FOB PROGRAM HELP

[tbowers391]

Man, thanks for all of that. I’m going ti check those links and read up on anything I can find associated with that info, but I just wanted to get back to you real quick regarding the battery.

So I just did cam and lifter rebuild on this thing, while I was doing it I did find the ground wire from both heads to firewall was snapped and not ground to firewall. I thought weird because I haven’t noticed anything too crazy electrical wise (besides stupid AC blower fan terminal to TIPM coming loose, shorting out and eventually melting itself).
But I was able to break out my soldering supplies (I used to enjoy building copper distillation units ) and I soldered it back together.

Fast forward finally get the engine back together and on the road. Like 2 days later I notice starter struggling. I take it to test battery and it was smoked. Luckily they replaced it under warranty.

So anyway, I saw some codes in the system just after that about low voltage etc and just figured they were related to the battery issue which was replaced. So I’ve cleared them and I think this is the only one that seems to come back? Maybe that helps by eliminating the battery and probably head/firewall grounding straps and I should troubleshoot more connections?

 

[JW2 Innovations]

I've seen some really weird stuff on previous Ford F250, my previous Durango, and now Ram with battery either not getting charged or something draining it while it sits and shouldn't be. If all that is testing out good, I'd go for ground cables/straps and then connectors.

Just asking, but when doing that work did anything get pinched or dropped on wiring wise that you recall? Harness wire shorts can happen from rubbing or impact is why i ask.

Ground cable on battery terminal. Follow it to frame and make sure no corrosion, loose, etc.

Do you have wiring diagram for yours? 2013 I would think you could probably download somewhere. Might help

 

[tbowers391]

Looking very quickly looks like there is a TON of technical service bulletins about TCM/PCM and software updates? How do these work? Not like a recall right?

And since it seems it’s just a software update I’m assuming it’s got to be cheap or free from dealer?

I know years ago I received 1 single usb stick I believe that plugged into my console to update things. Have no clue what it did though. But that’s been 9-10 years ago. I’ve moved so many times since then I never receive any ram mail

 

[tbowers391]

I don’t believe so, but I will say I unplugged one of the large plugs to the PCM I believe and of course it wouldn’t snap back in super well. If feels like it’s in there but seemed like one of the plastic pieces wore out or snapped a bit because it doesn’t snap. It’s been a few weeks I’ll check it again but I don’t think it’s actually backing out.

Would make sense though right

 

[tbowers391]

I don’t believe so, but I will say I unplugged one of the large plugs to the PCM I believe and of course it wouldn’t snap back in super well. If feels like it’s in there but seemed like one of the plastic pieces wore out or snapped a bit because it doesn’t snap. It’s been a few weeks I’ll check it again but I don’t think it’s actually backing out.

Would make sense though right

Scratch that, I just checked that plug it again to refresh my memory. It’s fine and it takes some effort to unplug it. It was the I guess locking portion of the tab for the red handle/locking mechanism.

Plug snaps in good, then you pull down on the red locking handle/tab whatever you want to a call it, and that locks in fully. Mine does the whole process except the last snap in for the red locking handled at the bottom it just doesn’t fully click. But plug is in there. I pulled and wiggled and it doesn’t move unless you pull that red arm all the way up.

No black locking tab


Yes black locking tab

 

[tbowers391]

Ok, I’ve cleared the 100 and 101 codes and they do not read now. I thought I had done this before but I guess I did not. Now my only codes in the RF Hub are the fob codes B1A0B and B1A0C. Which with my research so far only points to
• Excessive press from Keyless Entry Fob (RKE) transmitter when is out of range
• Faulty Keyless Entry Fob (RKE) Transmitter
• Faulty Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM)

For me, maybe I pressed too many times on the fob out of range? But then again the new fobs seem to programmed but not be married to the vehicle, or else if I push the start button with the actual fob it tells me “wrong fob.” My old fob works that way though. I have a hard time believing my TIPM is smoked, as it actually was acting up before an accident a year ago and when the body shop put things back together they replaced the TIPM. So it’s basically brand new.
So I’m thinking what are the chances these new fobs are faulty? Both of them at that?


If moderators or someone could delete my posts #24 and #25 as they are basically me talking to myself and don’t add any value to the situation.

 

[JW2 Innovations]

I'd clear those codes too, and try to add them again. You should get response that they are already there. If they still don't work and you just get the same B codes again, then I'd send them back.

What is you voltage from battery with truck shut off?

 

[tbowers391]

I'd clear those codes too, and try to add them again. You should get response that they are already there. If they still don't work and you just get the same B codes again, then I'd send them back.

What is you voltage from battery with truck shut off?

Yea that’s what I meant I cleared ALL codes already. The B1A0B/C codes come right back as soon as you press a button on new fob again.
And yea I also cleared them and tried to add them and it told me they are already programmed and can’t be reprogrammed.

I’ve returned and gotten two brand new fobs with same exact problem again. Happens after first startup and drive. I reset ECU and reset RFhub just after programming fobs too. They worked for hours (I kept walking around house testing lock and unlock button) then as soon as I started truck and drove it, parked and shut down, they stopped working and same “wrong fob” error on dash when I tried to press fob against start button.

Also, noticed this time I was sitting in the truck alone sulking after shutting it off, dash finally shut down completely. I tried the fob button again just in case, and I noticed the lights on the gauges would light back up. But no screen or anything else, much less door lock or truck start.

So obviously they are still sending and receiving signal to the hub?

I found this thread OP and a few others describe exactly what I’m dealing with.

My new battery with truck off is at 12.68v

 

[Ken226]

Yea that’s what I meant I cleared ALL codes already. The B1A0B/C codes come right back as soon as you press a button on new fob again.
And yea I also cleared them and tried to add them and it told me they are already programmed and can’t be reprogrammed.

I’ve returned and gotten two brand new fobs with same exact problem again. Happens after first startup and drive. I reset ECU and reset RFhub just after programming fobs too. They worked for hours (I kept walking around house testing lock and unlock button) then as soon as I started truck and drove it, parked and shut down, they stopped working and same “wrong fob” error on dash when I tried to press fob against start button.

Also, noticed this time I was sitting in the truck alone sulking after shutting it off, dash finally shut down completely. I tried the fob button again just in case, and I noticed the lights on the gauges would light back up. But no screen or anything else, much less door lock or truck start.

So obviously they are still sending and receiving signal to the hub?

I found this thread OP and a few others describe exactly what I’m dealing with.

My new battery with truck off is at 12.68v

Does your fob work to lock/unlock doors? If so, here is another option. I've been using one of these for 5 years.

Use AlphaOBD to program one of these to work for your ignition.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTIVLHO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=ramforum-20

Just cut the metal part off and belt send the end flush/flat.


I did it back in 2019 and am still using the same key 5 years later. It only works in the ignition, but there is no battery to go dead. I programmed it with AlphaOBD, and it has been working ever since.

Here is the post about this, from 2019. Post# 33,374 dated 12/11/2019

What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

Added some fogs on this Amazon special mount. Function over form on this install. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk I've been thinking of doing the same. Any reason not to??

www.ramforum.com

Here is mine, with the metal part cut and sanded smooth.

 

[tbowers391]

Does your fob work to lock/unlock doors? If so, here is another option. I've been using one of these for 5 years.

Use AlphaOBD to program one of these to work for your ignition.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTIVLHO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=ramforum-20

Just cut the metal part off and belt send the end flush/flat.


I did it back in 2019 and am still using the same key 5 years later. It only works in the ignition, but there is no battery to go dead. I programmed it with AlphaOBD, and it has been working ever since.

Here is the post about this, from 2019. Post# 33,374 dated 12/11/2019

What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

Added some fogs on this Amazon special mount. Function over form on this install. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk I've been thinking of doing the same. Any reason not to??

www.ramforum.com

Here is mine, with the metal part cut and sanded smooth.

View attachment 542589

Thanks bro, but unfortunately no functions work anymore. No lock, unlock, or push to start. Only thing that works is using my old dead fob to press the start button with the fob.

I have my original key that if for some reason I do decide to lock my doors, I can use it to open the door. Then I must quickly get the fob to the start button and press it to start the truck to shut the alarm off.

 

[Ken226]

That sounds a lot like your RF hub had died.

 

[Ken226]

It might be worth pulling the rear bulkhead and physically checking the RF hub and it's antennas/connectors. I just recently saw a post somewhere about a rear window leak resulting in a fried RF hub.

 

[tbowers391]

how would one test all functions besides just physical observation of connections and antennae?

You would think if it’s Rf hub failure it would just not pair to begin with, or not notice the fob after some time. This only happens after 1 startup and drive.

I could pull the other new fob out of the box, program it seamlessly right away, and then after taking it for a drive with next new fob it will do the same thing.

The signal is getting there and also being received, proven by the gauges lighting up again after pressing button.

And even trying to program them again, it acknowledges the fob and says it can’t be programmed because it’s already been programmed.

 

[Ken226]

how would one test all functions besides just physical observation of connections and antennae?

You would think if it’s Rf hub failure it would just not pair to begin with, or not notice the fob after some time. This only happens after 1 startup and drive.

I could pull the other new fob out of the box, program it seamlessly right away, and then after taking it for a drive with next new fob it will do the same thing.

The signal is getting there and also being received, proven by the gauges lighting up again after pressing button.

And even trying to program them again, it acknowledges the fob and says it can’t be programmed because it’s already been programmed.

Yea, you'd think. But, when the RF hub is a computer, communicating with another computer, wth all of the various functions that these parts control, it's unlikely that ALL of the RF hubs functions failed at the same time.

If, the RF hub is the problem, more likely that just one of its various functions failed. Perhaps not even the RF hub, but perhaps one of the antennas.


The baseline system, like mine, only has one antenna. It reads the lock/unlock and remote start. On mine, the win module reads the keys RFID chip, for engine start.

The high line system (push button start), has 2 antennas. One for door lock/unlock, and a second antenna that reads the keys RFID, to allow for the push button.

It's possible that something on the RFID side of you rf hub **** the bed, while the other side is still fine. Or, maybe a rat ate through a wire somewhere, a leak happened, or any number of other possibilities. The only way to know is to diagnose, inspect the parts and/or start replacing parts.

Often, when computers fail, there is no external indicator aside from the symptom.

It sucks, but I've been there.

Get the part# off of your RF hub and find a used one on eBay they go for around a hundred bucks.

 

[ric221]

If you are replacing the RF hub don't buy used, as it may not work with your vehicle do to vin mismatch. Buy a new one they can be had for about the same price.

 

[Ken226]

If you are replacing the RF hub don't buy used, as it may not work with your vehicle do to vin mismatch. Buy a new one they can be had for about the same price.

Can't AlphaOBD write the VIN to the hub. I'm pretty sure I just saw a post recently from someone who did it.

Maybe I'm remembering wrong though.

 

[tbowers391]

Ok how about this, I am also getting codes in the body control module. My right side blinkers, tail and headlights keep signaling they are out but work fine. Checking into the codes it looks like U0147 can have something to do with a problem with the CAN bus circuit and different modules communicating with eachother? Could that be behind some problems maybe?

Maybe it’s the Rf hub, maybe not, idk. But I would hate to buy a new hub and go through all the steps to try to copy vin and possibly f it up, and it not be the issue. I have a hard time believing it’s just the Rf hub as like I said it all works totally fine, for hours even, until 1 start stop cycle. I feel if it actually is in Rf hub it has to be software related and not the actual hub.

 

[Ken226]

Yea, that definitely points towards something other than the RF hub.

Check the big BCM connector above left of the brake pedal. I accidentally pulled the cam lever loose once with my foot, and it caused all kinds of weird errors and codes.