BenWade
Senior Member
I agree. I like to hear advice from various people. What will really grind your gears is I probably agree with 90% of what you share.
So go easy when someone disagrees with you on that 10%, eh??
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I agree. I like to hear advice from various people. What will really grind your gears is I probably agree with 90% of what you share.
Read through the the thread i linked to,you don't have to read very far to see they can be easily resurfaced with a belt sander.This is Fast's #17 post in the thread.The picture i posted is also his pic,and if you look at his post,he shows a before and after pic after he's belt sanded it flat.Fair enough. You're right, you aren't the one that brought up the .100
Thank you, Nick! I’m exploring some options and trying to figure out what the best route to go is. I may be getting in contact with youYou best product options will be either BD manifolds, AFE shorties, or long tube headers and a tune.
BD Manifolds will be the least expensive option but no performance gains. They will not warp or crack and will last!
AFE shorties, less than long tubes but more than manifolds. Small increase in power. They will not warp or crack and will last!
Stainless Works Long tubes and a tune. Most expensive option but nice gain in power (best "bolt on" power improvement you can do on these trucks). They will not warp or crack and will last!
message me if you are interested, we can help with any of these options
You're welcome! Let me know if you have any questions. happy to help any way I canThank you, Nick! I’m exploring some options and trying to figure out what the best route to go is. I may be getting in contact with you
Check out Remflex gaskets,they have the ability to handle expansion and contraction,as they're a thicker graphite gasket.Part of the problem is shorter bolts used on the newer designed exhaust manifolds not having enough length for proper flexing. That aside, the manifolds I've seen off a vehicle with broken bolts/studs (Ford, GM, Rams, etc.) have all had more than 0.100 in out of plane. Cast iron is pretty brittle and doesn't like to bend much.
If the gasket could absorb a good amount of movement and still come back to its original torque setting when cold, that could end the problem. I've noticed on 6.2 GMs the factory gasket appears much thicker.
Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 130066 miles.
You know, some years Chevy small blocks actually used no gasket at all and used a very low torque on the exhaust manifolds. There were design differences, of course, the casting flanges were much thicker on the outer cylinders which required a longer, larger bolt.I would use less torque on new bolts. I did the OE ones on my 04. Same gaskets new OE bolts Less torque than spec. That was 200 or so thousand miles ago. Still good no leaks.
I'll lay ya money we got a belt sander here at work to make the manifold in the picture shred down to a pile of dust if you let it,.100 or so looks like nothing in that picture and I wouldn't hesitate to use one that has been sanded that far or more.i dont think bolt hole alignment would change either from a sanding.bolts go straight in don't they??not on an angle I mean.Then the manifold should be replaced. You are not going to remove .100 of material without compromising the integrity or the bolt hole alignment. A belt sander cannot remove that amount of material uniformly and address the structural distortion effectively. Again, you're welcome to disagree but I'll still like a photo of .100" of warpage resurfaced with a belt sander....
So 735 for the Labor after you payed 500 ish for the manifolds?2019 RAM 1500 Classic
5.7L
Good friend of mine has a 2020 RAM and has had the factory exhaust manifolds replaced 2x under warranty.
My passenger side cracked after my warranty period was up. There's enough data on the internet to agree there is a design problem with the OEM manifolds. I couldn't bring myself to install new factory manifolds.
I opted for the BD manifold kit (1041463) which includes both manifolds, all hardware and gaskets. $515 delivered to my door in less than one week. Had a local shop perform the R&R. $735 for the work which included new heat shields and a dipstick tube. No broken bolts were found in my case.
I towed a travel trailer over 2700 miles from New York State to Florida and back without any exhaust manifold problems. As has been mentioned in other replies the BD manifolds are significantly heavier than the OEM and include additional machining steps on the mounting holes and longer spacers between the head of the bolt and the manifold to allow for more bolt stretch during thermal cycling.
Other thoughts...the BD manifolds were ~$200 more than new OEM manifolds. The shop that did my work has installed shorty SS tube manifolds on RAM's in the past. They were not advocates of the tube manifolds as they had a number of call backs for problems after the installation.
Update: The BD manifold bolts were tightened to 18 ft-lbs
I was going to ask the same thing. $500 for the manifolds and then $735 for the labor or $200 for labor and it coming to $735 total?So 735 for the Labor after you payed 500 ish for the manifolds?
Turns out the truck I was talking about that I was suppose to do manifolds on it came in today It has rod knock guy sold me the truck for $1000 Full rebuild thread coming soonI never brought up .100 however the picture that wildone posted a few posts back that is severe case. I have sanded similar looking manifolds flat without issue If you just replaced them with oem or similar manifolds they just re warp. I am not going to post after this I am beating a dead horse here... I have rebuilt more engines on these trucks then half the people on here I am sure you never get your hands dirty lmaoo just a keyboard warrior.
And yes I do make more then you $$$