Custom overhead aux switches, Ford style

[mrack]

Decided to take on a little project, and take advantage of the blank and unused space for the rear power slider. My plan is to more or less copy where ford puts their factory upfitter switches, I’m hoping to fit 6 small rocker switches while still leaving room for that little LED map light (which is really handy for grabbing stuff out of the center console in the dark). I lost some of my lights in a front end collision recently, but I currently have strobes in the grill, and strobes and cube lights in the backrack. In the future I want to add/add back a front light bar and/or fog lights, A-pillar mounted ditch lights, and flush mount reverse lights in the rear bumper. The strobes require 2 switches, one for power and one for pattern, hence the need for 6 total, but if I can only fit 5 that’s ok too.



Currently I have a kind of hacked together bunch of switches in the dash center stack which I want to get rid of, and a 6 gang fuse box under the dash in the drivers footwell area. Fortunately I have a new center stack from a parts truck so I don’t have to worry about filling those holes, I’ll just need to extend the wiring through the dash and up the A pillar.

Switches are arriving tomorrow, then the fun begins!

 

[Badger 13]

Good idea, please keep us posted on how it works out, and of course pictures.

 

[mrack]

3d printed a little frame for the switches, cut out the plastic and got it situated where I want it. Idea is for the switches to be as vertical as possible, I think that will be easiest to reach up and flick. Next up, a lot of sanding and smoothing. Obviously I ended up going to 5 switches instead of 6, it fits the space better and will hopefully retain an OEMish appearance






Waiting on blade connectors for the backside of the switches and I will assemble a simple harness. Nice thing about these switches is they don’t require any relays, they’re actually AC I believe.

 

[diymirage]

Looks like a fun little project

I put my switches on the dash, in the outcropping for the radio, so to speak

 

[DILLIGAF]

I put mine here since im lazy...lol.

I had the exact same idea as you. But what made me change my mind was running all those wires up there. Will be a major PITA but worth it when done.

Looing good.

 

[mrack]

Your setup looks good, unfortunately I don’t have the full console so my options are a bit limited. Wiring shouldn't be too bad, only complication is there will be a total of 11 wires which might get a little bulky going through the dash and A pillar. But I already ran a wire for cab lights I can follow. It’s a single cab so everything interior is easier, takes 10 minutes to pull the headliner lol

 

[diymirage]

Your setup looks good, unfortunately I don’t have the full console so my options are a bit limited. Wiring shouldn't be too bad, only complication is there will be a total of 11 wires which might get a little bulky going through the dash and A pillar. But I already ran a wire for cab lights I can follow. It’s a single cab so everything interior is easier, takes 10 minutes to pull the headliner lol

11 wires for 5 switches?

you need one power, one ground ( i presume these are lighted?) and 5 feeds
i only see you needing 7 wires

 

[wrench78]

Looking good so far. cool idea. Can't wait to see the end result.

 

[mrack]

11 wires for 5 switches?

you need one power, one ground ( i presume these are lighted?) and 5 feeds
i only see you needing 7 wires

I was going to run a different live wire to each switch, but now that you mention it, your right I can just run one 10 gauge or so and split it into 5 in the headliner, eliminates the need for a distribution block altogether. Shoot why didn’t I think of that a year ago lol. All my lights combined only draw ~7 amps, definitely under 10amps so my big distribution block definitely isn’t necessary.

Thanks for pointing that out!

 

[diymirage]

I was going to run a different live wire to each switch, but now that you mention it, your right I can just run one 10 gauge or so and split it into 5 in the headliner, eliminates the need for a distribution block altogether. Shoot why didn’t I think of that a year ago lol. All my lights combined only draw ~7 amps, definitely under 10amps so my big distribution block definitely isn’t necessary.

Thanks for pointing that out!

You don't even need to split it, just cut 4 short wires (4 Inches or so) and daisy chain them like this
(Just a generic picture, but you get the point)

Then do the same for the grounds

 

[04fxdwgi]

I was going to run a different live wire to each switch, but now that you mention it, your right I can just run one 10 gauge or so and split it into 5 in the headliner, eliminates the need for a distribution block altogether. Shoot why didn’t I think of that a year ago lol. All my lights combined only draw ~7 amps, definitely under 10amps so my big distribution block definitely isn’t necessary.

Thanks for pointing that out!

Pulling less than 10 amps total, wire only needs to be a 16 gauge. 10 gauge (good for 30 amps) is huge for that.

 

[mrack]

Pulling less than 10 amps total, wire only needs to be a 16 gauge. 10 gauge (good for 30 amps) is huge for that.

Right but I always go bigger then I need to, in case I add something bigger later on.

 

[jake0207]

Sooo there was a post for a 12v rf switch that you can program to any 12v accessories and retain the existing garage door buttons and they'll work for what ever you hook up to the rf switch

 

[Skyjockey]

I was going to run a different live wire to each switch, but now that you mention it, your right I can just run one 10 gauge or so and split it into 5 in the headliner, eliminates the need for a distribution block altogether. Shoot why didn’t I think of that a year ago lol. All my lights combined only draw ~7 amps, definitely under 10amps so my big distribution block definitely isn’t necessary.

Thanks for pointing that out!

NO ! You probably shouldn't be running high currnt up/thru those switches. Should be fine with thin wire up/down and use a relay at the device you're trying to control

 

[diymirage]

NO ! You probably shouldn't be running high currnt up/thru those switches. Should be fine with thin wire up/down and use a relay at the device you're trying to control

Thats the way i run my set ups, one live wire in to the switches, and signal wires out from those switches to the relays which are under the hood and close to the battery

Keep the heavier wiring to a minimum

But i believe OP said hes not even using relays

 

[mrack]

Drawing under 2 amps per circuit I really don’t see any need for relays. I will be insulating and wrapping everything well.

 

[Hardracer]

I put mine here since im lazy...lol.

I had the exact same idea as you. But what made me change my mind was running all those wires up there. Will be a major PITA but worth it when done.

Looing good.


View attachment 542648

I would say you are pretty much anything but lazy with the stuff we've seen you do to that truck...well done sir!

 

[DILLIGAF]

You need relays. If not those switches will short or melt. That's just my opinion from running light bars for years. and having a buddy's truck burn down because he was to cheap to use relays. 20$ for relays vs 40k for a new truck.

 

[mrack]

These switches are rated for 20A at 12v, or 10A at 125v. Drawing under 10% of that rating, I see no concern for failure. I’ve already been using them to power my lights for about a year, all I’m doing is changing the location and eliminating the distribution block since it’s quite excessive for the tiny amount of power I’m drawing. Remember this is 2 amps per circuit maximum, not like I’m running a winch off of it lol