DODGE RAM TRX KIT

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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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Turning out really nice
Thanks!

I'm looking at these other items to complete the look. I'm seriously thinking of going Black with 2 gold stripes like on my Daytona. I would get black & gold rims to go with it if I go that way.

Grill Big Horn Gloss Black Grille+Replacement Shell for 13-17 Dodge RAM 1500 | eBay

Roll pan Street Scene 950-70504 Urethane Roll Pan for fits Dodge Ram 09-10 | eBay

Bed cover UnderCover Lux One-Piece Truck Bed Cover | UnderCover Truck Bed Covers (undercoverinfo.com)
 
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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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That looks good, just take your time and don't rush it
Thanks! That's good advice. One thing I will point out about the install is when you install the fenders first to fit the stock hood is the back of the hood hits. So I trimmed the drivers side to clear. Bad move. I left the passengers side alone even though it was rubbing. When I put the hood on, the passengers side was fine. The drivers side will need some work to close the gap.
 

Midknight

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Looking good! I can see the extra gap in the aerial photo when comparing to the other side. Is this something you can fix or body shop?
 
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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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Looking good! I can see the extra gap in the aerial photo when comparing to the other side. Is this something you can fix or body shop?
Thanks! Yes, it's an easy fix. The headlight extensions will need some TLC as well.
 

LoadedExpressRam

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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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Trying my best to get the rear panels on this weekend but I had to work today and I have an event to attend at 1:00 tomorrow.
So today while at work I decided to get a jump on it and remove the plastic flairs, wheel well liners & bedside caps. I'll be picking up a spot weld removal tool today to make the job easier and done right. If the tool works quick and I feel I can do this in 3-4 hours, I'll go for it. If not I'll get as much as I can get done and finish next weekend.


TRX Rear Prep 1.jpg TRX Rear Prep 2.jpg TRX Rear Prep 3.jpg TRX Rear Prep 4.jpg
 
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MOPAR78

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Took a closer look this morning and this will be a several hour job. From what I could see there are 4 bolts holding the bed down. 4 bolts on the bumper. It looks like the tailgate can stay mounted. The tires will need to be removed to get to several spot welds. There looks to be roughly 50 spot welds on each fender. The tool works like a champ which should save some time and aggravation. I'll need to pick up some self tapping screws, back up bits and sealant.

Spot weld cutter.jpg
 

JF19Longhorn

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I hate popping spot welds.. though the bit and panel separator bars make a world of difference.

I'd say I get 30-40 spot welds per bit on the 69 Mustang we're restoring. So make sure you have spares.
 
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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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I hate popping spot welds.. though the bit and panel separator bars make a world of difference.

I'd say I get 30-40 spot welds per bit on the 69 Mustang we're restoring. So make sure you have spares.
Thanks for the info. I'm going to get another one today. They have flappable cutters so 2 should do the job. I'm going toget several pilot bits as well. Nothing worse than being in the middle of a job and having to go fetch another part.

I had a 70 model Mustang but love the look of the 69"s. What motor are you going back with and does it have the shaker hood?
 

JF19Longhorn

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Originally she had a 351 2bbl, I had a poked and stroked 408 Clvd motor built, backed by a toploader 4spd. Popped that motor decades ago.. I blame the builder, but I didn't have the coin at 19yrs old to prove it. A new house, two babies, and other hobbies later and she's been sitting in one garage or another since. My now 18 yr old son wants to restore it. So we started tearing it down a year or so ago and it's been a very slow going process. Found the Trq boxes and floor pans were shot.. so we're in the process of doing that now.

My son wants to go full modern suspension kits front and rear, eliminating the shock towers, and dropping in a Coyote motor. I'm not sure myself. I'm thinking another built pushrod motor, but with fuel injection this time. I don't feel like dealing with carbs anymore.
 
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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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Originally she had a 351 2bbl, I had a poked and stroked 408 Clvd motor built, backed by a toploader 4spd. Popped that motor decades ago.. I blame the builder, but I didn't have the coin at 19yrs old to prove it. A new house, two babies, and other hobbies later and she's been sitting in one garage or another since. My now 18 yr old son wants to restore it. So we started tearing it down a year or so ago and it's been a very slow going process. Found the Trq boxes and floor pans were shot.. so we're in the process of doing that now.

My son wants to go full modern suspension kits front and rear, eliminating the shock towers, and dropping in a Coyote motor. I'm not sure myself. I'm thinking another built pushrod motor, but with fuel injection this time. I don't feel like dealing with carbs anymore.
Sounds like a jam up build! If you drop that Coyote motor in it you might want to get him some road coarse track time to get use to the power! lol. Them Stangs are known for swapping ends quickly! Good luck with the build!
 
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