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Marc7071

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360
Hi all. This being my first post, I'll apologize in advance if its in the wrong section. Also I'm not certain if there are other threads that cover this already so if there is I'd appreciate if someone can point me in the right direction.
So I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 SS/T that I bought new. Back in 2015 I put the truck in storage. Until recently its been sitting in an enclosed garage. It hasn't been started in all that time.
Even with roughly 190k miles on it, it ran perfectly when I put it away but I know better than to just try to start it after all this time without any prep.
I've got a decent idea of some things to do but I'd like to get any tips and opinions from members that I may not have thought of.
One thing I'm very concerned about is the condition of the cylinders. It was stored in an enclosed garage but not a climate controlled one so condensation and possible rust in the cylinders is a high possibility. Short of pulling the engine and rebuilding it (I'm on a paper-thin budget), is there a preferred product that I can spray in the cylinders to pre-treat them and prevent potential ring damage?
The other is how to go about draining the old gas since I know the filler tube has an anti-syphon valve built into it.
Any help on this would be welcomed and appreciated.
Being the original owner, I know this is a great truck and would love to have it back on the road again.
 

Tank Guy

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Cummins 5.9
My 98 pictured in my avatar has a thirty four gallon tank. If after sitting as long as yours has it only had a few gallons of fuel left in it I'd be tempted to fill it up with new fuel and give it a try. The few gallons of old fuel would be so diluted by new fuel that you'd likely be okay.

You might also disconnect the fuel line in a convenient location down stream and let the fuel pump transfer all the fuel into a bucket for you.

But if you feel you need to get into the tank, depending on how much fuel is in it, dropping it could be difficult. Fortunately there's a fairly easy way around that. Back off the bed mounting bolts on the right side frame rail until they're nice and loose but still present, then remove the bolts on the left side and disconnect the filler tube at the top where it mounts to the side of the bed. Separate the wiring harness connection between the frame and the bed and now you should be able to tilt the bed up and place a prop of some sort to hold it up out of the way. You'll be surprised at how light the bed is. Now you should have easy access to the top of the tank. Remove the pump assembly and you can siphon the old fuel out.
 
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Marc7071

Marc7071

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I'm pretty sure it had a full tank when put into storage. The original plan was that a friend would fire it up every month or two but that fell through early on so the tank should still be plenty full. It's a 28 gallon if I remember correctly. So there's also the issue of where to go with all that old gas.
Your bed tilt idea sounds like a decent option given the bolts cooperate in coming loose. Never had them out before and it's seen many winters on salty roads. Better stock up on rust penetrant. Lol.
Thanks.
 
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Daw14

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I do not know how much rubber tubing that may be present within the fuel delivery system, but it is going to need changing.
I’m not sure about where the filler neck enters the tank , but if it’s got a rubber gasket ,chances are that it’s mushy also.
 

Magfan2

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You s/b able to siphon the old fuel into gascans and use it when combined with a larger quantity of fresh gas.
 
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Marc7071

Marc7071

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You s/b able to siphon the old fuel into gascans and use it when combined with a larger quantity of fresh gas.
I'm a little wary of doing that since I've tried it before in the same truck with another vehicle's old gas. Maybe I used too strong a ratio but it ran like crap until it got more fresh gas run through it.
Not sure if the old fuel system will like me doing it again. I'm also concerned about the condition of the fuel rail as they were susceptible to rusting. Then clogging the injectors. Don't want to complicate it by adding bad gas on top of it.
With today's gas prices, though, your idea does have merit. Just gotta figure out the safe ratio.
 
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Marc7071

Marc7071

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Just a little show n tell.
The day I brought it home brand new (plastic shipping covers still in place) and the day it went into storage. Can't wait to drive it again!
 

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Marc7071

Marc7071

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Didn't the SS/T Rams come with factory 2.02" valves? With some bolt-ons and a tune, I bet she'd be a riot!
Not that I remember. I've been a Mopar partsman for decades and never saw a different part number for SS/T heads. The only difference is know of was that it has different exhaust from the cat back giving it a few more horses. But, yeah, it was a lot of fun to drive bone stock right off the lot.
 

Marshall

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sitting for 10 yrs not turned over is not good on anything, Good luck it may be fine, But I would have pulled the plugs and dumped some oil in the holes and turned it over .
My son just changed his fuel pump in his Daytona Ram and picked the box up a couple feet with his engine picker.
He has a picture he posted on FB , but don't know if I can find it .
He had the garage full of other projects , so did it in the driveway.

If it was pre crappy eth. gas ,It may be OK , I have had gas sit for a few yrs in old stuff and it still worked, but I have seen old gas in small motors that looked like jello.

If you have more ambition them me ,I would pull the plugs and try to crank it over, or bar it over a turn or two.

Likely should flush brakes after you get it running. Those are great motors.

BTW another problem is mice using it for condo's, they seem to like wire insulation, and the air filter and box.
 
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Marshall

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Back when I was on the farm ,I had 5 gallons of "Top Oil" ,I would run some thou the old stuff, which was most if it, suppose to clean top end , in my 440 motors it was great for fogging the bugs driving around while it burnt off, Did it help? ??? maybe?
But back then cost was cheap, as well as gas. With cats these days , it may not be a good idea.
 
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Marc7071

Marc7071

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sitting for 10 yrs not turned over is not good on anything, Good luck it may be fine, But I would have pulled the plugs and dumped some oil in the holes and turned it over .
...
If you have more ambition them me ,I would pull the plugs and try to crank it over, or bar it over a turn or two.

Likely should flush brakes after you get it running. Those are great motors.

BTW another problem is mice using it for condo's, they seem to like wire insulation, and the air filter and box.
That's one of the things im asking advise about. What is a good oil to put in the cylinders? I've heard of a "fogging" oil but haven't come across any sources yet. Or just use a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or something like that, or could it be something simple like tranny fluid? Just don't know and I want to do it right the first time just to be safe.
Oh and for the mice, im aware of that since, years and years ago, a squirrel chewed through the plastic part of one of my fuel lines. Luckily it was back when I could still order the factory replacement parts so it was a quick fix.
 

Marshall

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I don't really know what would be the best, trans oil would work, but something in a spray can may be simpler, WD40 is what I use lots of.
That top oil was a light wieght oil, clear maybe about like ATF for weight, I would just dribble it in the carb while on fast idle, the drive till the smoke cleared.

If you over did it on a dead motor, you may not get any fire till oil soaked away, so just a light shot , or just hit the key and see what happens. Cross your fingers may help.:grd:
 

Hardracer

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Didn't the ss/t have a 360 in it back then?
I had a '98 sport with the 318
 
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Marc7071

Marc7071

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Didn't the ss/t have a 360 in it back then?
I had a '98 sport with the 318
Yes. The SS/Ts had no options as far as drive train was concerned short of MAYBE rear end gearing. And little others on everything else compared to other models.
But it was fine because mine was perfect as I bought it. Didn't change a single thing.
 
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