Amsoil SS 5w20 or 5w30??

[Marmay]

Not uncommon for Edmonton to be the coldest place on the planet at times Mike,

Here in ontario winter is also very cold,it can reach up to -40C with the windchill What may happen if I run them hemi with 5w30 trough the winter months,when the temp reach somedays -28 C ,is a possible damaging the engine in this days?

 

[Wild one]

Here in ontario winter is also very cold,it can reach up to -40C with the windchill What may happen if I run them hemi with 5w30 trough the winter months,when the temp reach somedays -28 C ,is a possible damaging the engine in this days?

Stick an oil pan heater on it,and you won't have any issues with 5W-30 in the winter. Plus a 125 watt oil pan heater is way cheaper to run then the 400+ watt block heater is,lol.
Put your outdoor plugs on a timer,and then you can run both the pan heater and block heater for a couple hours before you need the truck,and it'll start like it's a summer day at -30

 

[Burla]

Doesnt matter 5w30, 0w30 or even 0w20 or lower, when it is that cold you are damaging your engine without an oil warmer. Even 0w20 has a viscosity probably above 2,000 at that temp, compared to 9 at operating temps of an engine. the only protection you have at low temps is the additive package that may or may not leave plating additives on the surface for cold starts.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Right.
Back in the stone age, we needed block heaters as much to vaporize gas as flow oil.
Fuel injection and ECMs fixed that.
Man I don't miss the days of jamming a screwdriver down the carb throat to hold the choke plate open after flooding.
Combined with $hitty batteries and low energy ignition, you only had a couple cranks shot at getting a pop.

I guess it's like talking about horseshoes to today's youth. It was only a couple decades ago so lots of us crossed both eras.

 

[Dan Topp]

I was being kind to you when you made the wrong statement because obviously you werent reading uoa's when made the statement you thought 5w30 SS was stable, it wasn't and I knew it wasn't. Obviously turbo's don't eat engine oil, but engines do, and turbo's are more engine rpm and dilution. Now that oil went from 10.3 to 8's with no dilution and low wear at low miles, clearly that oil isn't stable. I let a lot slide and that is why I get in trouble, people expect me to address everything said, which ain't me

I have been on this di issue a long time ago, most if not every guy here is like why is Burla keep bringing up di in the oil thread. I saw this coming more then a decade ago, what di's reveal and how every oil on the shelf has changed because of di's. The issue is oil manu's mostly addressed the CA di issue and the cleaning issue's, but left out stay in grade viscosities. When a guy puts a 5w30 in his engine, he expects it to be a 30 weight at 4k miles driving, and most of the time that is the case, not so with amsoil SS 5w30. Maybe it will if you have a well running engine, perhaps a low rpm 4 banger, gonna be easy on any oil. And maybe even in a ram, but you need a uoa to verify. But when you chose an oil because of a NAME and not a formula, you risk a result based on feelings and not facts. 5w30 is a moderate swing winter rating to weight, but it is still significant, and when you start at 10.3 operating viscosity, you are in a sense running a 20 weight oil, it is just a matter of time.

Now, if you are in deep appreciating with the name AMSOIL, I have put great options not the SS formula that have great starting viscosities, guys that 0w30 euro amsoil is the real deal. Europe has largely ditched or adjusted to those dumb oil policies as far as formulas go. Amsoil chose to embrace API goals more so with 5w30 SS then any other of their formulas, been saying this since I saw it. The day they made the new SS they were no longer in competition with redline where they had been since redline first started. It was no longer what tradition called a boutique. Went away from calling themselves group 4 and went to API formulas that don't even resemble boutique oils. Their formulas were made for di's where redline's didn't even try for the di market. Who's smarter? Amsoil for sure, it was not smart redline could make a killer di oil if they tried. But for a hemi, who cares about di? Well you do if you are running a di friendly API oil it was made for a di and you are choosing to believe this "universal" formula is also perfect for hemi's, which is perfectly fine who am I to judge. Where amsoil still nails it is for the long interval, if you ignore the fact the viscosity isn't stable and no big deal it shears to a 20 weight, then it still is one of the best oils for a long interval, much better then redline for that.

I'm on vacation so I can ponder 100,000 rpm turbo spinning.

I have DI now with the 3.6 caddy.They spec 5-30.Ive never pimped for an oil brand just changing intervals. Now I just buy new and chuckle at the 9 -10 k herd.2nd oil at 1 k,makes me warm and comfortable.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Mazda says 5W-30 too for turbo, 5W-20 without.

I got some Blackstone bottles left, time for an SP check of PUP. Like most SP 5W-30's, I know it's low 10's vis @ 100 C, but if it shears bad, jfc.

I can't believe I'll have to run a race oil in a grocery getter from too small an engine pushed hard.

The world is coming to an end. Not sure where to post a VOA / UOA test comparison for a non-Ram engine. I could claim engine architecture is similar to Hurricane?
Or just keep it to myself if nobody's interested.

 

[Burla]

I have DI now with the 3.6 caddy.They spec 5-30.Ive never pimped for an oil brand just changing intervals. Now I just buy new and chuckle at the 9 -10 k herd.2nd oil at 1 k,makes me warm and comfortable.View attachment 549303

well 10k miles on a di is a lot different then a 10k on a hemi that doesn't have any chance of lspi. So yeah if I owned a di, I would probably be on a 4k interval at the Topps, no pun intended.

 

[Marmay]

Stick an oil pan heater on it,and you won't have any issues with 5W-30 in the winter. Plus a 125 watt oil pan heater is way cheaper to run then the 400+ watt block heater is,lol.
Put your outdoor plugs on a timer,and then you can run both the pan heater and block heater for a couple hours before you need the truck,and it'll start like it's a summer day at -30

Thanks,who will know better ,the a guy from Alberta !!

 

[Wild one]

Right.
Back in the stone age, we needed block heaters as much to vaporize gas as flow oil.
Fuel injection and ECMs fixed that.
Man I don't miss the days of jamming a screwdriver down the carb throat to hold the choke plate open after flooding.
Combined with $hitty batteries and low energy ignition, you only had a couple cranks shot at getting a pop.

I guess it's like talking about horseshoes to today's youth. It was only a couple decades ago so lots of us crossed both eras.

The good old days of pumping the skinny pedal even after it was running,lol. I forget the number of manual choke conversions i did on vehicles back then,so you didn't have to open the hood and pull the lid on the air cleaner to prop the choke open if you did flood it

 

[HEMIMANN]

3 pumps for the Pontiac 400 2bbl, 2 crank shots. That was it.

It's like saying how much hay you had to feed your draft horse to pull full sledloads of logs @ -20.
And great grandad did exactly that.

 

[Marmay]

Mazda says 5W-30 too for turbo, 5W-20 without.

I got some Blackstone bottles left, time for an SP check of PUP. Like most SP 5W-30's, I know it's low 10's vis @ 100 C, but if it shears bad, jfc.

I can't believe I'll have to run a race oil in a grocery getter from too small an engine pushed hard.

The world is coming to an end. Not sure where to post a VOA / UOA test comparison for a non-Ram engine. I could claim engine architecture is similar to Hurricane?
Or just keep it to myself if nobody's interested.

No.this world ain't come to.a end ,just different time,what's new today is different culture, we never face that before ,in 1981 I served polish national army,I was a tank driver in the age of 20 years old, T-72 , back then,if we need replace the engine,it take 36 hr to do it,in the garage where you have a hoist and all tools, but on the field,well ,no so,today for example change the engine in modern leopard tank it only take a 4 hr,unbelievable ,anyways all of us have to have a knowledge of mechanical things, today is not really so,guys bay things first and then they are surprised it so complicated and expensive ,greating from ontario,canada.

 

[2013ramboy]

I ran mobile 1 full synthetic and got 333k out of my 2013 hemi.
I did and still use a can of seafoam in crank 1-3 days before oil change and typically change oil every 4k.

Just put new motor in my 2013 and it's running great. 1 st oil change at 500 miles with full can of seafoam prior to change. Put mobile 1 5w20 with some liqu moly. Ran that for 4k more.
Did seafoam again prior to change and tried mobile 1 5w30.
I use obdmx+ dashboards to track oil and coolant temps..
I use my ears to check engine noise.
Motor oil temps run about 5deg hotter with 30w, and pressure is up a few degrees. Nothing out of norm spec.
Engine is smoother and much quieter with 30w. I am gonna stick with mobile 1 as it worked well with last motor.
I think incould have gotten way more miles out of that motor if I bought it new. I bout it with 85k miles on it and it was really sludged up. After starting seafoam treatment I eneded up clogging my ploil **** pickup tube with all the **** I cleaned out. That happened around 130k miles. Replaced oil and water pump cleaned pan and ran it for 200k more miles.
I don't think the seafoam is some sort of elixir, in fact inthink if ypunuse a good quality syn oil in either 20 or 30w and change oil every 5k you engine will last as longvas can be expected. I think allot of the where comes from excessive idle with suck low rpm. I say use whatever full synthetic ypu like and change the oil early and often. Keep it clean and don't pretend ypur driving a sports car, it's a truck.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Mobil

 

[Dan Topp]

well 10k miles on a di is a lot different then a 10k on a hemi that doesn't have any chance of lspi. So yeah if I owned a di, I would probably be on a 4k interval at the Topps, no pun intended.

4K is 3k around here but I did try to get a grand Cherokee with the devil I know but they pushed me to caddy

 

[ramffml]

Here in ontario winter is also very cold,it can reach up to -40C with the windchill What may happen if I run them hemi with 5w30 trough the winter months,when the temp reach somedays -28 C ,is a possible damaging the engine in this days?

Windchill only affects us and how fast we cool down, if it's -28C with a windchill of -40C then the truck only feels the -28C, that's the actual temperature. So in terms of fitment and clearance sizes of the engine components, -28C with 0 windchill has the same clearances at that temp as -28C with -40C windchill, the truck will just cool down quicker with the higher windchill when it's above -28, but it will not cool down below the actual temperature itself.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Here in ontario winter is also very cold, it can reach up to -40C with the windchill

Imagine having to add windchill to pretend its cold were you live

 

[Marmay]

Imagine having to add windchill to pretend its cold were you live

Ha ha o yaa is cold enough without it.

 

[ramffml]

Imagine having to add windchill to pretend its cold were you live

Got to tell you man, you guys got the short end of the stick when it comes to climate in Canada. We had snow once? Twice? last winter, may as well have skipped it completely. This spring and summer its been week after week of 20 to 28 and some beautiful sun + stunning green grass - may through october, though it does get a little dirty after the leaves are gone at the end of Oct. No mosquitos (winterpeg I"m lookin at you), no black flies, nothing but gorgeous weather.

(now where did I put down my beer....)

 

[Marmay]

Hi,a general question about the upgrade hemi lifters,as far as I know,they change the lifters around 2016,bigger needles etc,and my question is,,they change that becoze of the new oil requirements, they switch from 5w30 to 5w20,or this design have nothing to do with the thinner oil,but only with the lifter&camshaft problems? So the oil channels still the same size in the hemi engine as before they go for the 5w20?

 

[FraserBoy3]

I have been running AmsOil 5w20 SS in my 2014 5.7 with an AmsOil By-pass filter, and currently have 128,000 miles. Have never done a "Oil Change", just replace the appropriate filter(s) every spring.
I do send a sample in prior to filter change, to verify the oil is still within spec's, and it comes back clean and green every time. So once a year I replace either Main filter\1qt, or both Filtes\3qt. (I know, by now all the original oil has been replaced over the years).
As for Sludge in the motor, no such thing with AmsOil.