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Grab the back of the heat shields,if they wiggle with a tug,odds are you have broken bolts.It's usually the back bolts that hold the heat shield on that break.When I get back home (another 1000 miles), I am going to look closely at the exhaust manifolds and flanges to the cats to see if there are any black marks indicating leaks. Otherwise, I am at a loss for why the tick is on startup. Done 3 oil changes since cam/lifter just to make sure it is clean even though they pulled and cleaned the oil pan.
One thing you can do easily, get a drain plug with a magnet for the oil pan, and some magnets with an adhesive backing to put on the oil filter. If there's metal in the oil, the magnets will separate it from the oil.I do use redline 5 30. Though I’m not sure I trust cutting filters open for a bit. As I’m sure there could possible be contaminant circulating from the previous failed lifter and cam. I would assume for a few oil changes at least
Wondering if I just need to retorque my manifold bolts now that they have been through a few heat cycles
I had the motor out of the truck when I did the job. I had manifolds resurfaced. New gaskets and new heat shields and new hardware .Don't bother wasting money on new manifolds, take your old ones to a decent machine shop and get them resurfaced. I did that about 3 years ago and it solved the problem. It is only a matter of time for new manifolds to warp because the casting has internal stresses. Old manifolds, by virtue of the repeated thermal cycling, have essentially been stress releived. Resurfacing the old ones will solve the problem.
I did throw a magnet on the oil filter cause why not . Not sure if it actually worksOne thing you can do easily, get a drain plug with a magnet for the oil pan, and some magnets with an adhesive backing to put on the oil filter. If there's metal in the oil, the magnets will separate it from the oil.
Dunno but a magnetic drain plug sure works.I did throw a magnet on the oil filter cause why not . Not sure if it actually works
You by chance didn't buy the plugs and coils off Amazon or Ebay did you? If so throw the plugs in the garbage and get them from somewhere like Rock Auto or the dealer.Amazon/Ebay NGKs are Chinese knock off plugs,and i wouldn't doubt so are the coilsI've got a question on this topic... is or would it be normal to hear a ticking sound from the engine of you have misfire codes? I have replaced all 16 plugs with NGK plugs and all 8 coils with NGK coils. I have misfires but no noise. Side note, this truck (5.7L) sat up for about 3 yrs.
it doesn't really matter noise and not, you can have a wiped cam with no ticking or some ticking. It does give you a little more hope it is not a cam without noise, but it doesn't matter. Did you have mis fire codes before new items? is the mis fire just a code or poorly running as well? post all the codes.I've got a question on this topic... is or would it be normal to hear a ticking sound from the engine of you have misfire codes? I have replaced all 16 plugs with NGK plugs and all 8 coils with NGK coils. I have misfires but no noise. Side note, this truck (5.7L) sat up for about 3 yrs.
To add, if the component in question uses electrons, I would strongly recommend avoiding aftermarket parts. If you watch the auto repair videos on YouTube and talk to technicians, you'll find there's an almost universal mistrust of non-OEM electrical parts.You by chance didn't buy the plugs and coils off Amazon or Ebay did you? If so throw the plugs in the garbage and get them from somewhere like Rock Auto or the dealer.Amazon/Ebay NGKs are Chinese knock off plugs,and i wouldn't doubt so are the coils
A P0403 is an EGR control circuit fault which could lead to a P0300 random misfire code (overactive EGR). This could also explain why symptoms are more pronounced at idle.I had code P0300 and code P0403. The condition is the same before and after replacing the plugs. I purchased all my parts from RockAuto. At idle, the symptoms are more noticeable. If you accelerate the engine they are much less noticeable
I cut my filters and also use a drain plug magnet. I still have a lifter problem. I'm debating on what course of action is next ..... Rebuild the engine in my garage OR put a cam and lifters in my existing engine.One thing you can do easily, get a drain plug with a magnet for the oil pan, and some magnets with an adhesive backing to put on the oil filter. If there's metal in the oil, the magnets will separate it from the oil.
I still believe that it is an oil supply issue that is most damaging to the cam. I have a block here in my garage that lost the cam. I have been slowly studying it and the main oil gallery from the pump has a thick almost lubriplate consistency. When I pulled the front main bolt, it would not fall out when I turned the engine right side up. If I were doing any 5.7 hemi, I would first thoroughly clean all the oil galleries. We don't really know what happens to oil over time and now that the 5.7 is part of history, Chrysler doesn't care.it doesn't really matter noise and not, you can have a wiped cam with no ticking or some ticking. It does give you a little more hope it is not a cam without noise, but it doesn't matter. Did you have mis fire codes before new items? is the mis fire just a code or poorly running as well? post all the codes.