2014 2500 Transmission Trouble

[Andersonracing87]

Looking for some help on my 2014 Ram 2500 with a 6.4L and a 68RFE trans at 80,000 miles. I’ve been having some intermittent trouble. When the transmission gets up to temp it will sometimes shift down from 5th or 6th to 4th pretty hard under low load at which point it will no longer shift into 5th or 6th gear until you shut the truck off and turn it back on. Also when it is in this “mode” if you will, when accelerating from a stop it shifts really rough from first to second. I was thinking possibly time for a filter/service but tonight, I also had it get stuck in 4th gear. I had it in “manual mode” with a top gear of 6 selected to shut off the MDS and came to a stop, at which point the gear shown on the dash changed to a 4 and it would not shift to any other forward gear (higher or lower.) I had to put the truck in park and shut it off and restart which put it back to completely normal. This makes it seem electrical but I don’t want to just start throwing parts at it. Any Ram techs see this in the past? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[TheEnder]

Looking for some help on my 2014 Ram 2500 with a 6.4L and a 68RFE trans at 80,000 miles. I’ve been having some intermittent trouble. When the transmission gets up to temp it will sometimes shift down from 5th or 6th to 4th pretty hard under low load at which point it will no longer shift into 5th or 6th gear until you shut the truck off and turn it back on. Also when it is in this “mode” if you will, when accelerating from a stop it shifts really rough from first to second. I was thinking possibly time for a filter/service but tonight, I also had it get stuck in 4th gear. I had it in “manual mode” with a top gear of 6 selected to shut off the MDS and came to a stop, at which point the gear shown on the dash changed to a 4 and it would not shift to any other forward gear (higher or lower.) I had to put the truck in park and shut it off and restart which put it back to completely normal. This makes it seem electrical but I don’t want to just start throwing parts at it. Any Ram techs see this in the past? Thanks in advance for your help.

This isn’t electrical, i can tell you that for sure. Explanation below:

This could be a warped valve body, and since the pressure is lower in the case because the fluid is leaking out of said warped valve body the PCM is trying to overcompensate with maxed out line pressure, and then when it can’t compensate it’ll put you in limp home mode (with the trans being stuck in 4th gear with that displaying in the EVIC cluster).

What temps do you usually run? If it’s over 170-180, i’d look at the valve body as the main perpetrator in this situation.

If you have a TBV, which is a tranny thermostat, and since the fluid is very thin (probably as thin as water if not thinner) and you also have a leaky valve body, this could lead to you losing your overdrive clutches (5 & 6) that are notoriously weak in the RFE series of transmissions, especially in your 68RFE.

Run your codes, let us know what you find.


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[TheEnder]

Looking for some help on my 2014 Ram 2500 with a 6.4L and a 68RFE trans at 80,000 miles. I’ve been having some intermittent trouble. When the transmission gets up to temp it will sometimes shift down from 5th or 6th to 4th pretty hard under low load at which point it will no longer shift into 5th or 6th gear until you shut the truck off and turn it back on. Also when it is in this “mode” if you will, when accelerating from a stop it shifts really rough from first to second. I was thinking possibly time for a filter/service but tonight, I also had it get stuck in 4th gear. I had it in “manual mode” with a top gear of 6 selected to shut off the MDS and came to a stop, at which point the gear shown on the dash changed to a 4 and it would not shift to any other forward gear (higher or lower.) I had to put the truck in park and shut it off and restart which put it back to completely normal. This makes it seem electrical but I don’t want to just start throwing parts at it. Any Ram techs see this in the past? Thanks in advance for your help.

Drop the pan, let me know what you find in the pan. I’d suggest dropping the valve body + solenoid pack too, there’s 6 8MM bolts holding it. 3 on top, one on the bottom and 2 on both sides.

If it’s anything related to solenoids in your codes, replace the solenoid pack. They’re on eBay for around 200$, but if you go to the dealer i hear it could get up into the 1K region.

If it’s line pressure related, you have a 99% chance it’s a valve body issue. You need to have this fixed URGENTLY or i see a complete transmission rebuild in your near future.


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[jws123]

Sounds like you need a new valve body id start there unless u find big metal in pain,

 

[TheEnder]

Sounds like you need a new valve body.

+1 on this, stock Chrysler valve bodies are INCREDIBLY weak. The metal on the bottom plate is very thin and horribly milled, and heat absolutely kills them if they don’t die from issues from the manufacturer.

If you want me to, i can get you a list on stuff i fully recommend to get for your vehicle to make it last forever and to ensure you won’t have a valve body issue for the life of the vehicle.

(bottom directed towards OP)


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[TheEnder]

Forgot to add, if you have a way to view CVI values in the TCM that would tell you a lot about your tranny health.


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[Burla]

The first gears you loose tend to be OD with rfe, so you have a decision. Anyone with an rfe should watch these video's hemi 395 found, but anyone with a failing one should absolutely spend the time and take this in. I don't have an opinion on these brands, just watch it for the info. First one around 13 minute mark he talks about upper gears.

So the decision is do I upgrade valve body and hope it was the pistons or leakage, a possibility for sure, but if I do this I wont be getting credit for that if I have to get a new tranny. Generally speaking new trans come with VB, so if you need a new tranny that is kinda wasted. The good news if you get a new transmission, you can make sure you get one built to address the weaknesses you learn about in those video's. Get an upgraded pan for sure with a drain plug for easy changes- not dorman, metal thread upgrade, and I like redline c+ for a fluid. Once you make the decision, take a chance on VB or bite the bullet and get trans, maybe we can give more specific advice.

 

[Burla]

filter options

metal threads with the hex are the best, they fit nice and tight.

Trust me filter drama has killed some rfe's. The plastic threads have killed two ram forum members over the years that I know if, I have no doubt that number is much larger. The sump filter is absolutely great, easy to attach right, make sure you either get oem gasket out, or re-use it in place. I'd recommend a synthetic canister filter, they will last tens of thousands of miles, but paper ones go stiff after a few miles and don't filter anything. Knock off the paint if you use the synthetic filters mentioned in that thread, many of us run them.



If that plastic piece on filter breaks, so does your rfe. Over tighten the filter it snaps or cracks, under tighten it it leaks, to much pressure is can break. Plastic thread, just a stupid idea.

 

[GsRAM]

filter options

metal threads with the hex are the best, they fit nice and tight.

Trust me filter drama has killed some rfe's. The plastic threads have killed two ram forum members over the years that I know if, I have no doubt that number is much larger. The sump filter is absolutely great, easy to attach right, make sure you either get oem gasket out, or re-use it in place. I'd recommend a synthetic canister filter, they will last tens of thousands of miles, but paper ones go stiff after a few miles and don't filter anything. Knock off the paint if you use the synthetic filters mentioned in that thread, many of us run them.



If that plastic piece on filter breaks, so does your rfe. Over tighten the filter it snaps or cracks, under tighten it it leaks, to much pressure is can break. Plastic thread, just a stupid idea.

Hi Burla,

I have a 2017 2500 with the 6.4. Do I have a regular transmission pan filter plus a canister style filter on my 66rfe? Are they both located in the pan? Is that where the problematic plastic **** is located? If so where can I source a metal one like you pictured?

Do you reccomend only mopar OEM filters for the trans?

What are your thoughts about using,valvoline max life full synthetic at in my truck when it comes time to change it?

I will hit the 4 yr mark on 12/30/20 and just over 14k miles so I will be servicing it in the spring of 2022 regardless of mileage. Maybe this spring, not sure yet.

Do you have any thoughts about removing the trans thermostat block and installing one of the aftermarket ones with no stat? I saw a video on one that may offer the metal **** along with the block.

They are for the 68rfe but would work with mine as I understand.

Thanks Sir.

 

[Andersonracing87]

Drop the pan, let me know what you find in the pan. I’d suggest dropping the valve body + solenoid pack too, there’s 6 8MM bolts holding it. 3 on top, one on the bottom and 2 on both sides.

If it’s anything related to solenoids in your codes, replace the solenoid pack. They’re on eBay for around 200$, but if you go to the dealer i hear it could get up into the 1K region.

If it’s line pressure related, you have a 99% chance it’s a valve body issue. You need to have this fixed URGENTLY or i see a complete transmission rebuild in your near future.


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I have zero transmission codes in the system. I have not had a chance to drop the pan yet but I am thinking this points to pressure and the valve body?

 

[Burla]

Hi Burla,

I have a 2017 2500 with the 6.4. Do I have a regular transmission pan filter plus a canister style filter on my 66rfe? Are they both located in the pan? Is that where the problematic plastic **** is located? If so where can I source a metal one like you pictured?

Do you reccomend only mopar OEM filters for the trans?

What are your thoughts about using,valvoline max life full synthetic at in my truck when it comes time to change it?

I will hit the 4 yr mark on 12/30/20 and just over 14k miles so I will be servicing it in the spring of 2022 regardless of mileage. Maybe this spring, not sure yet.

Do you have any thoughts about removing the trans thermostat block and installing one of the aftermarket ones with no stat? I saw a video on one that may offer the metal **** along with the block.

They are for the 68rfe but would work with mine as I understand.

Thanks Sir.

If you are talking about the thermo valve, yes bypass that, even if you need a warmer on the trans pan. There are many reason that will fail, flow is **** and they can jam up killing your rfe, plus makes trans run hot.

I'm not sure what pan you have, but yes your truck rfe's is just like everyone elses as far as changing fluid.

Yes oem mopar sump filter, your filter are accessible when pan is down, they attach to the bottom of the transmission. You will see plastic "****" when you take off canister filter.

Use whatever atf4 you like, but it needs to be atf, the maxlife multiuse had a viscosity to thin for the rfe. Look at a stat sheet, the operating viscosity should be in the 7's.

 

[GsRAM]

If you are talking about the thermo valve, yes bypass that, even if you need a warmer on the trans pan. There are many reason that will fail, flow is **** and they can jam up killing your rfe, plus makes trans run hot.

I'm not sure what pan you have, but yes your truck rfe's is just like everyone elses as far as changing fluid.

Yes oem mopar sump filter, your filter are accessible when pan is down, they attach to the bottom of the transmission. You will see plastic "****" when you take off canister filter.

Use whatever atf4 you like, but it needs to be atf, the maxlife multiuse had a viscosity to thin for the rfe. Look at a stat sheet, the operating viscosity should be in the 7's.

Awesome! Great info, thanks brother!

 

[TheEnder]

I have zero transmission codes in the system. I have not had a chance to drop the pan yet but I am thinking this points to pressure and the valve body?

How didn’t you have any codes for the tranny in the TCM? That NEVER happens, and if it does, it’s a low chance. Any stored codes? There HAS to be a code or else your truck wouldn’t be screwing up. Look into a replacement valve body.


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