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So I can say with absolute certainty that part #68338342AB works on 4th gen 2500s. Install was super simple.I did spray the tapered fits a few hours before with PB blaster, not sure if it made much difference. Definitely get a Pittman arm puller for the Pittman arm side. The knuckle side I smacked good on the knuckle and drag link a few times then used a brass hammer and gave a smack on the bolt on the ball joint and it popped right out. I made a match mark on my Pittman arm for reference so I could get close when adjusting it. I followed the recall bulletin torque values. Torqued the Pittman arm nut to 27ftlbs plus an additional 180° rotation on the nut. This turned out to be about 135ft lbs. Knuckle side was torqued to 44ftlbs plus 105°. This was about 70ftlbs. Coming off this nut was extremely loose I doubt it was more than 25ft lbs.
Broke the locking collar loose and spun adjustment sleeve easily by hand to move the steering wheel to where I needed it. Took it on a drive and had to make further adjusting. After I got it set I match marked the position of everything and torqued the lock collar to 55ftlbs.
ETA: I also made sure my old and new links were close in length before I installed to minimize my needed adjustment
With the adjustments and drives down the road to check the wheel maybe an hour and twenty minutes total. Easy job but definitely invest in the puller!Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
So does adjusting the drag link impact alignment at all? I need to adjust mine slightly and want to do it myself, but want to make sure I'm not knocking it out of alignment.
Totally agree with everything saidI have commented on this subject before and there is no way I would allow anybody to weld an adjustable part on my truck. With that stated I totally agree with the others that feel that FCA should replace the defective part, and yes, it is defective, with the new upgraded part without cost to the owners of these very expensive trucks. First it's a Safety Defect, there is no argument on that score.
Number 2, customer satisfaction goes a Long way in the truck community. From what I have read here FCA Customer Cares, Cares not a whole lot, and that's the part of this Cluster Fluck that I really don't understand. Now that the Feds are taking a second look it would seem to me that there has to be someone at FCA that would want this subject taken care of in a prudent and painless manner for the good of all concerned. If this goes on much longer I am sure someone will step up and file a class action lawsuit and I am sure most of us would join it, myself included. Myself I am just going to order the new upgraded Mopar Part and install it myself. Will I submit a claim, sure I will but I am not holding my breath or running to the mailbox looking for a check.
So in closing, please don't weld your nuts. Check your links and if you want peace of mind spend a $100 or so and Fix it once and for all. I am sure at some point down the road this will all come to a head but in the mean time just deal with it, it's not worth the grief or aggravation....
The new part looks nothing like the one on your truck or my 18. So no they wont weld anything cause there is nothing to weld on the new part it has a clamp.Since the recall requires that the drag link nuts are to be welded, will you be 100% confident that once you replace your existing drag link with the new Mopar Part and install it yourself, that it too, if you brought your vehicle into a Ram Dealership for any other service, won't have its adjusting nuts which are far closer to the wheels, welded? After all, the recall requires welding of the drag link nuts. Old drag link nuts versus the new drag link nuts are still nuts. Per the recall those nuts still require welding. I didn't see anything in the recall to state otherwise.
Man that looks awesome and so much better. Now I need mine to get here. Thanks for all the info.So I can say with absolute certainty that part #68338342AB works on 4th gen 2500s. Install was super simple.I did spray the tapered fits a few hours before with PB blaster, not sure if it made much difference. Definitely get a Pittman arm puller for the Pittman arm side. The knuckle side I smacked good on the knuckle and drag link a few times then used a brass hammer and gave a smack on the bolt on the ball joint and it popped right out. I made a match mark on my Pittman arm for reference so I could get close when adjusting it. I followed the recall bulletin torque values. Torqued the Pittman arm nut to 27ftlbs plus an additional 180° rotation on the nut. This turned out to be about 135ft lbs. Knuckle side was torqued to 44ftlbs plus 105°. This was about 70ftlbs. Coming off this nut was extremely loose I doubt it was more than 25ft lbs.
Broke the locking collar loose and spun adjustment sleeve easily by hand to move the steering wheel to where I needed it. Took it on a drive and had to make further adjusting. After I got it set I match marked the position of everything and torqued the lock collar to 55ftlbs.
ETA: I also made sure my old and new links were close in length before I installed to minimize my needed adjustment
With the adjustments and drives down the road to check the wheel maybe an hour and twenty minutes total. Easy job but definitely invest in the puller!
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Lucky that thing is like gold right now lol
At least y'all in here had the option of doing the recall for those who were advised at the dealership... I took my truck in for routine service before I received notification and upon picking it up they went ahead and just did the recall fix without telling me about it ahead of time or calling about it. I was under the impression they were supposed to tell me or call me for anything out of routine service. So now mines all welded with a subpar fix and I'll have to pay extra to have it replaced later on for the weld to be cut.
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really you can't get it aligned either? I did not know that part.
I agree you spend that kind of money and there fix is weld the nuts.
NOTE: Most people don’t realize that you can’t have a wheel alignment done with those being welded.
But now they said your dealer can do alignment only. No one else. I guess they doing so backwards **** to do it. Don’t know how. I’m still getting it replaced don’t want to deal with dealship if I don’t have to and don’t think I’ll ever buy another vehicle from FCA again with this ****.
My understanding is you can get it aligned, but if the alignment causes your steering wheel to be off center then you can't center it without cutting the welds since the drag link is used to adjust the steering wheel center.
That's what I did with mine and its been fine for months so just waiting wanting a safe part. The best part is when I first checked it out with two big ass wrenches on it bracing myself to see how tight it was and the weight of the wrench spun it off lol. I was like uh hand tightened jesus lol made me feel so safe fca.
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