Passenger side rear bearing

[jbrown5030]

I noticed a kind of thunking noise a little while back that happened when decelerating. That turned into a more recognizable grinding hum and I started poking around for a culprit yesterday. The passenger side rear bearing seems to be the issue, and there’s a noticeable amount of up/down or side-to-side play in the hub (video linked below).

Do I have my diagnosis correct? Is this indeed a bearing problem?

Research would indicate that with that much play I’m probably looking at replacing the axle on that side. Is that a correct assumption?

Lastly, I’m still in a laid off and looking for work situation so I’d like to keep as much money in my pocket as I can. I’m pretty handy with brakes, suspension, exhaust and that sort of wrenching, but something about having to get into the differential to pull the axle has me thinking I need outside opinions on whether I should really leave this to a pro or if this is territory I can conquer. Thoughts?

Final question, if this is best left to pros, any recommendations on a mechanic in or near Raleigh NC?

Video of hub play

5.7, crew cab, 4x4, 3.92 if it makes a difference.

 

[G-Ride990]

That's a lot of play. I would agree with your assessment of something going on with the bearings.

Out of curiosity how many miles are on your truck?

Check out this video

Probably need new bearings and a seal on that side. Doubt you need a new axle. But you won't know until you get in there.

It's not a difficult job. If you have the right tools and a some mechanical common sense, I am sure that you are more than capable of tackling this job.

 

[pgoodwin79]

If it did do some scaring or small damage to the axle shaft they do make a repair bearing that you can replace it with it will move the contact to the axle to a different spot...will keep you from doing a complete axle and give you more time to do a complete job at a later time if you choose to do so

 

[jbrown5030]

That's a lot of play. I would agree with your assessment of something going on with the bearings.

Out of curiosity how many miles are on your truck?

Check out this video

Probably need new bearings and a seal on that side. Doubt you need a new axle. But you won't know until you get in there.

It's not a difficult job. If you have the right tools and a some mechanical common sense, I am sure that you are more than capable of tackling this job.

124k 108k miles on it.

 

[EdGs]

Sure appears to be an axle bearing issue.

With that much play, it's hard to believe you don't have gear oil all over everything.

Definately need to pull the axle(s) and check the bearings. If the axle is indeed shot, you should replace BOTH axle bearings and seals, as well as cleaning out the rear diff and axle tubes.

Wishing you a smooth and lasting repair.

 

[Grams]

I noticed a kind of thunking noise a little while back that happened when decelerating. That turned into a more recognizable grinding hum and I started poking around for a culprit yesterday. The passenger side rear bearing seems to be the issue, and there’s a noticeable amount of up/down or side-to-side play in the hub (video linked below).

Do I have my diagnosis correct? Is this indeed a bearing problem?

Research would indicate that with that much play I’m probably looking at replacing the axle on that side. Is that a correct assumption?

Lastly, I’m still in a laid off and looking for work situation so I’d like to keep as much money in my pocket as I can. I’m pretty handy with brakes, suspension, exhaust and that sort of wrenching, but something about having to get into the differential to pull the axle has me thinking I need outside opinions on whether I should really leave this to a pro or if this is territory I can conquer. Thoughts?

Final question, if this is best left to pros, any recommendations on a mechanic in or near Raleigh NC?

Video of hub play

5.7, crew cab, 4x4, 3.92 if it makes a difference.

I believe you do indeed have a bad axle-bearing. Don’t be surprised to need to replace that axle.
My 2012 Ram 1500 had a similar failure about 100K. It required both rear axle shafts and we found Ram to be expensive and back-ordered, so we installed “Yukon” brand axles. Problem solved.

Ran that truck another 120K miles without any axle issue.

HERE’s part of the problem: The Ram 1500s use a bearing with NO Inner race! The rollers in that bearing run DIRECTly upon the axle-shaft. When the bearing fails, it commonly damages the axle-shaft….and if the axle isn’t replaced it will quickly ruin the replacement bearing.

It’s not a difficult job if you want to do it yourself.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

I noticed a kind of thunking noise a little while back that happened when decelerating. That turned into a more recognizable grinding hum and I started poking around for a culprit yesterday. The passenger side rear bearing seems to be the issue, and there’s a noticeable amount of up/down or side-to-side play in the hub (video linked below).

Do I have my diagnosis correct? Is this indeed a bearing problem?

Research would indicate that with that much play I’m probably looking at replacing the axle on that side. Is that a correct assumption?

Lastly, I’m still in a laid off and looking for work situation so I’d like to keep as much money in my pocket as I can. I’m pretty handy with brakes, suspension, exhaust and that sort of wrenching, but something about having to get into the differential to pull the axle has me thinking I need outside opinions on whether I should really leave this to a pro or if this is territory I can conquer. Thoughts?

Final question, if this is best left to pros, any recommendations on a mechanic in or near Raleigh NC?

Video of hub play

5.7, crew cab, 4x4, 3.92 if it makes a difference.

This is a very simple task here to remove an axle shaft.

Remove the rear wheel.
Remove the brake caliper, caliper bracket and rotor.
Remove the cover from the rear diff and drain fluid.
Remove the pinion mate shaft (pin) from the center of the diff. It has an 8mm bolt in it that has to be removed and then push the pin out of the diff.
Next, push in on the axle shaft from the wheel end to release the C-clip from the axle shaft.
Slide the axle out for inspection.

 

[stenerson]

If it's the bearing it could also be leaking gear oil. In that case you might have to replace the emergency brakes also. I had to replace the wheel bearing in my 2004 3rd gen Ram 1500. But it was closer to 250K miles.

 

[Mojo88]

If it did do some scarring or small damage to the axle shaft they do make a repair bearing that you can replace it with it will move the contact to the axle to a different spot...will keep you from doing a complete axle and give you more time to do a complete job at a later time if you choose to do so

Sure appears to be an axle bearing issue.

With that much play, it's hard to believe you don't have gear oil all over everything.

Definately need to pull the axle(s) and check the bearings. If the axle is indeed shot, you should replace BOTH axle bearings and seals, as well as cleaning out the rear diff and axle tubes.

Wishing you a smooth and lasting repair.

I agree with both of these.

Also, I agree with @Fast69Mopar above. The main caveat I have seen with these jobs is to NOT rotate the diff once the pin is removed, or re-assembly will become more difficult (spider gears and any shims will fall out of place). Just take the axles straight in and out. Once you get it all back together, then rotate the axles a bunch of times with the cover off checking for smooth, quiet operation.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

I agree with both of these.

Also, I agree with @Fast69Mopar above. The main caveat I have seen with these jobs is to NOT rotate the diff once the pin is removed, or re-assembly will become more difficult (spider gears and any shims will fall out of place). Just take the axles straight in and out. Once you get it all back together, then rotate the axles a bunch of times with the cover off checking for smooth, quiet operation.

Sorry, I forgot to mention the rest of the parts in the center of the diff. Like @Mojo88 said, If you have an open differential I.E. no Trak-Lok,(Sure-Grip to the old timers), once you remove the pinion mate shaft pin and push the axle in to gain access to the C-clip do not rotate the diff. or the axle on the other side. Behind each spider gear is a convex washer/shim. If you rotate the diff. with one axle removed the spider gears and their washers will rotate out of position. They are easy to get back into position but to avoid any extra work or any confusion it's best to just not rotate anything while the axle is removed.

 

[Mojo88]

Sorry, I forgot to mention the rest of the parts in the center of the diff. Like @Mojo88 said, If you have an open differential I.E. no Trak-Lok,(Sure-Grip to the old timers), once you remove the pinion mate shaft pin and push the axle in to gain access to the C-clip do not rotate the diff. or the axle on the other side. Behind each spider gear is a convex washer/shim. If you rotate the diff. with one axle removed the spider gears and their washers will rotate out of position. They are easy to get back into position but to avoid any extra work or any confusion it's best to just not rotate anything while the axle is removed.

Yeah, and it's easy to miss one of those washers when it furtively slips out of position, then re-assemble and start driving, only to IMMEDIATELY hear loud crunching noises....ask me how I know, haha...

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Yeah, and it's easy to miss one of those washers when it furtively slips out of position, then re-assemble and start driving, only to IMMEDIATELY hear loud crunching noises....ask me how I know, haha...

Haha yes. Now everyone will have a nightmare about that sound from the rear diff.

 

[jbrown5030]

If it did do some scaring or small damage to the axle shaft they do make a repair bearing that you can replace it with it will move the contact to the axle to a different spot...will keep you from doing a complete axle and give you more time to do a complete job at a later time if you choose to do so

Does anyone have a link to this repair bearing? I’m not having any luck searching for it. TIA

 

[EdGs]

Is your axle damaged? I'd be surprised if it's not.

Better off replacing the axle if it's damaged, IMO.

 

[pgoodwin79]

Does anyone have a link to this repair bearing? I’m not having any luck searching for it. TIA

I may have been a little quick looks like they make every bearing number around the one for your truck yours looks to be a National 6410...which should be a RP6410 cause the RP of course means repair other years have the 6408....There may be one somewhere but i cant find it...unless the RP6410 was discontinued...sorry i got your hopes up

 

[jbrown5030]

Just to settle any bets any of you guys might have going on, yes, it definitely wanted a new axle.

 

[ramman95]

Yeah, apparently nobody makes a repair bearing for the 4th gen axles. Your only option is to replace the axle.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Yeah, apparently nobody makes a repair bearing for the 4th gen axles. Your only option is to replace the axle.

Sometimes you can find a redisleeve. It’s a repair sleeve you tap down the axle and then grind off the folded edge you used to tap it into place. They come in various sizes and you can use the original sized bearing