Had similar issue on my ‘08…ended up being wires under driver side of firewall that supply power to fuel pump There was a connector with loose wires that would cause the same issue…always fired up cold, but it shut down warm wouldn’t start until after sitting for a while. Other thing to check is...
Maybe better to go with an OE driveshaft? Just crossed 430k miles on my ‘08 4.7 and never had a driveshaft issue. I’m seeing more and more instances of subpar aftermarket replacement parts since Covid.
So only cools while accelerating or only cools while in motion? Sounds pretty indicative of a failed condenser fan. Idea is while car is moving, air moves thru condenser and cools. But when stationary, there will be no air moving thru condenser without a functioning electric condenser fan.
when I had issues with an intermittent fuel pump, took some time to figure out but ended up being a frayed/broken wire under the driver side of truck, just aft of firewall. I’ve seen a couple others on here with the same issue since, so this would be a good place to check based on your symptoms.
Just buy a spare tipm…they’re awfully nice to have for troubleshooting. Purchased mine years ago for well under $300 from Summit to troubleshoot an issue that ended up being a broken wire in the harness. Couple years later at around 300k my original tipm went kooky and had a spare to swap in...
Good point…would need to have a slot to slide over the bed-mounted hinge on passenger side, but shouldn’t be that tough to build. May go that route if I can’t find a replacement in better condition than the original. It does look like the lower passenger side hinge on a 4g tailgate is different...
Don’t mind the body lines being a bit off…it’s a work truck after all. It’s not just the bushing that’s missing, but the actual round spot-welded tailgate hinge.
Bump…can anyone tell me if the 4g tailgate is a direct swap, or if any of the parts need to be swapped (ie hinges, latch, etc) to work in a 3g? There appears to be a couple dark blue 4g tailgates within striking distance
Ok so pulled the tailgate today as it wasn’t likely to stay on the truck much longer. Does anyone know if the missing spot-welded round piece is available separately? Talked to the machine shop and they could certainly put something together to fix it, but the cost would likely be in the same...
Well…the bungees kept the tailgate on the truck, but now that round hinge has broken off the tailgate and gone missing. Had an appt with my local machine shop tomorrow to get it fixed…is that part available separately to spot weld on, or does it only come with a tailgate? I should’ve taken the...
I’ll get a pic tomorrow. The part that’s broken is the circulsr piece of metal that’s welded to lower passenger side of tailgate and houses the bushing. The bolt on hinges attached to body appear to be ok but haven’t looked closely.
Current tailgate has some dents, plenty of scratches, and the...
The truck has been in California all it’s life so there isn’t really a spec of rust on it, other than the mild surface stuff where paint has chipped off. It’s just spent the last 15 years having the **** beat out of it on some marginal country roads and around the farm. Appearance isn’t super...
Hit a big dip at the ranch and found the passenger side of my tailgate hanging off. Looks like the metal hinge (the circular metal part attached to tailgate) popped out and is tweaked. Now any little bump without my ghetto temporary remedy (pictured below) and that side of tailgate will jump off...
What gear jammer said…pop cover with shift pattern, remove nut, unscrew knob
Recommend the Core short shifter if you’re looking for such a thing. Have had mine for well over 200k miles (with supplied hurst knob) and it’s still working great.
Waiting for people to tell you how dumb it is to drop a 4wd…
https://mcgaughys.com/product/2-4-lowering-kit-2006-2008-dodge-ram-1500-trucks-2wd-44014/
This kit should work because spindles have the holes for 4wd clearance. I’ve been contemplating doing the same but need some ground clearance...
Next I would check wiring. Several years ago when my truck was around 250k miles, had an issue where it would cut out over a bump (or reversing up a hill), but only when ambient temps were 90+. Long story short ended up being a broken wire in middle of main harness. It took my mechanic having...
good idea to get a spare pcm and tipm for troubleshooting, as they aren’t very expensive. I just had a similar issue on my ‘08 4.7 (intemittent p0302) that was worse when cold. Had a spare pcm laying around from diagnosis of a problem a few years ago, and sure enuf the pcm was the issue.
Interesting…flashmasters does list two different 4.7 MT pcm part numbers, and one of them does match mine (4373). I was able to get the spare pcm from my local mechanic a few years ago for troubleshooting…he had a source I guess, and seems to be working just fine. But given my truck config was...
Thanks…looks like a good spot to buy a reman unit. Do they repair/rebuild as well? Have a working spare pcm now running the truck, and would rather have the original fixed for somewhat irrational reasons. Reviews seem good will give them a call
Truck (08 4.7 6spd) had a cylinder 2 misfire, which ended up being caused by a faulty original pcm. Luckily had a spare pcm sitting around that I purchased few years ago to help diagnose another problem, and that fixed the misfire. Now would like to have my original pcm repaired to have another...
Original engine replaced by Chrysler under LPT warranty at a little over 300k miles. It probably didn’t need to be replaced, but was starting to burn oil from valve seals, and upon inspection rockers were worn and all valve springs were “squished”, as in they wouldn’t return to full extension...
Problem solved…bad pcm. Plugged in a spare pcm and truck runs on 8 angry cylinders again! Would like to have original pcm repaired to keep as a spare on the shelf. Any recommendations on where to have this done?
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