- Joined
- Mar 30, 2014
- Posts
- 6,158
- Reaction score
- 4,282
- Location
- SC
- Ram Year
- 2022 Ram 1500 (5th Gen)
- Engine
- 5.7L
Mpgrimm2's Cellphone Mount and Hidden Power Setup
There are several posts about where to mount a cellphone and custom holders for the console folks but I figured I would share my setup. (I posted the info somewhere else briefly but can't find the post now).
Please note that these pictures were taken after the fact because I wasn't thinking at the time about posting this, but I will be happy to answer any questions.
This should work with MANY FCA vehicles with the same switched 12v socket, but is known to work with 2013-2016 Trucks (and likely 2009-2012).
Recommended Parts:
- 12v Power Accessory Kit, PN: EZ-DC-T $30
(From OemAutoPartsCo, or just splice in to the 12v Switched outlet)
- DC to DC Voltage Regulator 8-22V to 5V 3A/15W with Micro USB plug $12
(From Amazon, Ebay, or similar. ** Make sure you order it with the correct plug ** )
- iOttie Cellphone Mount with Qi Wireless Charging $42
(Or similar item. My exact Qi Easy Flex charger isn't sold anymore, but the iOttie mounts hold very strongly to the dash/ textured surfaces and is a recommended brand)
The install:
1) It is recommended to disconnect the battery before hand, just to prevent any snafu's.
2) Remove your radio bezel, radio, and also the lower panel area to gain access to the back of the switched 12v outlet's plug (lower left side if you don't have a console, otherwise it's in the console).
- 2013-2016 Ram Radio Removal 6-27-16.pdf
3) Plug in the 12v Power Accessory Harness/T-adapter inline with the existing factory plug and outlet.
4) Connect the 5v 3amp DC converter to the two leads from the new Accessory Harness. You can use the included butt connectors, shorten the leads and use solder/heatshrink or even male/female "fast-on" terminals... your choice.
Note 1: You could also splice in a 2nd DC converter to the accessory harness to power a 2nd device, ie. GPS or portable XM receiver like I did. I wouldn't recommend more than 2 pucks for fear of blowing the fuse, but it should have plenty of room on the factory fuse.
5) Secure the little power supply puck somewhere behind the dash with zipties.
6) Make a small 1/4 sized oblong hole next in the side of the existing left screw hole to allow the usb cable to pass through and also notch out the rubber tray bottom as pictured.
7) Route the microUSB connector up to and through the dash storage tray such that it won't be caught/damage when the radio/bezel are re-installed.
Note 2: You can always conceal the mod later by replacing the rubber tray bottom with a new one.
PN: 1WQ39DX9AA ($13 from Tasca, eBay, or similar)
8) Reconnect battery and test/verify.
Hope this helps.
Some cheaper options for those with solder skills and patience:
- You can just splice/solder two leads with some male/female fast-on connectors and a fuse onto the back of the factory wires if you have the ability and want to save $30 (I did).
- If you don't want to use the 5v DC puck, you can carefully crack open the iOttie or a compatible cellphone car charger (2A minimum) and solder two power leads to the circuit board inside (where the cigarette terminals would contact the socket) and bring them out the nose with matching fast-on terminals, then reassemble the charger (I did).
There are several posts about where to mount a cellphone and custom holders for the console folks but I figured I would share my setup. (I posted the info somewhere else briefly but can't find the post now).
Please note that these pictures were taken after the fact because I wasn't thinking at the time about posting this, but I will be happy to answer any questions.
This should work with MANY FCA vehicles with the same switched 12v socket, but is known to work with 2013-2016 Trucks (and likely 2009-2012).
Recommended Parts:
- 12v Power Accessory Kit, PN: EZ-DC-T $30
(From OemAutoPartsCo, or just splice in to the 12v Switched outlet)
- DC to DC Voltage Regulator 8-22V to 5V 3A/15W with Micro USB plug $12
(From Amazon, Ebay, or similar. ** Make sure you order it with the correct plug ** )
- iOttie Cellphone Mount with Qi Wireless Charging $42
(Or similar item. My exact Qi Easy Flex charger isn't sold anymore, but the iOttie mounts hold very strongly to the dash/ textured surfaces and is a recommended brand)
The install:
1) It is recommended to disconnect the battery before hand, just to prevent any snafu's.
2) Remove your radio bezel, radio, and also the lower panel area to gain access to the back of the switched 12v outlet's plug (lower left side if you don't have a console, otherwise it's in the console).
- 2013-2016 Ram Radio Removal 6-27-16.pdf
3) Plug in the 12v Power Accessory Harness/T-adapter inline with the existing factory plug and outlet.
4) Connect the 5v 3amp DC converter to the two leads from the new Accessory Harness. You can use the included butt connectors, shorten the leads and use solder/heatshrink or even male/female "fast-on" terminals... your choice.
Note 1: You could also splice in a 2nd DC converter to the accessory harness to power a 2nd device, ie. GPS or portable XM receiver like I did. I wouldn't recommend more than 2 pucks for fear of blowing the fuse, but it should have plenty of room on the factory fuse.
5) Secure the little power supply puck somewhere behind the dash with zipties.
6) Make a small 1/4 sized oblong hole next in the side of the existing left screw hole to allow the usb cable to pass through and also notch out the rubber tray bottom as pictured.
7) Route the microUSB connector up to and through the dash storage tray such that it won't be caught/damage when the radio/bezel are re-installed.
Note 2: You can always conceal the mod later by replacing the rubber tray bottom with a new one.
PN: 1WQ39DX9AA ($13 from Tasca, eBay, or similar)
8) Reconnect battery and test/verify.
Hope this helps.
Some cheaper options for those with solder skills and patience:
- You can just splice/solder two leads with some male/female fast-on connectors and a fuse onto the back of the factory wires if you have the ability and want to save $30 (I did).
- If you don't want to use the 5v DC puck, you can carefully crack open the iOttie or a compatible cellphone car charger (2A minimum) and solder two power leads to the circuit board inside (where the cigarette terminals would contact the socket) and bring them out the nose with matching fast-on terminals, then reassemble the charger (I did).
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