was having to replace the heat shields. Both were cracked on the mounting points and it didn't seem like a good idea to reuse them. The new manifolds move the mounting spots slightly so that they use their own bolts to mount rather than the piggyback OEM style.

Anyhow, it went fairly well and definitely stopped the tick. Only time will tell if these are a permanent solution.

Great post. Glad install went well for you and thank you for the opportunity to earn your business!
 

PA Ram

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I hate muffler cement,lol. Pull it down and use a wire brush / die grinder / sand etc. to clean all the old crap off and get it down to shiny metal on both the manifold and inside of the collector ,then try re-using your high temp rtv. Use an impact gun to run things up,nobody torques those bolts,lol. If the 02 sensor is in your way remove it so you can get at the upper bolt better
LOL, I did think about impacting it on there. Maybe you're right. Just getting tired of jacking it up pulling the wheels and liners to keep messing with it. I think you're right about tightening it though. I don't think it's tight enough. I have a swivel impact adapter which may work for getting in there. Believe me if I get it fixed, Everyone will know!!!
 
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Wild one

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LOL, I did think about impacting it on there. Maybe you're right. Just getting tired of jacking it up pulling the wheels and liners to keep messing with it. I think you're right about tightening it though. I don't think it's right enough. I have a swivel impact adapter which may work for getting in there. Believe me if I get it fixed, Everyone will know!!!
If you decide to remove the 02,mix up a small batch of transmission fluid and acetone about 50/50,then soak the 02 sensor for a day or 2 before you tackle removing it.Doesn't hurt to drive it between soakings,as it'll penetrate better with a few heat cycles
 

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If you decide to remove the 02,mix up a small batch of transmission fluid and acetone about 50/50,then soak the 02 sensor for a day or 2 before you tackle removing it.Doesn't hurt to drive it between soakings,as it'll penetrate better with a few heat cycles
Hahaha, my son in law who's a diesel mechanic told me same solution for stuck or stubborn bolts. He gave me a can of something a few weeks ago that some sales guy was peddling to his family business and said it worked as good or better than acetone and trans fluid. I think my swivel socket can maybe navigate around it.
 

Wild one

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Hahaha, my son in law who's a diesel mechanic told me same solution for stuck or stubborn bolts. He gave me a can of something a few weeks ago that some sales guy was peddling to his family business and said it worked as good or better than acetone and trans fluid. I think my swivel socket can maybe navigate around it.
You should post a pic of what he gave you,i'm always on the look-out for a good penetrating fluid,lol
 

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I'll check tomorrow, should be in my garage somewhere. I know he said it wasn't sold in stores. Seems to work pretty good. I'll drop a picture here when I find it. Hoping to start ripping the truck apart tomorrow. Need to see if I have a 4x4 laying around somewhere so I can jack the whole front end and place jack stands. I have a crappy hydraulic floor jack (works okay just doesn't have super high lifting range). Can't get on center frame and get both tires off the ground. Real world problems. Just sucks if if have to do one side at a time.
 

Wild one

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I'll check tomorrow, should be in my garage somewhere. I know he said it wasn't sold in stores. Seems to work pretty good. I'll drop a picture here when I find it. Hoping to start ripping the truck apart tomorrow. Need to see if I have a 4x4 laying around somewhere so I can jack the whole front end and place jack stands. I have a crappy hydraulic floor jack (works okay just doesn't have super high lifting range). Can't get on center frame and get both tires off the ground. Real world problems. Just sucks if if have to do one side at a time.
I go under the A-arms and jack one side at a time,the front crossmember is easily bent if you're not careful,lol.
 

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Probably gonna concentrate on driver side 1st anyway. It's noisy and annoying right now.
 

Wild one

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Probably gonna concentrate on driver side 1st anyway. It's noisy and annoying right now.
That might be your issue,i'd loosen both sides off and run them up like you would a wheel,snug one bolt up on the drivers side,then snug the opposite bolt up on the passenger side and so on.
 

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I get what you're saying, but the exhaust was already lined up with the stock manifolds and these are direct replacements so once they're bolted on they should be lined up, right?
No...If they were "EXACT" replacements they would be the same crappy quality as the old ones. I know they label them as "direct" replacements...That NEVER (to me, anyway) means they are EXACT replacements. I would have loosened it all and started from there. That's just me, based on my experience with aftermarket parts.
 
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