ECU Fuse Pull? & Fuel info/tip?

[NY Andrew]

I have a motorcycle and just got off the phone with a super smart ECU flash guy.

Somehow got sidetracked and started talking about the Hemi and he said something I haven't heard or read before, so figured I'll post here see what you guys think on the subject.


He said how when you first bought the vehicle brand new it almost seemed a bit more powerful/louder/responsive. Then over time due to EPA regulations and aging, it begins to seem more bogged down.

His recommendation to sort of refresh/resolve this after every 50 starts, is to pull whichever the fuse is labeled for Chrysler (ECU/ECM/PCM) with the vehicle off, wait 10-30 seconds, then put it back in.

Anyone ever heard of this or tried this? And know which fuse it is (I haven't popped the hood yet)?
I don't drive the vehicle that much so I'm thinking I'll do this once a year at my yearly oil change if this indeed is a good thing and doesn't require having to reprogram anything in the cab.



He also had an interesting perspective on non-ethanol fuel (which is all I use in my vehicles).

Motorcycles have a more narrow-band fuel-mapping and he recommended to use fuel with ethanol (also what the flashed ECU was mapped for) vs automobiles which have a more wide-band fuel-mapping and can handle non-ethanol better; but like he said non-ethanol seems to sit in the gas station tanks longer and generally would be best if the vehicle sits like two years. I've always used non-ethanol mainly because it doesn't retain as much moisture.
Thinking about making the switch from non-ethanol to ethanol mixed for the bike now after this flash and his recommendation, but I guess the Hemi will still be okay with non-ethanol as it's mapped for a wider range and the fuse pull may help as well.

 

[danoday]

I have never heard of pulling a fuse to improve performance.
I would almost say that is impossible to some how improve the ecu map through doing so, considering the map is a fixed set of values to cover a broad spectrum of air fuel ratios in various conditions such as sea level to 10k feet Pressure altitude without manually making adjustments. All oem ecu map tuning covers a large spectrum of atmospheric conditions to maintain performance. I think performance degradation comes from warn parts, piston valves,maf/02 sensors, drive train and so on. I don't think you can improve those things through resetting a circuit bus...but maybe I don't know.

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[MADDOG]

Before I got a programmer & custom tune on my 2007 & 2014 Hemi powered trucks I used to pull the fuse for the PCM. Then I went out and drove it like I stole it, "teaching" the PCM how I wanted the truck to run. There is some aspect of the stock programming that allows for "adaptives" and gives a range of operation.

Problem was that once you got hung up in day to day traffic a few times it learned that style of driving.

It wasn't a huge difference in performance and it doesn't last very long. After I tuned both trucks it was no longer needed.

 

[RamInfo]

Pulling the fuse would at best delete the “learned” adjustments the system has made to the mappings. And your MC guy is up in the night WRT non-alcohol fuel. I routinely see 2-4mpg better mileage in my road bikes when on pure gas, especially on the second tank of 91 octane. Smoother running and better throttle response as well.

IMHO, YMMV, etc.

DG

 

[Wild one]

I have a motorcycle and just got off the phone with a super smart ECU flash guy.

Somehow got sidetracked and started talking about the Hemi and he said something I haven't heard or read before, so figured I'll post here see what you guys think on the subject.


He said how when you first bought the vehicle brand new it almost seemed a bit more powerful/louder/responsive. Then over time due to EPA regulations and aging, it begins to seem more bogged down.

His recommendation to sort of refresh/resolve this after every 50 starts, is to pull whichever the fuse is labeled for Chrysler (ECU/ECM/PCM) with the vehicle off, wait 10-30 seconds, then put it back in.

Anyone ever heard of this or tried this? And know which fuse it is (I haven't popped the hood yet)?
I don't drive the vehicle that much so I'm thinking I'll do this once a year at my yearly oil change if this indeed is a good thing and doesn't require having to reprogram anything in the cab.



He also had an interesting perspective on non-ethanol fuel (which is all I use in my vehicles).

Motorcycles have a more narrow-band fuel-mapping and he recommended to use fuel with ethanol (also what the flashed ECU was mapped for) vs automobiles which have a more wide-band fuel-mapping and can handle non-ethanol better; but like he said non-ethanol seems to sit in the gas station tanks longer and generally would be best if the vehicle sits like two years. I've always used non-ethanol mainly because it doesn't retain as much moisture.
Thinking about making the switch from non-ethanol to ethanol mixed for the bike now after this flash and his recommendation, but I guess the Hemi will still be okay with non-ethanol as it's mapped for a wider range and the fuse pull may help as well.

It's a common trick to pull the ecm fuse in the Challengers and Chargers.My truck is tuned,so i've never done it on it though.

 

[danoday]

Before I got a programmer & custom tune on my 2007 & 2014 Hemi powered trucks I used to pull the fuse for the PCM. Then I went out and drove it like I stole it, "teaching" the PCM how I wanted the truck to run. There is some aspect of the stock programming that allows for "adaptives" and gives a range of operation.

Problem was that once you got hung up in day to day traffic a few times it learned that style of driving.

It wasn't a huge difference in performance and it doesn't last very long. After I tuned both trucks it was no longer needed.

I guess it could store last known driving event fuel trim settings against the baselined "canned" oem map, but I would suspect the ecm is always trying to achieve perfect AFR (as defined by emissions...lol) which tends to be more lean especially with fixed shift points (auto-xmsn). I think most oem maps tend to stay true to mpg and emissions standards where as custom tuned maps tend to achieve the best HP/TQ values at specific rpm range.
Wouldn't it be awesome if when you bought a vehicle you actually bought full authority of the map to adjust as you see fit whether for gas efficiency or peak power. Data rights suck in this case.

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