Did you ever get this issue fixed? I’m having the same problem now and I can’t seem to pinpoint the problem.
The single most important thing to consider in these is oil. [I'll get to that] But my first question would be how often do you change your oil?? Does it "Loosely" coincide with your "VVT issues"??
I have researched a simliar issue for over a year and here is what I found:
1) Based on your description I would say my number ONE guess is your mechanic might not be using MOPAR OEM VVT solenoid?? (OCV solenoid) The Cheap knockoffs are junk. (could be why it seems like every 5 months it croaks)
2) My second guess would be debris (gunk or metal shavings) in the oil channels builds up - clogs the oil filter and is forced past the oil filter's bypass valve. Has it ever run super low on oil or gone way too long without an oil change? Did you have the cam and/or lifter replaced after a "HEMI tick or bad lifter? If so, you might want to consider a "Bilstein Engine flush". Ask a local Pep Boys if they have this machine - or maybe (Uggghhh... gonna say it... Jiffy Lube) that is safer than running engine cleaners such as Seafoam, Techron, etc. which can cause problems with engine seals and gaskets. THEN change your VVT Solenoid before driving more than 50 miles or so.
Not using the right oil or oil filter can wreak havoc as well - I use Motorcraft
FL820-S Filter only - NOT the MOPAR one. 0W-20 or 5W-20 depending on season (0W-20 for winter in New England) I change my oil every 3,000 miles. (I know - you can go a bazillion miles on synthetic oil between changes, blah, blah, blah - but that doesn't help remove oxidation, carbon, metal bits, etc). Let them laugh at me but I'm not taking the risk with 140,000 miles [2012 RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI] - especially with all the
VVT and MDS functions that rely on proper oil pressure and clean oil galleries.
The right oil filter [MOPAR or even better, the Motorcraft
FL820-S oil filter I mentioned] plus clean oil and frequent oil changes is far more important than most people think. A good oil filter is imperitive for these engines. Every time your engine is shut off, the oil filter's ant-drainback valve keeps oil from draining out of the filter. This allows the engine to receive oil immediately upon start up. A faulty anti-drain back valve lets oil drain back into the engine.
The bypass valve in an oil filter is used when the filter is clogged due to a long period of time between replacements or when the vehicle is running at a low temperature (when the oil is cold and dense). The bypass valve is opened as a result of the pressure increase in order to increase the throughput of oil flow in the engine. The use of a bypass valve stems from the thought that dirty oil is better than no oil at all. You VVT system relies on oil flow and clean oil. VVT sytems are far more sensitive to dirty oil than even your cam and lifters are - although poorly lubricated cam and lifters can result in more catastriphic consequences.
3) Wiring issue that is intermittent. This can cause people to shoot the part$ cannon at it. Here is what I've seen people replace instead of properly diagnosing a wiring issue when having problems with timing (VVT particularly):
VVT Solenoid
Timing chain and/or guides
Cam sensor and/or crank sensor
VVT Actuator
PCM - replaced or reprogrammed
Cam and or Lifters
MDS solenoids
I hope this helps.