Issues already with 5k miles...

[NH RAM]

So I have been having a few issues with my truck, which I bought new. I know the 1500's have had some similar issues but haven't seen much on the HD's.

1. Hood flapping at highway speeds. I added a bug deflector and made no difference, not that I added it for that reason. I see that there's a TSB for the 1500's doing the same thing.
2. Squeaking over bumps from the driver's front wheel area. I thought it was a suspension issue so I sprayed the moving parts with WD and there was no change. Again, the 1500's have the same issue and there's a couple possible fixes to include a new brake caliper, greasing the slides, or pad shims.
3. I added 2" front spacers to help with holding the V-plow higher. I had a shop install the sacers and I drove to the alignment shop and was told they can't align the truck because I have a bad passenger side hub. Sure enough, there was play and a faint clunk when moving the wheel to check for play. I have stock size tires and only plowed a few times last winter.

I have an appointment at the dealer on Wednesday but this is a little concerning having a bad hub already. Stock size tires and wheels, so no excessive wear from wheel offset. I guess the good news is that it was found now before I hook my camper to it and drive 3600 miles to South Dakota and back in a couple weeks. I thought the steering was a little vague but chalked it up to going from a 1500 to a 2500.

I did notice that while my plow was attached in 4x4, when I turned my wheel past maybe 1/2 to lock, the truck was incredibly rough while turning, like it was binding or bouncing. This would happen on packed snow, so it was not binding on pavement. The last solid axle I drove was a 1990 Jeep Cherokee, so no comparison with the weight of a plow. Hopefully the hub was the cause of that also. Any thoughts? My 1500 was smooth as silk with the HT plow on it, I figured the HD would be fine with the 8'6 XV2 plow.

Thanks!

 

[star_deceiver]

1) Screw out the bump stops under the hood 1 or 2 turns.
2) Suspension or cab mounts. WD40 May have had no effect.
3) Good luck at the dealer. Also, try to never turn the wheel with the truck moving forward or backwards. That adds a lot of pressure to the steering components, especially when in 4wd.

 

[NH RAM]

Also, try to never turn the wheel with the truck moving forward or backwards. That adds a lot of pressure to the steering components, especially when in 4wd.

Are you telling me to not turn the wheel while the truck is moving? I might be missing something but I can't comprehend why that would be an issue on packed snow; if I was on dry pavement, I would be concerned that I would be binding, but it seems like I should be able to drive a HD in 4x4 with a plow and do more than drive straight. Especially since I opted for the Snow Chief package, there's no surprise that I'll be plowing. Three of my buddies have Silverado 2500's with the same plow and no drama (tweaked torsion bars for front lift); granted that's an IFS and not solid axle. My neighbor runs a landscaping company and puts his F350 in 4Lo to back a dump trailer loaded with 10,000# of rock up my s-curved driveway and has nothing similar to what it feels like with my truck. I don't condone that and wouldn't do it in my truck, but he does it.

Maybe the stock suspension squatted too much and was causing binding/jerking with the ujoints, I'm not sure, but hopefully the spacers help.

 

[star_deceiver]

Things tend to bind more when you’re in 4wd. The left and right steering driveline can’t turn inside the axle unless the driveshaft is moving.

I’ve heard it mentioned in different conversations over the years from the young and old alike about having the truck moving, forward or reverse, even if crawling when you crank the wheels one way or the other. Maybe it’s an old wives tale or maybe we’re just repeating bullshirt that we’ve heard.

Try driving slowly in 4wd with the wheels cranked one way. The front axle lopes and hops even in snow. There’s binding; things aren’t the happiest... now add the weight of a plow.

Just one way of being a little easier on the truck.

 

[NH RAM]

Things tend to bind more when you’re in 4wd. The left and right steering driveline can’t turn inside the axle unless the driveshaft is moving.

I’ve heard it mentioned in different conversations over the years from the young and old alike about having the truck moving, forward or reverse, even if crawling when you crank the wheels one way or the other. Maybe it’s an old wives tale or maybe we’re just repeating bullshirt that we’ve heard.

Try driving slowly in 4wd with the wheels cranked one way. The front axle lopes and hops even in snow. There’s binding; things aren’t the happiest... now add the weight of a plow.

Just one way of being a little easier on the truck.

I understood the binding issue in 4x4 but equated snow with easily spinning tires, which isn't really the case with a 900# plow.

After a little digging, this hopping issue is common with the solid axles and Ujoints. I think my Jeep was smooth because it had a full time 4x4 setting also so it may have allowed some slippage from the tc. My 1500 and the Silverados are smooth because of the CV's. I guess I'll have to be careful turning and understand that this is a normal characteristic.

I generally try to turn the wheels while moving as it feels easier on the steering.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[NH RAM]

So the truck came back from the dealership yesterday after a short visit.
Everything in the front end is within specs. I'm told this is fairly common for Ram and Jeep owners to be told that the small amount of play in the front end is problematic and needs to be changed. I had them write the tolerances down and then what my truck was at but I 'll have to add the specs later today.

The tech adjusted the hood a few times and I'm told that the hood doesn't flutter at highway speeds anymore. I could have adjusted it, as I did on my '16 simply because it sat lower than the fenders until I adjusted it, but with a nearly 4,000 mile trip in 2 weeks, if something crazy happens with the hood being damaged, I'd prefer it be their fault than mine.

The mystery squeak stopped on Sunday after hanging around for about a month or two. I'm not sure if the change to high humidity quieted it down or if it simply disappeared as strangely as it appeared.

The truck drives just as nice with the Tuff Country 2" spacer as it did stock and I'm quite happy with the truck.

 

[PoMansRam]

What type of play were we talking about that the alignment shop found?

Once the wheels are off the ground, can you grab a front wheel by the top and bottom and feel / see movement? There should be none.

In terms of driveline binding while in 4x4, slight turns should be no problem. Tight turns like making a 90deg turn into a driveway will definitely bind, feel and sound weird on surfaces with no slip.

 

[gofishn]

Things tend to bind more when you’re in 4wd. The left and right steering driveline can’t turn inside the axle unless the driveshaft is moving.

I’ve heard it mentioned in different conversations over the years from the young and old alike about having the truck moving, forward or reverse, even if crawling when you crank the wheels one way or the other. Maybe it’s an old wives tale or maybe we’re just repeating bullshirt that we’ve heard.

Try driving slowly in 4wd with the wheels cranked one way. The front axle lopes and hops even in snow. There’s binding; things aren’t the happiest... now add the weight of a plow.

Just one way of being a little easier on the truck.

Yes, heard this too and I DO NOT GIVE ****!

4X4 that I cannot drive, normally, when in 4X4?
Oh, Hell No.

My old 1999 2500 would go into 4x4 at 70mph without hesitation and no hopping in corners,
unless I hit a dry patch of pavement, then it would hop but, even then, that damn truck had better hop around
without issue and failure of any kind.

Tracked vehicles can manage to function in turns without damage, so too had by 4x4.

 

[star_deceiver]

Me: Don’t crank the wheels too much without movement.....

Also me:

 

[JUICEBOX]

My hood flutters on my 2500 as well, I'll adjust it when it gets back from the body shop.

 

[bm02tj]

A ujoint at angle goes fast then slow as it rotates so that is normal when turning at times

 

[NH RAM]

What type of play were we talking about that the alignment shop found?

The alignment shop said they felt some play and there should be none.
The dealership found the hubs to be tight.
The dealership found a small amount of play in ball joints as follows:
Left Upper: .02"
Right Upper: .01"
Left Lower: .02"
Right Lower: .02"
Per the dealership, the allowable tolerances are:
Out of spec for uppers is .06"
Out of Spec for lowers is .09"

 

[NH RAM]

Me: Don’t crank the wheels too much without movement.....

Also me:View attachment 213081

90mph in 4x4...I haven't done that yet ‍

 

[PoMansRam]

The alignment shop said they felt some play and there should be none.
The dealership found the hubs to be tight.
The dealership found a small amount of play in ball joints as follows:
Left Upper: .02"
Right Upper: .01"
Left Lower: .02"
Right Lower: .02"
Per the dealership, the allowable tolerances are:
Out of spec for uppers is .06"
Out of Spec for lowers is .09"

The alignment shop said it was bad hubs though?

One to two hundreds of an inch is pretty tough to see or feel. I'd be curious to see how the dealership measured that.

I feel for you though man. It's so tough to know if you're dealing with techs that give a crap and actually know things these days. I haven't owned a vehicle long enough to need ball joints, etc. in probably 30yrs. Very lucky, or fortunate I guess.

 

[NH RAM]

The alignment shop said it was bad hubs though?

One to two hundreds of an inch is pretty tough to see or feel. I'd be curious to see how the dealership measured that.

I feel for you though man. It's so tough to know if you're dealing with techs that give a crap and actually know things these days. I haven't owned a vehicle long enough to need ball joints, etc. in probably 30yrs. Very lucky, or fortunate I guess.

I agree that it would be very tough to feel that small amount of movement I didn't confirm how those measurements were taken, but here's what I found searching:

LOWER BALL JOINT
To properly diagnose the lower ball joint two readings from the dial indicator are necessary, The two readings must be added together to find a total ball joint movement as identified in the steps below.

Raise and support the vehicle.
Attach a dial indicator with the indicator resting on the flat part of the steering knuckle by the lower ball stud (DIAL INDICATOR POSITION).
Set the dial indicator to zero.
NOTE: Use care not to damage the upper ball joint grease seal.

Pry between the knuckle and the axle tube yoke next to the upper ball joint, Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the first reading (FIRST READING).
Set the dial indicator back to zero.
Set up a jackstand and use a long prybar to lift the knuckle assembly (SECOND READING), pry upwards on the flat part of the steering knuckle next to the ball joint stud and nut (PRYING LOCATION) using the jackstand as leverage. Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the second reading.
Add the two reading together for a total lower ball joint movement, If this reading is above 2.29 mm (0.090 in) then replacement of the lower ball joint is necessary (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER BALL JOINT - REMOVAL).

UPPER BALL JOINT
To properly diagnose the upper ball joint two readings from the dial indicator are necessary, The two readings must be added together to find a total ball joint movement as identified in the steps below.

Raise and support the vehicle.
Attach a dial indicator with the indicator resting on either the front or back sides of the steering knuckle as close to the upper ball joint as possible (UPPER BALL JOINT MOVEMENT).
Set the dial indicator to zero.
Grab the tire by pushing in on the top of the tire and pulling out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the first reading (UPPER BALL JOINT MOVEMENT).
Set the dial indicator back to zero.
Grab the tire by pulling in on the top of the tire and pushing out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the second reading (UPPER BALL JOINT MOVEMENT).
Add the two reading together for a total upper ball joint movement, If this reading is above 1.52 mm (0.060 in) then replacement of the upper ball joint is necessary (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/UPPER BALL JOINT - REMOVAL


I do trust the dealership as they have never given me any problems fixing things that needed to be repaired. I also found out as I was picking my truck up that I occasionally work the tech's wife that worked on my truck. I talked to her after and she said he usually works on the diesel and HD trucks and the trucks that others have issues diagnosing, so that made it a little more palatable.

I haven't had to service suspension or steering components since my lifted Jeeps, and those were usually done as part of a lift and upgrade, not necessity.

 

[2015HD]

I haven't used 4wd in my 2019 yet but my 2015 2500 would definitely bind up pretty quickly in 4wd when turning wheel on surfaces that are not slick. Backing my camper up on wet grass was a little more forgiving. Never really had an issue plowing since there was always some level of 'slickness' whenever I was in 4wd.

 

[star_deceiver]

90mph in 4x4...I haven't done that yet.

- with cruise...

My guess is, out east you see much more snow and less ice without miles of open, straight, and empty freeway.

We get decent dumps of snow and it quickly turns to hard packed ice. While the ‘cruise at 90 in 4wd on hard pack’ was staged to see if cruise would work at over 85 or with 4wd, 75-80mph is not unusual. The ‘lugs and churn’ tire quickly reach their limitations when faced with speed or ice or -30*. These studs and sipes provide great stopping power!



Back on topic: When you have your wheels cranked left or right almost all the way, notice the dead spot and free play in the steering wheel when you do a little back and forth?

 

[NH RAM]

Back on topic: When you have your wheels cranked left or right almost all the way, notice the dead spot and free play in the steering wheel when you do a little back and forth?

Coming from the super tight steering feel in the 1500 (I really liked the steering feel), I notice that there is play in the 2500 moving from straight to left or right, probably due to the different steering setups on the 1500 to 2500. I also notice that even though my truck was just aligned, I feel that the steering wheel is always pointed a bit to the left; my assumption is to accommodate the crown in the roads.

 

[Narg]

To accommodate the crown in the road, wouldn't the wheel be pointed right?

 

[Dgriffi2]

I was always taught to try to avoid turning wheels unless vehicle is moving, to avoid strain on steering components. I don’t know about that today- although I can tell you it leaves patches on the new driveway!