power issue with 09 Ram and sub amp

[Voodoochi1d]

Ok so I adjusted gains, and checked impedance of Subs.
Here is the wiring diagram for them.

The wiring is all good, no loose connections, grounds are tight as well. The voltage gauge stays constant at 12.5 to 13v for about 15 to 20 minutes, and as long as I keep volume on radio below 15, the voltage gauge never drops below 11 on long deep repetitive bass hits. Once the RF P500-2 warms up (but never been to hot to touch, warm is better description) and the voltage gauge starts to move up and down during bass hits, the amp will shut off (protection light blinks for a sec) and then turns back on. No sound from subs during this time.
Again this only happens when amp is warm, volume is above 15 and bass remote is turned up more than 50%.

What can I do to upgrade or better the charging/power system in my 09 Ram?
Upgrade battery, do I need to replace the alt? Checked and I have a 150 amp alternator.

Does anyone know if the Ram has some sort of regulation that attempts to keep voltage at or around 12.8V? That would explain why when I press on gas pedal, I also see this voltage drop for a split sec. Add the Sub Amp drawing power, and the voltage drops bad when driving and playing system loud.

I am running 4 gauge RF 100% copper cable, ground is very clean and has no wiggle or movement.
battery, fusebox, and alternator cable has been upgraded to 0 gauge power and ground.
the 4 channel amp does not have any issue, just the sub amp.

Any suggestions?

 

[Voodoochi1d]

Bump....
Added new info to thread.
anyone with 4th Gen Ram, and aftermarket amps. please reply about any upgrades that you have made to battery or charging system.

Also if you have had voltage drops from Amps, what did you do to fix.

 

[Five.SevenlExpress]

turn your bass / levels higher in your radio and turn your amp down on the bass.... Your pushing the amp too much and its going into protection because of low voltage it requires.

I had the same issue.. had to get another battery.

http://www.kinetikpower.com/2009/default.asp

If that doesnt help im sure your amp needs an upgrade

 

[jhemi]

use multi meter and check actual impedance on each sub could also be a voice coil goin bad, sumtimes when a voice coil is going out when it warms up the impedance will change if to drastic it will put amp into protect mode, just a thought, check when cold and then again when amp cuts out

 

[Voodoochi1d]

bad voice coil is something I had not thought of.
Thanks
Will do.

Also looking into batteries and worse case H/O alternators

 

[quietpeen]

i can imagine that is annoying.....let us know how you make out

 

[smiley]

Do you have a capacitor? If not that will make a big difference.

 

[Voodoochi1d]

I had a problem with my PAC Audio module, AOEM-CHRY3 I think is model... anyway, I had to hack that harness up, and now seems to be working. Source was being shared on front and rear right side, while front left and rear left was separated. I also had to remove the factory 3.5" speakers, they were causing clipping best I can tell. I will replace with something that can handle the power.

My next quest is to purchase a Kenetic Battery to install under rear seat with Subs.
I also plan on running new speaker wires to each door. currently I have tapped into factory wires, and do not like it. I started on Sunday, and spent more than an hour on the rear driver side door before i gave up trying to get 12 gauge cable thru the doors rubber boot.

If anyone has better pics or suggestions please let me know how anyone gets the wire thru these rubber boots into the doors. I almost got angry enough to cut the rubber and use it like a loom, but I know patients and help from someone here will prevail.

 

[Graygoose]

A cap wont do anything really. How big of a power wire do you have to the amp? If the power wire is too small, power can only flow as good as the wire running it. I'd always suggest replacing the factory wire from amp to door/sub speakers. Factory is barely enough to feed the power the HU does, much less anymore power.

 

[Voodoochi1d]

GrayGoose is correct. power wire could cause many issues, also u need new wire to each door from amp.

These trucks also do not seem to like heavy power draw on factory battery. Suggest getting new / better battery.

 

[smiley]

GrayGoose is correct. power wire could cause many issues, also u need new wire to each door from amp.

These trucks also do not seem to like heavy power draw on factory battery. Suggest getting new / better battery.

A cap will help, it will store power and make it available to the amp at all times. Sure I have not installed my audio items in my 4th Gen but 4th Gen battery is an AGM battery with like 140 Reserve capacity and a good battery. To me it sounds like the amp is too weak for sub. Or maybe the consistancy of power is not there. The cables used are more than ample. Not likely power issue at this point. Unless as stated the truck can't keep up with what is being drawn. The proper way to wire a sub is to have a cap period. Had a system in like 5 vehicles all did better with cap than without. It stops the leeching effect where the lights dim with the music and is a good idea even if it ended up not fixing the issue.

What is RMS for amp? RMS for the sub? Is it one or two subs? What size subs.

$miley

 

[Voodoochi1d]

my amp is Rockford Fosgate Punch P500-2 and subs are MTX 4510 DVC @4ohm each vc. Amp sees 4ohm load running mono delivering rated 500 RMS to both subs. Subs are rated at 300 RMS each.
This must be power issue Im having cause when my bass cuts off and Amp hits protection, I see my voltage is at or below 10 volts.
I have 0 gauge BIG 3 upgrade, and 0 Gauge to Fuse then 4 Gauge into Distribution block then 4 Gauge to each amp.
My mids/highs amp is also RF Punch, P400-4. Power is never an issue on this amp, as I believe it never tries to draw as much power as the 500-2. Both have separate 4 Gauge grounds at less than 12" long.
All my cables are RF 100% copper oversized 4 Gauge.

I am hoping that a single battery (Kinetic 2500) will resolve, and I do not have to also install Kinetic 1400 under rear seat with Sub enclosure.

I am very surprised that 900 watts has such an affect on the factory power system.

 

[smiley]

Just hook directly to battery when you buy it then you know.

Try hooking up only one sub. That amp should be bigger. RMS of amp should be equal or greater than RMS of subs. Not enough amp power.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CblMXcc2ToH/learn/reviews/20030722/subwoofer_power.html

$miley

 

[Voodoochi1d]

birth sheet of the amp states the amp actually put out over 700 RMS. RF rates these amps low, at 500 RMS.

 

[smiley]

Okay is it like the one below? If so you will have to bridge to get 500 RMS.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2204_Rockford-Fosgate-P5002.html

I am just trying to help as it really should work if the amp has enough power. I mean with the wiring you used that should be able to power anything as it is so thick.
$miley

 

[Graygoose]

A cap is just a smaller storage facility for sudden burst on voltage spikes. When happering the system, all your doing is re-charging it. Overall, it wont help the effects of running down to 10v-11v. Thats when the amp will send a clipped signal and cause damage to the coil. So to me, forget the cap and get a better battery. Kinetik of XS Power make great batteries.

With that little of power, it's weird, I dont see you should have any power issue if you have 0 gauge.....

 

[smiley]

A cap is just a smaller storage facility for sudden burst on voltage spikes. When happering the system, all your doing is re-charging it. Overall, it wont help the effects of running down to 10v-11v. Thats when the amp will send a clipped signal and cause damage to the coil. So to me, forget the cap and get a better battery. Kinetik of XS Power make great batteries. Upgrade speaker wire and power wire from batt to amplifier. I suspect that's your issue.

Agree to disagree but a cap prevents issues you are explaining. It is means of storage as is a battery but it makes it readily available to the amp. Good luck with the system.

$miley

 

[Voodoochi1d]

Rockford Fosgate P500-2 1000W Max, Punch Series Compact 2-Channel

this is my amp. punch P500-2.
More than enough power for the 2 MTX 4510 subs. Amp is bridged mono @ 4ohms.


Greygoose, i agree. Shouldnt see this kind of power issue, but all of my cables have been inspected by audio shop. Im using 4 gauge RF 100% copper from amp power, and 0 gauge for big 3 upgrade. All grounds are solid and have been placed on bare metal. I also have used 3 screws in each ground tap to make sure they dont get loose.

Im going to order my Kinetic battery.

 

[Graygoose]

Agree to disagree but a cap prevents issues you are explaining. It is means of storage as is a battery but it makes it readily available to the amp. Good luck with the system.

$miley

Cool, just from my experience caps are band aids, will never supply a system that drops to 10-11v.

Rockford Fosgate P500-2 1000W Max, Punch Series Compact 2-Channel

this is my amp. punch P500-2.
More than enough power for the 2 MTX 4510 subs. Amp is bridged mono @ 4ohms.


Greygoose, i agree. Shouldnt see this kind of power issue, but all of my cables have been inspected by audio shop. Im using 4 gauge RF 100% copper from amp power, and 0 gauge for big 3 upgrade. All grounds are solid and have been placed on bare metal. I also have used 3 screws in each ground tap to make sure they dont get loose.

Im going to order my Kinetic battery.

Yup, if your getting that kinda drop back there AT the amp, there's too jmuch draw on your battery, which easily could just have a dead cell, and any surge will drop it out of the 13.8v range.
But dont do it anymore until you find the issue. That low voltage, amp isnt putting the power out, and its sending DC voltage to the coils...

where is the gain and bass boost set?