Differential Locks for my 4th Gen Ram 1500

[Wild one]

There's always the good ole "Lincoln Locker",it's the cheapest locker available and will work on both front and rear diffs .
Streetable not so much,but they make wicked 4 wheeler lockers

 

[RCSB guy]

@RCSB guy - Thank you for the reply. I've currently got a 4inch lift and 35s on without any rubbing or scrubbing or cutting needed. I would like to move on to 37s if I can find a way to do it without any cutting and if I can fit a 37 in the stock spare wheel location. According to a couple of youtube videos, you can, while most people say 35s is max.
My truck stays on the highway most of the time with some off road stuff during the weekend and during Winter months.
Based on that, what gears would I need if I was moving to 37s and what would that entail? Do I need to change the stock axles or change the diffs completely, etc.
Basically what I'm asking is for a parts list of what I need.

I’m not super versed on what it would take to fit 37s on 4” lift. Might be doable with the right offset but I don’t see it without cutting some plastic inner fender liner in the front. Rear might be ok. I’m on 6” BDS lift and have lots of room but previously with a 3” and 35s I fit them by cutting a lot of the rear drivers side front liner (and the front for a high clearance bumper)
As for the spare I keep mine in the bed, laid flat and take it out when I need to haul. I don’t see it fitting under the truck (maybe if you remove the dual exhaust and heat shield, but I think it’d still be too tight I can measure when I get home in a couple of days if you’d like)
For partslist and sticking with the 35s the change to 4.11 would be a good combo for more street focus and 4.56 if you want more performance off road. With the 4.56 and 35” tires I want to say I was like 2300rpm @75mph.

I’d do the Yukon gears
Front this includes the new carrier
Rear you can reuse you current diff carrier. Orif you want an elocker I like the Ltg 4x4. ARB makes an air locker but now there is plumbing and air compressor to add to that. Alternatively you can run a positrac I wheeled with the stock anti spin for quite a while and it did ok. Just know it will hold you back. Still fun though I did top of the world with 3.92s 35” and open (anti-spin) diff.
That’s all the parts for just a gear change. Make sure to grab the master install kits front and rear break in oil and final oil. I’m not sure where you are but shops down in Albuquerque run about $1200 an axle.
Pictures for tire reference:
3” lift 35s



6” lift 37s

37” spare in bed. Just a little behind where the factory spare mounts underneath.

 

[suicideking]

I don't have a locker in my Ram. Though have had a few Jeeps since 2012. My current Jeep (06 unlimited) is setup for air lockers. I have an ARB rear and Yukon up front. If I was going to put a locker in something not already setup for air, I would get an Eaton E-locker. Just much more simple with less things that could go wrong.

I have had air leaks. Some where the locker still works, another when the locker would not work. I also had my air compressor (ARB Twin) die in the middle of a hard trail (Hammers), so that sucked. I've never had anything go wrong with an e-locker. Even less will likely go wrong with an aftermarket locker vs. factory. The e lockers just use a standard 12v power switch. So very simple.

 

[WildcatHemi]

@Wild one since the front axle has the center disconnect, is the lincoln locker really a viable option?

 

[Wild one]

@Wild one since the front axle has the center disconnect, is the lincoln locker really a viable option?

Yes as you weld the spiders,the disconnect would still work.

"Lincoln Locker" is slang for welding the spider gears,using a Lincoln welder

 

[WildcatHemi]

ya i got that. my question was more about the on road driveability when the axle is disconnected. have you welded one of these and drove it around?

i had an xj in the past with a lunchbox locker in the front and a cable operated CAD fork but that was a long time ago.

 

[Wild one]

ya i got that. my question was more about the on road driveability when the axle is disconnected. have you welded one of these and drove it around?

i had an xj in the past with a lunchbox locker in the front and a cable operated CAD fork but that was a long time ago.

Welded spiders aren't streetable,they'll break axles/carrier etc. in the rear diff if you make a tight turn on pavement.The post was a joke,don't weld the spiders on a street vehicle.
I had welded spiders in an old street/drag toy many years ago,and it would break axles in the 9" diff if i wasn't very careful making a turn on pavement.
The axle disconnect on the front would probably be okay,but i still wouldn't weld them on a truck that also sees daily street use. If you need the front locked,you need a vehicle that's strictly an off-road toy,and a Ram is not that vehicle