Wiring lighting switches?

[seank]

Hello, I've wired in some lights (fog lights, reverse lights, and bumper light bar), and need help with the switch. I've utilized wiring method B on the right in the first photo, and as I tended, the bottom backlight on the switches is only coming on when the switches are turned on. However the problem I am having is that the top backlight on the switches are on constantly, and I'd like them to only come on when the vehicle is running (second photo).

Is there a way to wire this switch so that the top backlight on the switch only comes on when the vehicle is turned on, and the bottom backlight only comes on when the switch is turned on?

What I was going to do, was disconnect the relay kit's ring terminals from the + battery terminal and connect it to an accessory switched power source using a micro fuse tap (3rd photo). Will this be okay? The fog lights only have a 3.06 amp draw, and the reverse lights are around 4.17 amps, so I was going to run two off of one switched 25 amp micro fuse slot and tap it with a 10 amp fuse for the accessories.

However, micro fuses only go up to 30amps, and the draw on the bumper light bar is slightly higher (33.3 amps, and the inline fuse on the relay kit is a 40A fuse). My next consideration was to tap one of the cartrige fuses (4th photo), which are 30-50 amps, but I can't find a tap kit for them, is there a better option?

EDIT: I used a circut tester to check all of the 40 amp (and higher) cartridge fuses and the only one that was remote on/off was for the hvac blower fan, so AC would have to be running for it to work. No dice with the cartrige fuses, and micro fuses are too low of amperage. So I'm kinda stuck...

Any input/help would be much appreciated, thank you ahead of time!!!

 

[Black-Wolf]

Hello, I've wired in some lights (fog lights, reverse lights, and bumper light bar), and need help with the switch. I've utilized wiring method B on the right in the first photo, and as I tended, the bottom backlight on the switches is only coming on when the switches are turned on. However the problem I am having is that the top backlight on the switches are on constantly, and I'd like them to only come on when the vehicle is running (second photo).

Is there a way to wire this switch so that the top backlight on the switch only comes on when the vehicle is turned on, and the bottom backlight only comes on when the switch is turned on?

What I was going to do, was disconnect the relay kit's ring terminals from the + battery terminal and connect it to an accessory switched power source using a micro fuse tap (3rd photo). Will this be okay? The fog lights only have a 3.06 amp draw, and the reverse lights are around 4.17 amps, so I was going to run two off of one switched 25 amp micro fuse slot and tap it with a 10 amp fuse for the accessories.

However, micro fuses only go up to 30amps, and the draw on the bumper light bar is slightly higher (33.3 amps, and the inline fuse on the relay kit is a 40A fuse). My next consideration was to tap one of the cartrige fuses (4th photo), which are 30-50 amps, but I can't find a tap kit for them, is there a better option?

EDIT: I used a circut tester to check all of the 40 amp (and higher) cartridge fuses and the only one that was remote on/off was for the hvac blower fan, so AC would have to be running for it to work. No dice with the cartrige fuses, and micro fuses are too low of amperage. So I'm kinda stuck...

Any input/help would be much appreciated, thank you ahead of time!!!

You need to tap in to a fuse that is only on when the ignition is in ACC or RUN. Tapping into a battery supplied fuse that has constant power isn't going to achieve what you want. You can tap into the wire for the cigar lighter if you'd prefer - esp. if it's not really being used. Ideally, you don't tap off of already populated fuses or accessories. There are two "upfitter" fuse spots that should be empty and a bunch that are populated but not necessarily in use. Fuse 92 (on Gen 4 models) is the one that is only on when your ignition is in ACC or RUN. You should also be able to chase the indicated wire back into the cab and locate its end point at the UPFITTER ACCESS to physically connect there rather than tap into an already dedicated wire. You can also use one of the fuses at 5, 8, 9, or 37. Based on what you're trying to do, you'll pull less than 10 AMPs total assuming that the AMP draws you listed are "total" draws for all the lights on at the same time - so 3.06 + 4.17 = 7.23 AMPs. You can safely run off a 10 AMP fuse. You could also safely use a 12.5 and MAYBE a 15 AMP fuse, but anything else above that is overkill and might actually be hazardous because, if an excessive current draw is pulled (say, one of your lights shorts out and starts drawing 15 AMPS, you might not blow a 20, 25, or 50 AMP fuse and the light could catch on fire.) The point of a fuse is to blow once too much current is pulled for the intended purpose. Wiring has to be the correct gauge too. To thin and it'll be prone to melt or catch fire! Lastly, note that AMPerage draw is always "steady state" draw - meaning that it's not the peak draw. Peak occurs any time you first turn on a device, and is typically a few amps higher than steady state - especially in devices with any kind of electric motor, until they get spun up - and sometimes in lights until they warm up. While most fuses can handle a momentary surge at startup, it's best to make sure they're standard fuses, and not "fast-blow". In some applications, there are "slo-blow" fuses - usually for high-amperage motors that take a while to spin up.