manifold bolt diy fail

[Scottly]

i did also “splurge” and get the welding gloves.

Screw the welding gloves. They work good when you are leaning on a large work piece that transfers heat quickly. All you need for most jobs is a pair of soft goatskin gloves, so you still have some dexterity.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Yes...you ought to be able to pick a dime off the shop floor ...with a good pr of gloves

 

[Jeepwalker]

Maybe I missed it...did you get a gas, gassless or combo welder?

Ultimately a good range is a spool each of .023, .030 and .035 (solid core sizes). That gives you a range of flexibility to weld from thin to thick. I'm talking gas welding. But I guess first see if you like welding, etc ....and want to explore it more.

Next thing on your list might be an Oxy/Acetylene torch kit. Then a hoist in your shop...LOL We're going to help you spend your spare $$

 

[Slinge]

Lisle Knock off

 

[Slinge]

Lisle Knockoff

 

[62Blazer]

A previous post states they got flux core wire, which means no gas. For somebody initially just getting this stuff to weld a nut on a broken stud they don't need a gas setup or multiple size wires. If they decide to get into welding later, sure...but not for welding a nut on a broken stud.
The proper welding clothes and gloves are recommended.....but again you are just welding a nut onto a broken stud that takes about 3 seconds of weld time. The Welding Police will probably come arrest me now, but have to admit to doing a lot of this type of welding in a Tshirt and no glovels. I'm talking about these 3 to 10 second weld jobs. Sure, if I'm doing any extensive welding I will dress different.

 

[professor00]

welp looks like a quick trip back to harbor freight for .030 wire instead so i don’t have to buy a different contact tip.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Whaaaaat? And not have the memorable experience of having a round bead of weld fall down & melt through your shirt! (or through the tongue of yer shoe, and past the sock!) You guys want to take all the fun out of it!

 

[Dodge trucker]

I've welded to something like that before. I pulse the MiG til I build enough to grab to, and the weld won't stick to the aluminum. Sometimes it takes several attempts to get enough penetration with the weld to work, you'll break off several nuts before you get one stuck good enough but you'll get it. My problem seems to be starting exactly in the center of the hole in the nut, usually the arc wants to jump to the side and cover the hole in the nut instead of arcing straight in line with the wire.

 

[KerryinTN]

Here’s the part why it takes most guys several tries to get this to work, other than missing the hole.

A good weld requires clean, shiny metal, so all of that wd40 or deep creep or other penetration lubes we spray on it don’t help. If you’ve done that, spray it with some brake parts cleaner and let that dry.

Then, take a steel pick or screwdriver and scratch the head of the broken screw until most of it shows shiny metal and not the dark carbon deposits that build up around it.

Cheap welders usually have settings for metal thickness. Most don’t go above 1/4”, but that’s not relevant for this. Chances are, you’ll plug it in to a 120v outlet, set it to max, and blow your breaker in 1.5sec. Instead, if you have a generator, plug it into that. If you don’t, try setting the welder for half of it voltage dial and half of its wire speed. That should be enough to let it burn for at least 3-4 seconds a couple times per minute as you burn then inspect, then repeat.

 

[KerryinTN]

Also, because aluminum heads absorb and transfer the heat so quickly, it’s almost impossible to hurt the threads with this weld process. It’s much more likely to hurt the threads using a tool steel drill or extractor.

 

[KerryinTN]

One more thing. Since you’ll be using flux core wire, be sure to use that pick or screwdriver (or wire brush) to scrape off all of that flux residue between weld attempts. Leaving it on makes the next layer have nothing metal to stick to. You always want that bright shiny metal exposed to let the next weld melt in.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I don't advocate the 'sputter' method in this case. But that's just me. You only need one good spiral weld from the center out and onto the washer. The tack on your nut. Have your socket wrench ready to go (OP). By the time you set the welder torch down and get the socket on, it'll be all ready to go. Should walk right out.

Lot of good advice given, so you can't screw it up, right?? he he

 

[professor00]

thank you everyone! i will make some time this weekend to get the truck back onto some jackstands but i was able to get the welder to work and do some minor practice welds to get the hang of it.

 

[ToxicFire]

watching thread for outcome. Good luck.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Yeah i used a flux wire welder from harbor freight and welded a washer and then a nut to the washer and it threaded right out. Don’t have to be a great welder , practice a little beforehand

I've done this more than once with great results, there's always something in your garage that could use some welding!!

 

[aszumilo]

What you Don't want to do is get some weak sputter-type welds in the stud. If that happens, I would grind the welds off the stud with like an air die grinder with a soft-nosed carbide burr (like below ...HF sells those now too). Or a dremmel if you have one of those ...and try re-welding again.

View attachment 545007

I would not use this and an air grinder anywhere near an aluminum head. One slip and you'll really mess up the head. I would prefer to use a dremel. It is easier to control.

 

[Tony Donato]

View attachment 544895
Hello, i am wondering if anyone knows if i can save this and manage to get this bolt out myself before i end up getting the whole truck towed to a shop. i’m pretty defeated and definitely wish i had gone the welding route earlier, a mobile welder said there’s nothing left there for him to weld on to without potentially damaging the block so he declined and i have no welder/welding experience. i’ve used a left hand drill bit and extractor but obviously as the picture shows, i’ve made it worse. the bolt is also slightly below flush so absolutely nothing to grab on to.
thanks for any help

You got plenty of good advice. I was there a couple of years ago, sweating bullets. True to put in one of those extractor bits and see if you can't unscrew the bold from the manifold. That's what I did, and thank God it worked.

 

[professor00]

welp…it did not work however a HUGE thank you to everyone that replied because it at least gave me the motivation to continue the job myself. I ended up just installing the new header without a bolt in that hole…anddd surprisingly enough, no leak. I’ve driven it a couple days now and it’s still not leaking. I figured/prayed the remaining bolts would hold it tight enough and when I started it up the first time, ticking was gone. I will see how it lasts but I needed the truck running so had to do something and figured worst case i’d be back at square one with a bit of an exhaust leak but it actually sounds great now!

 

[ffeschjeff]

welp…it did not work however a HUGE thank you to everyone that replied because it at least gave me the motivation to continue the job myself. I ended up just installing the new header without a bolt in that hole…anddd surprisingly enough, no leak. I’ve driven it a couple days now and it’s still not leaking. I figured/prayed the remaining bolts would hold it tight enough and when I started it up the first time, ticking was gone. I will see how it lasts but I needed the truck running so had to do something and figured worst case i’d be back at square one with a bit of an exhaust leak but it actually sounds great now!

Did you put on a new manifold or plane the old one down? or use ramflex gaskets or anything? i'm gonna be taking the same project this weekend.