Anybody familiar with the newly redesigned mopar exhaust manifold?

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billyw

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I'm on my 7th exhaust leak and have been referred to a shop that has had some success. I asked what product he used, and was told there was new, totally redesigned mopar exhaust manifold. Any info out there?
 

rzr6-4

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7th? Who is doing the work? Sounds like you have SUPER warped manifolds that someone keeps putting back on. Get a set of shorty headers and never have to worry again.

I have no info on a new design. Didn't know they updated them. That must be fairly recent.
 

Daw14

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They redesigned in 2019 I believe, with a crossbar between ports. So now those crack and break. Aftermarket came out about two years ago with some new think it’s BD diesel. Said to be much beefier ,several members have bought but no long term results yet.

Plane the old ones flat and reuse ,as they have been heat cycled and won’t warp further .use remflex 6022 gaskets ,as these are some of the best available,and will help with the issue.

Or go the header route.

Seven times ? Hope it’s not all the same shop doing the work.
 

2012RAM1500RT

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Two times is my limit on fixing the same problem over, plus if I pull a OEM manifold off I'd be putting a header in it's place anyway. Time for a permanent fix or I move on. If the same thing happened a third time and I can't fix it, it's going to be someone else's problem.
 
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billyw

billyw

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3 times on the drivers side in the last year. At least it was under shop warranty. The last time they did grind it flat and added slightly longer bolts. They said even with locktite, the bolts were coming loose. Right after that, the passenger side went again.
 

CanuckRam1313

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I would say find another shop to start with.
Using the correct bolts is important.
When my stock manifolds took a dump I replaced them with shorty headers (I didn't want all the steps of going to long tubes, even though they are better for HP and TQ gains).
Look at AFE shorty headers. They are a direct bolt on upgrade.
I personally went the the SRT gaskets and the SRT hardware. Never had an issue afterwards.
 

Ken226

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Same shop? Because that sounds weird as ****.

There are many of us here who have been dealing with this problem for many years. Both the problem and the permanent solutions are long known.


If your shop used locktite, longer bolts, and says they "loosened", then you definitely need a different shop. None of those things are correct solutions. They are either lying, or not competent.

Or, read this thread then fix them yourself permanently.

 

Daw14

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Find a new shop ,do not let them touch your truck again unless you want more repairs. They are full of it , and or incompetent.
 

Brrielly

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I would be looking down the line from the manifold. Is the exhaust secured with all the proper hangers? Either way, find a new shop and get some remflex gaskets and proper bolts.
 

Just Bob

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billyw,
Just get a set of KOOKS shorty headers - expensive, but your ECU can tune them as they don't move the stock O2 sensor location. They don't leak at the flanges, nor the header pipe cone, and give great midrange torque over 3000+ rpm and hp for towing and are not loud. Sleeper stuff that works. Have the shop heat cycle them to full operating temp, let them cool, then retorque to 13 ft/lbs and you are good. For the life of the truck. If they warp, KOOKS will replace them for the original owner. I used the KOOKS gaskets that come with the headers.
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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Time to go to AFE shorty headers or at least the BD manifolds. These are built much better and wont warp or crack. Message me if you would like a quote.
 
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