Battery Issue?

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guitarx9002

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I woke up this morning..preworkout rolling in me ready to go to the gym. Truck would not start. Just a click and then. Cluster came on and said "service shifter". After that, the next few times I attempted to turn the truck on and that message turned off. The truck then got stuck in the "Run" mode and went between that and "ACC" mode...could not turn it off.

I Was able to get the battery jumped and then it started to recharge. I took it to Autozone and they tested the charger, the battery and the alternator and said it was all OK. Turned the truck off and on a few times there, no problem.

A few hours later after putting the battery on a charger, it was fully charged and then I went to get a carwash. Truck started fine then. After getting home immediately after turning the truck off, I attempted to turn it back on and it will not turn on.

Showing 10.7v on the dash cluster.

Anyone think it is just simply the battery? anyone been through anything similar? Can't trust AutoZone.
 

CamperMike

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I woke up this morning..preworkout rolling in me ready to go to the gym. Truck would not start. Just a click and then. Cluster came on and said "service shifter". After that, the next few times I attempted to turn the truck on and that message turned off. The truck then got stuck in the "Run" mode and went between that and "ACC" mode. Was able to get the battery jumped and then it recharged on their own. I took it to Autozone and they tested the charger, the battery and the alternator and said it was all OK.

A few hours later after manually recharing the battery, it was fully charged and then I went to get a carwash. Truck started fine then. After getting home immediately after turning the truck off, I attempted to turn it back on and it will not turn on.

Showing 10.7v on the dash cluster.

Anyone think it is just simply the battery? anyone been through anything similar? Can't trust AutoZone.
Yes it is just the battery most likely. That is more or less how mine died.
 

Mb7640

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I woke up this morning..preworkout rolling in me ready to go to the gym. Truck would not start. Just a click and then. Cluster came on and said "service shifter". After that, the next few times I attempted to turn the truck on and that message turned off. The truck then got stuck in the "Run" mode and went between that and "ACC" mode. Was able to get the battery jumped and then it recharged on their own. I took it to Autozone and they tested the charger, the battery and the alternator and said it was all OK.

A few hours later after manually recharing the battery, it was fully charged and then I went to get a carwash. Truck started fine then. After getting home immediately after turning the truck off, I attempted to turn it back on and it will not turn on.

Showing 10.7v on the dash cluster.

Anyone think it is just simply the battery? anyone been through anything similar? Can't trust AutoZone.
I would not trust autozone if you have access to a mulitmeter check the voltage yourself. If its under 12 after sitting its time for a battery. How old is the battery? Also what does the voltage say when running? Should be around 14 or 14.5
 
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guitarx9002

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Voltage is about 14.5 - the. battery is OEM from 2020
 
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guitarx9002

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I would not trust autozone if you have access to a mulitmeter check the voltage yourself. If its under 12 after sitting its time for a battery. How old is the battery? Also what does the voltage say when running? Should be around 14 or 14.5
Voltage is about 14.5 - the. battery is OEM from 2020
 

Wild one

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turkeybird56

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OP time for new battery. Get a AGM battery. Yer description all says Battery especially if when running u got 14.5 V. But when starting low voltage battery dead: Battery has bad cell or short, TIME FOR A NEW ONE.

All lights will light up, but with 10.7 V, forget it. OP, take the plunge, U need a new battery, period.
 
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turkeybird56

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Buy yourself one of these old school toaster battery testers.They're still one of the best battery load testers a home mechanic can have,far better then the newer digital testers most places are using.They're cheap enough every home DIY'er should have one.

OP: Ditto on the Old Style toaster checkers, those Analogue a lot better than digital, just a long time in use.
 

turkeybird56

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Assuming that 14.5 volts is with the engine running, and that simply means the alternator is working like it should and producing 14.5 volts.
OP told wat needed, guess wait and see if he jumps and changes out dat battery, hee hee.
 

Ken226

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Voltage is about 14.5 - the. battery is OEM from 2020

The no-load voltage doesn't mean much. If AutoZone just checked the voltage without putting it under load, then their test wasn't worth bothering with.

The toaster style load testers mentioned above will tell you what you need to know.
 

StateOfMind

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So a little detour here, my wife was at a yard sale, picked up something mechanical, paid a couple bucks for it, and gave it to me to see if it would be anything useful. Heck yeah, it was an old analog load tester. I've used it in place of my digital for the past decade. Check offerup or FM and you might grab one for next to nothing
 

mcv1

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I'll also vote that the cause is likely a bad battery. However, my drama was not effectively diagnosed even with an analog load tester. At least one of my factory batteries had an intermittent INTERNAL short. I didn't think that was possible. I had failed to find it with my own parasitic draw tests, or a load tester. I wasted time at 4 dealerships trying to track down a phantom electrical draw that caused me to have periodic dead batteries at least a dozen times (so dead that a lithium jump starter wouldn't recognize that it was connected!). Finally the 4th dealer documented a random, intermittent short that would draw more than 2 amps! Stellantis only covered replacing the one confirmed defective battery which seemed to solve the problem for a few months. But I eventually broke down and replaced both out-of-pocket with zero problems after that (18 months and 30k miles ago). Of course, I now wished I had just purchased the batteries from the beginning, but I was chasing what I mistakenly believed was a more involved phantom problem with the truck. If I were the OP with those symptoms, I'd replace the battery regardless of diagnostics suggesting it is fine. But I do agree that the toaster style tester is much better than a digital zero load.
 

Egglefield

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I have a 2022 3500 and just returned from a 3500 mile trip pulling a fifth wheel. A few hours after I returned I start the pickup and all was fine. The next day it would not start. No warnings or lights went on. Boosted to start. Stopped it and restarted but then again the next day it would not start. Dealers changed both batteries on warranty saying they both failed the test. I don’t understand why! Glad it was still on warranty.
 

yatesfamily08

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I have had the same problem 7 yimes including today. The first time I had it towed to the Lakeport. CA, RAM dealorship. Their customer service desk person told me, "You need to lock your truck when you park it or it will continue to drain the battery. Doesn't make sense to me, but, hey, they are the experts. Right?
 

62Blazer

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I have had the same problem 7 yimes including today. The first time I had it towed to the Lakeport. CA, RAM dealorship. Their customer service desk person told me, "You need to lock your truck when you park it or it will continue to drain the battery. Doesn't make sense to me, but, hey, they are the experts. Right?
Very much doubt that is the case!
 

turkeybird56

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That Dealership throwing a smoke grenade. @yatesfamily08
Boy don’t take yer truck there wat a bunch of bs.
 
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