Electrical System Failure: Multiple Module Communication Loss and Instrument Cluster Malfunction

[Yowkati]

So as of two days ago my truck was relatively fine (pep boys debaucherized my power control arm and rotors currently pursuing legal options as theyve made a “complementary repair” to their previous repairs 7 times since February its actually foul but ill spare you from what that looks like)

So i was out with a girl and we got distracted (netflix and ramming) and long story short i forgot to turn my car off for like 3 hours when i go to jump it with a box that was on 75% charge nothing ended up being able to use my apparently dead battery to charge it to 100 and my phone and have ac still unable to jump it ended up having to buy a whole new box the next day luckily was parked at a walmart anyway and was able to jump it with that one than got “home” (its a 45 min drive from this walmart to my house) turned my car off and figured it was the box being low on battery or something weird i honestly was so tired i just went to sleep woke up and went out to start my truck nothing try jumping with new full box nothing get my buddy to bring me my trickle charger he was using it charges all day plug it in nothing jump it with the new box on full success
However once i got in my truck i noticed that every light on my dash that could be on was my speedometer was no longer working yet my rpm is i have turned my car off twice since that and only for minutes been driving around for 3 hours now am currently back sitting at a different walmart after getting my battery tested n it coming back healthy same with starter n alternator checked my obi2 reader and saw that i was suddenly throwing

	U110C Lost Fuel Level Message	V
U0141	Lost Communication With IPM (FCM/TIPM)	^
	P0463 Fuel Level Sensor 'A' Circuit High
	U1403 Implausible Fuel Level Signal Received
	U110E Lost Ambient Temperature Message
	P0456 Evap System Small Leak

	B1A25 Invalid Key
V	6 Front Control Module (Central Gateway) Codes
	B1648 Rear Right Turn Lamp Control Circuit High
	P127E Fuel Pump Control Circuit 2 Open
	B1669 Reverse Lamp Control Circuit Open
B1644	Status: PENDING - Rear Left Turn Control Circuit High

B2213

Status: ACTIVE - Cabin Compartment Node/Cluster

Out of literally no where im unsure about what my next steps should be i bought a new tipm when i got her in November and have fully changed out my fuses

I read that the fuel pump relay inside the tipm could be my problem and that i could bypass it with some simple stuff from autozone so im going to try that but i also wonder if it could be specific modulesof my tipm or my power control module itself the wires are frayed looking but all getting power save my left blinker n left brake light but i figured out my problem there and repinned it last night while trying to figure out what was wrong now i also finally discovered what this little white knob as below is (not in manual and no mechanic could figure it out) it was this stupid little relay that hadnt been connected since i bought it hooked it up and suddenly wow fog lights anyway here all my pics please for the love of all things holy please help i live in the damn truck its literally my house i got it converted to a camper in the back any guesses or insight would be appreciated

 

[TradesmanGuy]

I can't read stuff like this. One long never ending sentence, no punctuation, no capitalizing, nothing. Help us out...

I get it. You're a kid, texting generation, and it's cool to just blast away and not proof read. I get it, but do not approve.

 

[Yowkati]

alright you feeble boomer i had ai rewrite in 1940s style english now please help me gramps

To Whom It May Concern:

As of two days past, my motor vehicle was operating in a satisfactory condition. I must note that the establishment known as Pep Boys has performed what can only be described as substandard work on my power control arm and rotors. I am currently pursuing legal recourse, as they have made seven so-called "complementary repairs" to their previous work since February of this year. The situation is quite deplorable, though I shall refrain from elaborating on the particulars.

On the evening in question, I was accompanied by a young lady, and we became otherwise engaged. In the course of events, I neglected to deactivate my vehicle's engine for a period of approximately three hours. When I attempted to restart the automobile using a jump box with a 75% charge, the depleted battery was unable to restore the device to full capacity, nor would it start my vehicle. I was compelled to purchase an entirely new jump box the following day. Fortunately, I was parked at a Walmart establishment and was able to successfully start the vehicle with the new apparatus.

Upon arriving at my residence (a journey of some forty-five minutes from the aforementioned Walmart), I deactivated the engine, presuming the issue had been with the insufficiently charged jump box. Being quite fatigued, I retired for the evening. The following morning, I attempted to start my truck to no avail. The new jump box, now fully charged, was equally ineffective. A colleague was kind enough to bring me a trickle charger, which I utilized throughout the day, yet this too proved fruitless. Eventually, I was able to start the vehicle using the new jump box at full charge.

However, upon entering my truck, I observed that every indicator light on my dashboard was illuminated. My speedometer ceased functioning, though the RPM gauge remains operational. I have since deactivated the engine twice, but only for brief periods. I have been driving the vehicle for approximately three hours and am currently situated at a different Walmart location, having had my battery tested (results indicate it is healthy), as well as my starter and alternator (both functioning properly).

Upon checking my OBD2 reader, I discovered the following diagnostic trouble codes:

U110C Lost Fuel Level Message
U0141 Lost Communication With IPM (FCM/TIPM)
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor 'A' Circuit High
U1403 Implausible Fuel Level Signal Received
U110E Lost Ambient Temperature Message
P0456 Evap System Small Leak
B1A25 Invalid Key
V 6 Front Control Module (Central Gateway) Codes
B1648 Rear Right Turn Lamp Control Circuit High
P127E Fuel Pump Control Circuit 2 Open
B1669 Reverse Lamp Control Circuit Open
B1644 Status: PENDING - Rear Left Turn Control Circuit High
B2213 Status: ACTIVE - Cabin Compartment Node/Cluster

These issues have emerged quite suddenly, and I am uncertain as to my next course of action. I purchased a new TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) when I acquired the vehicle in November and have since replaced all fuses. I have read that the fuel pump relay within the TIPM might be the source of the problem, and that one might bypass it with simple components obtainable from an Auto Zone establishment. I intend to attempt this solution, though I wonder if the issue might be with specific modules of my TIPM or the power control module itself.

The wiring appears to be frayed in appearance, though all are receiving power, with the exception of my left blinker and left brake light. I have already identified and remedied this particular issue by repinning the connection last evening. I also discovered the function of a small white knob (not mentioned in the manual and unknown to several mechanics) – it was a relay that had not been connected since I purchased the vehicle. Upon connecting it, my fog lights became operational.

I must emphasize that this truck serves as my primary residence, having been converted to camper accommodations in the rear compartment. Any suggestions or insights you might provide would be most sincerely appreciated.

 

[RamDiver]

A typical jump box is not a battery charger and cannot restore a depleted battery.
The two jump packs I own both have a temporary start setting.

This start setting only engages for a very limited time and allows a fixed, limited current draw.

The description provided suggests the starting battery is defective.
The digital battery load testers used by most commercial establishments are prone to false positives.

This $20 toaster-style battery load tester from Harbour Freight is the definitive test tool to verify the battery's integrity.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

BTW, the age of the battery is irrelevant. Until it is proven with a toaster-style load tester, it will be the prime suspect for this type of failure. We often see this same failure every day.


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[TradesmanGuy]

Much better. I'd get a NOCO Genius 5, and attempt a long proper charge. All those failures are the truck screaming Help Me. All are drawing or attempting to work with a weak system. Thays my 2c. FWIW.

 

[RamDiver]

Much better. I'd get a NOCO Genius 5, and attempt a long proper charge. All those failures are the truck screaming Help Me. All are drawing or attempting to work with a weak system. Thays my 2c. FWIW.

Much better or much different?

Once the internal resistance of the battery starts to rise and the capacity wanes, the state of charge is quickly becoming less relevant.

The capacity cannot be gauged very accurately by the state of charge.

Sure, a good practice is a long slow charge but followed with a toaster-style load test is the only practical method to determine capacity and availability to repeatedly start the vehicle.

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