RoadKing
Senior Member
My lifted truck buddy that is 50 has been lifting trucks most of his life cautions me he would exceed 2" leveling. He believes its not worth it. Feels actual suspension lift to lower transfer case is required. ��
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Getting smart on lifts is not easy it's a bit of a rabbit hole. I see a lot of parts listed but knowing which part is lacking is not obvious to me yet.
For instance does any one see there is something obviously lacking on the Zone 4"?
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What brand tire are you running? I am wanting toyo rt but 34" may not come in 12.5 width i need to find out.
Hey is getting a speedometer recalibrated easy enough? I can remember years ago people going to do it and not able to get it done for some dump reason.
Consensus on 4" lift.
Loved my 4" Mopar (Superlift). Comes with Bilsteins on all 4 corners. Ended up adjusting them to 1.4 and was running 35s on her. Paid $1865 for everything. BDS, Zone, or Superlift is what most would recommend. My biggest gripes with RCX lift on these trucks is that the rear they just pop in a spacer. No control arm brackets. Causing your rear angles to be all off. as you can see there are no drop brackets even on their 6" lift. Also the 4" with Bils at 1.4" puts you at a true 5" lift. Sits 1" lower front and rear than a 6" on the same size tires. Measured a few people's I've ran into. But like stated above, some people like their RCX lift. I mean I'm running their 2 1/2" level on my new truck, although it's temporary until I get Power Wagon springs
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Hi Joeygster,
Same question for you as well. By the way nice truck mine is very similar.
Maybe at some point I'll get to taking/uploading some pics.
I know it's been a few years though do you remember the wheel to fender spacing with the shocks set to 1.4"
I have the same lift and the front shocks are current set to the highest position and my front end is higher than the rear.
I'm looking to get to the most level setting maybe with a little front rake so when I'm towing it's level.
Not sure if I should go down one notch or two. Two notches down would be the 1.4 setting.
https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/E4-WM5-Y352A00.pdf
Mine sat higher on the front for the first week or so after the Bils were installed. It settled down though.
I just measured it now and it's almost identical at 9 1/2" from tire to the underside of my Bushwacker flares.
Hope that helps.
You can go with a zone or bds 6 inch also. Choose the 3 inch rear coils instead of the 5 inch. Dont install the preload spacer and leave the bils at 0 if you put them on. This will leave you 5 front and 3 rear. If you decide to go higher simply replace the rear springs with the 5 inch coils and adjust the bils up. Will give you the ability to go up to 7.8 in the front and 5 in the rear later if you choose for minimal expense. It includes all brackets for the front and rear ant the ride quality is great.
Does anybody know what is the biggest lift kit that does not require cutting on a 2016 RAM Ecodiesel 4x4?
Not sure if anything has changed over the years but the last time I touched a truck with lift kits, there were some portions of the truck, transmission or other components that had to be cut in order to fit the new braces and brackets. I want to have a daily functional truck that can handle offroad about 1/3 of the time while running 35s, and still be converted back to stock if I choose so.Assuming you are talking about cutting the fenders..... lifts don't require cutting, bigger tires do.
If not talking about fenders, you will need to elaborate.
I was thinking similar lines to this, and actually asked the local dealer, a few years back now, about what was the biggest tire I could put on 'existing' equipment, stock, whatever you want to call it, so basically stock wheels, suspension, etc. without having to hack anything, and they gave me the dimensions I could work with. Now keep in mind, at least on my Warlock, they can come factory with 2 different size wheels, 17" and 20" (all 4 are the same size), so that could make a difference on your options as well, going by maximum outside diameter, as well as aspect ratio (tread to sidewall). If you order rims that have the same spacing, offset, etc. as stock, then any of the larger tires that fit the stock rims will stick out a little bit more.Supposedly I can level the truck and put 35's on my sock 20 inch wheels. But the tire will not stick out at all
But if I choose aftermarket wheels with a level I can only put 33 on there but they will stick out a inch or so.
I really want to get the aftermarket wheels so your suggestion might be perfect
That helps. Thank you. I might have to just bite the bullet and get the long travel kit from Dirt King Fabrications.I was thinking similar lines to this, and actually asked the local dealer, a few years back now, about what was the biggest tire I could put on 'existing' equipment, stock, whatever you want to call it, so basically stock wheels, suspension, etc. without having to hack anything, and they gave me the dimensions I could work with. Now keep in mind, at least on my Warlock, they can come factory with 2 different size wheels, 17" and 20" (all 4 are the same size), so that could make a difference on your options as well, going by maximum outside diameter, as well as aspect ratio (tread to sidewall). If you order rims that have the same spacing, offset, etc. as stock, then any of the larger tires that fit the stock rims will stick out a little bit more.
I do not remember for sure if this makes a difference or not, but Blue has a 1" factory suspension lift, which makes the larger tires possible while keeping everything else the same. It might be 33" without mods, it might even be up to something like 33.5". I seem to remember them saying there was like another .5" I could squeeze out of it, but that is getting into custom molded tires, and I am not going that $$$ route.
Not sure if anything has changed over the years but the last time I touched a truck with lift kits, there were some portions of the truck, transmission or other components that had to be cut in order to fit the new braces and brackets. I want to have a daily functional truck that can handle offroad about 1/3 of the time while running 35s, and still be converted back to stock if I choose so.
No worries. Another thing to consider, and others will surely let me know if I am wrong on this, any change to suspension travel CAN (not WILL, but CAN) result in increased wear to parts, up to and including premature failure, voiding the warranty, etc. if it can be proven that the damage was caused by the wrong parts being used.That helps. Thank you. I might have to just bite the bullet and get the long travel kit from Dirt King Fabrications.