Differential Locks for my 4th Gen Ram 1500

What kind of Locker to you prefer?

  • Ox Locker (Manual cable mechanical Lock)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Air Locker (ARB, etc.,)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • E-Locker (Eaton, AAM, etc.)

    Votes: 2 100.0%
  • LSD / Torsen Style Differential

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    2
  • Poll closed .

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knightjp

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This is a great video highlighting the different kinds of LSDs and lockers available for those who like to venture off road, etc.
My favorite is a OX Locker with the cable and if I were to get one, I would option it with electronic actuator. However in contacting OX, they said that while they love Ram trucks, they don't have anything for us.
I'm not so sure. I've got a 3.21 diff ratio and I know that it equivalent to a Dana 44, which they do have a kit for. Or am I missing something. I'm new to this.

Is there anyone who has put lockers (front and rear) in his/her 4th Gen Ram 1500? If Yes, what did you put?

What kind of lockers do you prefer?
 

DILLIGAF

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There's no front locker option on these 1500s since no one except for a few of us actually use them off road .On top of that the Gen 4 front diff is absolute garbage . That's why I did a gen 3 front diff swap.

For the rear Eaton locker is the go to. I would use anything else in these trucks.
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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knightjp

knightjp

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There's no front locker option on these 1500s since no one except for a few of us actually use them off road .On top of that the Gen 4 front diff is absolute garbage . That's why I did a gen 3 front diff swap.

For the rear Eaton locker is the go to. I would use anything else in these trucks.
Just came across this..
 

olyelr

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Came across this on ebay. I'm assuming that this is just the actuator that locks my truck into 4WD. Am I correct?
Yea that is not a locker, just an actuator to connect the axle.
Just came across this..
Thats for a 2nd gen half ton with a solid front axle.
 

RCSB guy

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I don’t think there is an option for locking the front right now. In the rear diff I am using an elocker out of Australia LTG4x4 it has changed the truck completely. The don’t think that Eaton makes anything for 4th gen 1500s this was the only one available last year. It has performed very well. Does not unlock when switching from forward to reverse.
This video is a good example of the truck locked and pushing up some ledges.
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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Came across this company..

An inquiry revealed that they have an E-Locker for the 4th Gen Ram 1500.
They do build differentials for custom applications as well and said that they would create lockers for front the Ram 1500, however the minimum order is 20 units.
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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I've been asked by the locker company to identify the my axle...
All I know is that it is a 3.21 ratio with 235mm rear axle.
According to the company they say that it is a ZF 9.25"
Is this correct?

I've heard some rams run a 3.92 gear axle ratios. Does this make a difference?

This video is a good example of the truck locked and pushing up some ledges.
Looking at the video, you posted, it states that the truck is running Yukon 4.56 gears. Does that mean you changed the ratio from 3.21 to 4.56?
 

Wild one

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I've been asked by the locker company to identify the my axle...
All I know is that it is a 3.21 ratio with 235mm rear axle.
According to the company they say that it is a ZF 9.25"
Is this correct?

I've heard some rams run a 3.92 gear axle ratios. Does this make a difference?


Looking at the video, you posted, it states that the truck is running Yukon 4.56 gears. Does that mean you changed the ratio from 3.21 to 4.56?
Both your diffs are ZF diffs,and there's not a hell'va lot available for them,especially the front diff.
They switched over from the AAM diffs to the ZF diffs in 2011,the early 09 and 10's still used the AAM diffs
 

RCSB guy

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I've been asked by the locker company to identify the my axle...
All I know is that it is a 3.21 ratio with 235mm rear axle.
According to the company they say that it is a ZF 9.25"
Is this correct?

I've heard some rams run a 3.92 gear axle ratios. Does this make a difference?


Looking at the video, you posted, it states that the truck is running Yukon 4.56 gears. Does that mean you changed the ratio from 3.21 to 4.56?
Most companies I have seen refer to the rear as a Z F9.25

I changed from my factory 3.92s to the Yukon 4.56. The ratios shouldn’t matter as they bolt to the carrier.
The rear is a 9.25 ZF and the e-locker will replace your current carrier. The front is a Zf 215mm. To replace the carrier you’d have to buy both a new differential and new gears, as from the factory the gears are welded to the carrier. I replaced mine with the Yukon loaded carrier when I changed to the 4.56 gears.
If you’re looking to lock the axles and wheel it it might be worth changing the ratio as well. It’ll let you crawl better and run bigger tires.
 

olyelr

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Most companies I have seen refer to the rear as a Z F9.25

I changed from my factory 3.92s to the Yukon 4.56. The ratios shouldn’t matter as they bolt to the carrier.
The rear is a 9.25 ZF and the e-locker will replace your current carrier. The front is a Zf 215mm. To replace the carrier you’d have to buy both a new differential and new gears, as from the factory the gears are welded to the carrier. I replaced mine with the Yukon loaded carrier when I changed to the 4.56 gears.
If you’re looking to lock the axles and wheel it it might be worth changing the ratio as well. It’ll let you crawl better and run bigger tires.
Take this guys advice, hes been there done that and wheels his truck
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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I changed from my factory 3.92s to the Yukon 4.56. The ratios shouldn’t matter as they bolt to the carrier.
The rear is a 9.25 ZF and the e-locker will replace your current carrier. The front is a Zf 215mm. To replace the carrier you’d have to buy both a new differential and new gears, as from the factory the gears are welded to the carrier. I replaced mine with the Yukon loaded carrier when I changed to the 4.56 gears.
If you’re looking to lock the axles and wheel it it might be worth changing the ratio as well. It’ll let you crawl better and run bigger tires.
This might be a stupid question, but how does changing the ratio help run bigger tires? What does changing the ratio do?
I'm currently running 35s and might look at running 37s (as long as the spare fits in the stock location) but that is about largest I'm willing to go.
 

olyelr

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This might be a stupid question, but how does changing the ratio help run bigger tires? What does changing the ratio do?
I'm currently running 35s and might look at running 37s (as long as the spare fits in the stock location) but that is about largest I'm willing to go.
Putting on larger tires without changing the ratio drops the rpm range. Putting lower (numerically higher) gears in the diffs will gain that back.
 

olyelr

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This might be a stupid question, but how does changing the ratio help run bigger tires? What does changing the ratio do?
I'm currently running 35s and might look at running 37s (as long as the spare fits in the stock location) but that is about largest I'm willing to go.
I guess i will add also, when the rpm changes (gets lower at the same speed) it can make the truck feel much more sluggish. And most of the time the bigger tires are also heavier and have more rolling resistance, which makes it even worse/more noticeable.

Regearing fixes that.

I will say, though, that these newer vehicles with the 8 speed and 10 speed transmissions, tire size changes are not quite so noticeable (compared to the older 5 or 6 speeds). But if the tire size change is drastic, a regear is still very beneficial.
 

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This might be a stupid question, but how does changing the ratio help run bigger tires? What does changing the ratio do?
I'm currently running 35s and might look at running 37s (as long as the spare fits in the stock location) but that is about largest I'm willing to go.
Not a stupid question at all. As you increase the tire diameter you’re effectively making the gearing taller (faster speeds at the same tire rpm). That’ll take you out of the engine’s happy power band and lower your torque available at the wheels. Changing to shorter gearing will improve the power available at the wheels, return your transmission shift points back to where they should be, and make the truck way better off road. If you’re just street driving it’ll probably be ok but you’re giving up a lot off road.

If you look at the chart below it kind of shows you in a generic way. Yellow is in theory better mileage, black is optimum and blue is power.
IMG_4156.png
I switched to the 4.56 when I did the locker and now on 37s the truck has almost the same power feel as stock, and is doing 15ish mpg highway (only 7 when crawling lol), and to be honest if I had known the 37s were in the works I would have gone 4.88. Like others have said for overall driving the 8 speed (with 2 over drives) will help you a bunch even in 4 low but only to go faster not replace the missing power.
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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@RCSB guy - Thank you for the reply. I've currently got a 4inch lift and 35s on without any rubbing or scrubbing or cutting needed. I would like to move on to 37s if I can find a way to do it without any cutting and if I can fit a 37 in the stock spare wheel location. According to a couple of youtube videos, you can, while most people say 35s is max.
My truck stays on the highway most of the time with some off road stuff during the weekend and during Winter months.
Based on that, what gears would I need if I was moving to 37s and what would that entail? Do I need to change the stock axles or change the diffs completely, etc.
Basically what I'm asking is for a parts list of what I need.
 

olyelr

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@RCSB guy - Thank you for the reply. I've currently got a 4inch lift and 35s on without any rubbing or scrubbing or cutting needed. I would like to move on to 37s if I can find a way to do it without any cutting and if I can fit a 37 in the stock spare wheel location. According to a couple of youtube videos, you can, while most people say 35s is max.
My truck stays on the highway most of the time with some off road stuff during the weekend and during Winter months.
Based on that, what gears would I need if I was moving to 37s and what would that entail? Do I need to change the stock axles or change the diffs completely, etc.
Basically what I'm asking is for a parts list of what I need.
Im not really up to snuff on the half tons, but i know you cant fit a 37 in the stock spare tire location on my power wagon. Most 35’s need to be aired down to fit. But, maybe the half ton frame offers a bit more room?

As far as gearing options go, i am pretty sure you are very limited in the front. Again, i am not very well versed in the half ton territory, but i have read enough of @DILLIGAF posts that the front diff is a big pile of shet when it comes to wheeling hard. Which may be why there is not much aftermarket support as far as gearing and lockers go. If its available, i would probably go 4.56’s if its street driven a lot, or 4.88’s if more for off road.
 

DILLIGAF

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Theres a reason I got a Jeep JK to off road now. The 1500s are noting more than glorified grocery getters. Even after everything I did to mine a stock Jeep makes it further down the trail :anitoof:

The reason there's is no front locker available is because the front end on these trucks are junk.
 
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Adamcr68

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Theres a reason I got a Jeep JK to off road now. The 1500s are noting more than glorified grocery getters. Even after everything I did to mine a stock Jeep makes it further down the trail :anitoof:

The reason there's is no front locker available is because the front end on these trucks are junk.
My grocery getter and occasional sofa hauler resents and resembles those outrageous comments.
I did tell my truck not to expect a retraction, your post’s come from real world experience’s and only apply to most 1500’s, my truck is the exception of course.

I must not have said it very convincingly, pretty sure my truck didn’t believe me, hopefully what ever decides to break in the next few weeks won’t cost too much.
 
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