Got the truck taken care of yesterday, warranty paid $1000 so I only ended up being out $650 which I’m not complaining about, the guy at Les Schwab hooked me up too so I really can’t say anything bad about them. They did try to talk me into struts/shocks, brakes as well as rear axel seals but...
Well I found my bitter sweet solution, I bought a good warranty with the truck and I called them up to see if they’d cover any of this. Surprisingly they will cover more than half the repairs. Although I could still do it myself for less than what I’d even pay with the warranty paying half I’m...
Thanks for the heads up, I’ll make sure I’m prepared with the right equipment if it comes to that. I’m going to try to soaking them first, luckily this isn’t something I need to take care of right away.
So my truck is from Canada and has some rust underneath, not to terrible. Long story short, I needed an alignment due to the truck pulling to the left after a flat on my front left this last weekend. Took it to Les Schwab and they aligned it as best they could and was pretty darn close to...
I was more so meaning I shouldn’t have taken the initial risk with Redline because I didn’t do enough homework on everything the product does. I know on an older engine a “good cleaning” isn’t always a good idea and I didn’t realize Redline does that I was stupidly assuming it just had more...
Thanks for directing me to that link, that is a great thread with lots of great info and now I understand why I should not use Redline oil in my truck. Ironically after driving my truck over the last few days the sound seems to have softened and quieted down but I’m still going to change the oil...
I’ll give that a try, I must have the only Hemi that doesn’t like Redline. I think I’ll try Pennzoil 5-30, the Pennzoil appears to be what my engine likes.
Shopped called me a little bit ago and gave me their assessment. The tech didn’t think anything sounded wrong with it and it sounded how a Hemi is going to sound around a 100k. He had their senior tech listen and drive it around both cold and hot and he didn’t discern anything abnormal either...
Both headers were leaking pretty good and were loud when I bought it. It did quiet down after you got going and it warmed up but it was covered under warranty so I had the shop change the headers and bolts out. They are not a muffler shop, just a pretty standard repair shop, it was one of those...
Hey neighbor! Haven’t been to the in-N-out yet, I’ll give it another year or two to calm down before I go lol. I did have the manifolds and bolts replaced shortly after I bought the truck but I know those bolts break all the time. What throws me is the constant tick when the engine bay is heat...
I’d love it if it were a manifold bolt or two but I did have both manifolds and bolts replaced shortly after I bought it last year. I suppose one of the new bolts could’ve broken, sounds like a common recurring issue. It’s currently at the shop that replaced the manifolds last year so they...
I’ve 105k on it now and I bought it with 86k on it. I’m currently running Redline 5-20 but honestly doesn’t sound any different than when I was using Pennzoil full syn 5-20. So far I’ve been changing it when the indicator tells me too at 5k miles.
@Burla here it is. Not the best vid, I did this when I was changing the oil about a month ago. I wonder/feel like I’ve been hearing the sound for a while but it is now just a bit louder. Thanks
https://youtube.com/shorts/ysR_jWaJeeA?si=hVf2WECEVgb11t-k
Here is about a min long vid of my engine running. This was from a cold start, I don’t feel as though you can hear it as well until I’m on the passenger side of the truck. I also feel like the tick is more audible when the truck is...
Ok I guess this is more of a rant, I’ve been hearing a ticking or knocking noise. January of 23’ I had my front axles replaced, trans fluid/filter, rear diff fluid as well as my manifolds and manifold bolts as the exhaust was leaking like crazy. Luckily most of these repairs were covered under a...
Filled it up today and did just what you said and I was able to avoid it overflowing. Do you know what the fix for this is, does the tank need to removed to change the valve or do I need a new tank? I see a lot of talk about people needing to replace their fuel tanks.
Hi all, in the last couple of months when I go to fill my truck up at the gas station quite a bit of fuel has started spewing out of the filler neck when the tank reaches full with the nozzle still in. The pump shuts off and then like a 1/8 of a gallon on fuel coming flooding out. There is no...
Finally got around to to doing the job, running at proper temp now and getting there faster. I replaced my tensioner and idler pulleys, pvc valve, the old pulleys were fairly worn out. I discovered my water pump pulley bearing was going bad too. It wasn’t leaking yet but there was just enough...
That’s what I was thinking too, it’s time for the big tune up. If I knew that the swing in temp that I have been seeing is relatively normal then I’d leave the Tstat alone and just flush the system. But for a $10 part that relatively easy to get to I think it would be a mistake not to change it...
Okay so for a little more perspective I just drove 20 miles on mostly clear freeway and the temp stayed between 177-181. I’m sitting letting it idle (about 5 min now) and it won’t go above 183. The ambient temp is 51 degrees out.
Could be the case, I hadn't thought about it partially sticking open. I still think a 20 plus degree swing is to much even if the tstat is partially operating. I’m about to pass 100k with this truck and I’ve only had it for a year. It was traded in before all the 100k tune up stuff was do I’m...
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