Blackstone oil report back

[Highway]

Got my report from blackstone back today. I had used Lubeguard this time around.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Good report. Low copper, sleeve bearings well lubricated.
You'd lower iron if you went to 5W-30

 

[Shawn Burns]

You inspired me to get mine tested. I've always planned on keeping my truck for a long time. I suppose prior to making that decision, I should ensure that it isn't eating itself up internally first. Did it cost you $35?

 

[tron67j]

Is there any other test for a gas 6.4 beyond the basic test needed? Wondering what others do.

 

[Highway]

You inspired me to get mine tested. I've always planned on keeping my truck for a long time. I suppose prior to making that decision, I should ensure that it isn't eating itself up internally first. Did it cost you $35?

Yes sir $35

 

[Burla]

Got my report from blackstone back today. I had used Lubeguard this time around.

Do you have a lifetime warranty?

Hemi's are high wear engines, but imo for 139k miles on truck, that iron is too high to not do something about it. There is a glaring thing showing, that viscosity like hemiman said. I'd consider moving to a stout 5w30, 0w30 or even 0w40 super class oil. That additive package looks middling for sure, not PP high mileage? Do you not use synthetic oil? I have not seen zinc that low for some time. If you want some ideas we are open for business over there, if not it's ok generally this report looks good, it's just that it can be better and fairly easy to achieve. Some synthetics are not much more.

Join syn thread to further the conversation.

 

[Highway]

Do you have a lifetime warranty?

Hemi's are high wear engines, but imo for 139k miles on truck, that iron is too high to not do something about it. There is a glaring thing showing, that viscosity like hemiman said. I'd consider moving to a stout 5w30, 0w30 or even 0w40 super class oil. That additive package looks middling for sure, not PP high mileage? Do you not use synthetic oil? I have not seen zinc that low for some time. If you want some ideas we are open for business over there, if not it's ok generally this report looks good, it's just that it can be better and fairly easy to achieve. Some synthetics are not much more.

Join syn thread to further the conversation.

Burla,
i used Pennzoil platinum high mileage full synthetic 5w/20 Along with a bottle of lubeguard. I will move up to 5w/30 next oil change. Motor is good and quiet at starup and running temps. Throw some ideas at me im all about learning even at 63

 

[Curmudgeon]

Burla,
i used Pennzoil platinum high mileage full synthetic 5w/20 Along with a bottle of lubeguard. I will move up to 5w/30 next oil change. Motor is good and quiet at starup and running temps. Throw some ideas at me im all about learning even at 63

I think you are just ahead of me. My 2014 5.7L is sitting right at 106,000. Never any tick, nice quiet motor, and want it to stay that way.
Just a month ago I did an oil change and filled with PUP (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) 5W-20, and no Lubeguard, but used a Royal Purple 20-820 oversize filter. I'm figuring the 5W-20 would work well Pennsylvania winter. In about 3000 miles I plan to do another change, this time Redline 5W-30 and another RP 20-820 filter for the summer? Probably be a 5,000 mile OCI on the Redline.

I haven't decided on the Lubeguard. I will have it on hand but want to run the Redline by itself for a while.

 

[Burla]

Burla,
i used Pennzoil platinum high mileage full synthetic 5w/20 Along with a bottle of lubeguard. I will move up to 5w/30 next oil change. Motor is good and quiet at starup and running temps. Throw some ideas at me im all about learning even at 63

It seams like pennzoil screwed the pooch on the formula that time, zinc should be up near 700, especially with a high mileage oil. I generally like that oil and I would say go for 5w30 same thing and see where you end up. I for sure would go lubegard again, if you see the phos between those runs lubegard run was good phos which is very protective with the moly and zinc you do have. If you stay at 5k interval I would not bother with tbn as you have been doing, good there. But eventhoug this is 0w20 your numbers should have been close, as you see no boron as well also troubling. So tthat was recent but gf5, if this is the new gf6 pennzoil platinum hm formula and I have to think it is, I might move off it.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I was doing 5,000 mile (8,000KM) OCI's whilst on RL HP 5W30 and using a RP 20-820 oil filter.

I'm now using HPL SC 0W30 with a RP 20-820 oil filter and taking it to 6,200 miles (10,000KM's).

We'll see how they compare in terms of UOA's at Blackstone. I've got another 5,000KM's to go on this first OCI with HPL SC 0W30 and then off the Blackstone for the UOA with TAN and TBN.

I've got a decent supply now of HPL SC 0W30 on hand, and I'm looking forward to seeing if I just use it all up and go back to RL HP 5W30, or stick with HPL SC 0W30... all the while though, I'll not stray from the RP 20-820 oil filter (13 in stock now...lol).

Stay tuned!

 

[Burla]

I think you are just ahead of me. My 2014 5.7L is sitting right at 106,000. Never any tick, nice quiet motor, and want it to stay that way.
Just a month ago I did an oil change and filled with PUP (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) 5W-20, and no Lubeguard, but used a Royal Purple 20-820 oversize filter. I'm figuring the 5W-20 would work well Pennsylvania winter. In about 3000 miles I plan to do another change, this time Redline 5W-30 and another RP 20-820 filter for the summer? Probably be a 5,000 mile OCI on the Redline.

I haven't decided on the Lubeguard. I will have it on hand but want to run the Redline by itself for a while.

It sounds like you are asking me a question, if so I don't like moving to redline in older engines without a better reason then trying to avoid tick, as in if you had a tick that would be a reason. Redline is no joke, and sometimes it will actually create knock in older engines we guess hyper cleaning could be a cause. Tolerances widen and when you hyper clean those areas you can get knock.

In theory as your plating comes back it will go quiet, but from forum experience I would not move to redline without cause. And I would never use biotech and redline unless I had tick on redline and then I might try it like once, but I certainly wouldnt mix esters as a rule. It sounds as if you have a great hemi, literally the only move I would make is up to a 0w30 in your situation. I don't know the options with pennzoil and 0w30 and formulas. As much as I like pennzoil, I'd likely move over to 0w30 m1 if I was in the cold place running a 0w30. If you use a pennzoil 0w30 might be euro, then I would go biotech. I would just avoid redline at this point if it was me and I was in your shoes.

 

[Curmudgeon]

It seams like pennzoil screwed the pooch on the formula that time, zinc should be up near 700, especially with a high mileage oil. I generally like that oil and I would say go for 5w30 same thing and see where you end up. I for sure would go lubegard again, if you see the phos between those runs lubegard run was good phos which is very protective with the moly and zinc you do have. If you stay at 5k interval I would not bother with tbn as you have been doing, good there. But eventhoug this is 0w20 your numbers should have been close, as you see no boron as well also troubling. So tthat was recent but gf5, if this is the new gf6 pennzoil platinum hm formula and I have to think it is, I might move off it.

Not High Mileage, but I currently have a sample of the PUP 5w-20 at Blackstone for a ****** Oil Analysis.

As I have read through so many posts in the last 6 months or so, it seems as though additive packs should not be a given based on earlier VOA samples. I wanted to have a laboratory before/after.

Additionally I did not want to add Lubeguard this time, it seems to thin an oil's viscosity and I'm already at 5w-20.

 

[Curmudgeon]

It sounds like you are asking me a question, if so I don't like moving to redline in older engines without a better reason then trying to avoid tick, as in if you had a tick that would be a reason. Redline is no joke, and sometimes it will actually create knock in older engines we guess hyper cleaning could be a cause. Tolerances widen and when you hyper clean those areas you can get knock.

In theory as your plating comes back it will go quiet, but from forum experience I would not move to redline without cause. And I would never use biotech and redline unless I had tick on redline and then I might try it like once, but I certainly wouldnt mix esters as a rule. It sounds as if you have a great hemi, literally the only move I would make is up to a 0w30 in your situation. I don't know the options with pennzoil and 0w30 and formulas. As much as I like pennzoil, I'd likely move over to 0w30 m1 if I was in the cold place running a 0w30. If you use a pennzoil 0w30 might be euro, then I would go biotech. I would just avoid redline at this point if it was me and I was in your shoes.

Thanks @Burla. We might not know for sure about "my hemi" for another 50k miles but all quiet so far!
I thought I had read that the various -30 oils typically had better viscosity, and that Pennzoil and M1 might have been changing the mix in their respective additive packs?
My next OCI should be closer to summer, and I really only want to do it so soon (3k or so) to see what everything looks like in there.

I like the 20-820 filter, so all that remains for me is what to use next. I'm open as I have no garage stock on hand, I just want to use the best oil I can moving forward.

 

[Highway]

It seams like pennzoil screwed the pooch on the formula that time, zinc should be up near 700, especially with a high mileage oil. I generally like that oil and I would say go for 5w30 same thing and see where you end up. I for sure would go lubegard again, if you see the phos between those runs lubegard run was good phos which is very protective with the moly and zinc you do have. If you stay at 5k interval I would not bother with tbn as you have been doing, good there. But eventhoug this is 0w20 your numbers should have been close, as you see no boron as well also troubling. So tthat was recent but gf5, if this is the new gf6 pennzoil platinum hm formula and I have to think it is, I might move off it.

I tried redline once but engine was not very quiet as before thats why i went back to pennzoil syn. if pennzoil changed the formula what oil and viscosity would you then recommend?

 

[Burla]

I tried redline once but engine was not very quiet as before thats why i went back to pennzoil syn. if pennzoil changed the formula what oil and viscosity would you then recommend?

5w30 for sure, the other guy 0w30 because he is concerned with cold performance. Once you fix the iron numbers, see where alum is, if alum increases then move to 0w30.

 

[kdoublep]

Burla,
i used Pennzoil platinum high mileage full synthetic 5w/20 Along with a bottle of lubeguard. I will move up to 5w/30 next oil change. Motor is good and quiet at starup and running temps. Throw some ideas at me im all about learning even at 63

I run PUP 5w30 with lubegard. Never done an UOA though.

Thanks for sharing this.

 

[blackbetty14]

Looks fine, less than 5k on the oil I wouldn't expect much to show up if nothing crazy was going on. Push those miles out tho they are rookie numbers. The oil plus the lube guard it gets expensive to do the changes every 5k. I personally run penn ultra syn with no additive and a decent filter ($40 oil change) and run that for 10k miles and all my oil reports look great from blackstone. They are actually requesting that I push past 12k since the oil looks so good but I haven't made it past 11k. I do run 5qts 5w30 and 2qts 10w30, oil/air separator and the premium filter on sale with the kit (K&N, Purolator Boss, Mobile 1 ext).