NSR and No Phaser lock Cam 2011 5.7

[Dave00]

Doing a cam/lifter replacement on my 5.7 and want to know if anybody knows any camshafts that are no springs/no phaser limiter required. Also doing MDS delete and already have non mds lifters from comp cams (856Y-16) and new OEM pushrods. Been debating on cams for a few months but have ruled out Melling stage 1/2 cams as they wont respond to me if their cams need a phaser limiter, or comp cams stage 1 because of the need for a limiter, Im in NY and dont really want my CEL on as I dont know any good tuners who could help. Ive looked at the MMX NTR-NSR cam and want to know if anybody has a better recommendation for a similar cam or any experience with the this cam.

5.7 VVT HEMI NO TUNE REQUIRED NSR MDS Performance NA Camshaft by MMX

5.7 VVT HEMI Performance Camshaft Kit - NA No Tune Required Non MDS by MMX

www.modernmusclextreme.com

 

[shortman]

I too have been looking at cams lately.... I don't think there is another cam, at least not that I have found, that promotes a power gain and without doing at least a phase limiter.... So.... Use that cam OR go with the factory NON MDS 5.7 cam...

 

[Dave00]

You say you've been looking at cams, are you thinking about one that uses a limiter? I have no experience when it comes to tuning and am trying to gauge how much of a headache it could be and cost to get my cel off and tuning out the VVT. Thinking Ill go with the MMX cam just to get that little bit of power down low and use a handheld tuner to to maximize whatever gains I can get out of it.

 

[shortman]

You say you've been looking at cams, are you thinking about one that uses a limiter? I have no experience when it comes to tuning and am trying to gauge how much of a headache it could be and cost to get my cel off and tuning out the VVT. Thinking Ill go with the MMX cam just to get that little bit of power down low and use a handheld tuner to to maximize whatever gains I can get out of it.

Yea... Been looking hard at the BTR Truck Norris which does require a limiter..... I have a Diablo i3 hand held tuner and you can just buy a premade tune form someone....

I think the MMX no tune cam is really gonna be your best option, especially, if U have a 2015 or newer because it cost A LOT for an unlocked PCM + the tune.... If, like me, you have a 2014 or older RAM then the cost is not as bad....

 

[Dave00]

Yea... Been looking hard at the BTR Truck Norris which does require a limiter..... I have a Diablo i3 hand held tuner and you can just buy a premade tune form someone....

I think the MMX no tune cam is really gonna be your best option, especially, if U have a 2015 or newer because it cost A LOT for an unlocked PCM + the tune.... If, like me, you have a 2014 or older RAM then the cost is not as bad....

I have a 2011 so un unlocked PCM, the tune I can get done for $500 from Hemifever and I'm looking to also get the diablo i3. That MMX cam seems not a lot of gain for the money almost $650. TSP Low lift Cams are on sale for $440 or $540 with a lockout so I might just go with stage 2 low lift or chopacabra, seems to be the biggest I can go without worrying about pushrods, springs etc, and Ill just get a limiter from BTR, comp cams limiters are on backorder. Truck Norris looks real good all around but I've got OEM springs and don't want to change them. I've got that unlocked pcm so I might as well take advantage of that and go with hemifever tuning.

 

[Wild one]

I have a 2011 so un unlocked PCM, the tune I can get done for $500 from Hemifever and I'm looking to also get the diablo i3. That MMX cam seems not a lot of gain for the money almost $650. TSP Low lift Cams are on sale for $440 or $540 with a lockout so I might just go with stage 2 low lift or chopacabra, seems to be the biggest I can go without worrying about pushrods, springs etc, and Ill just get a limiter from BTR, comp cams limiters are on backorder. Truck Norris looks real good all around but I've got OEM springs and don't want to change them. I've got that unlocked pcm so I might as well take advantage of that and go with hemifever tuning.

You should probably stick with a stock cam,if you have no plans of swapping out your valve springs.Valve springs do wear out/fatigue,so pretty well any after market cam you install,should also include new springs.

 

[shortman]

I have a 2011 so un unlocked PCM, the tune I can get done for $500 from Hemifever and I'm looking to also get the diablo i3. That MMX cam seems not a lot of gain for the money almost $650. TSP Low lift Cams are on sale for $440 or $540 with a lockout so I might just go with stage 2 low lift or chopacabra, seems to be the biggest I can go without worrying about pushrods, springs etc, and Ill just get a limiter from BTR, comp cams limiters are on backorder. Truck Norris looks real good all around but I've got OEM springs and don't want to change them. I've got that unlocked pcm so I might as well take advantage of that and go with hemifever tuning.

I agree with Wild One... You are gonna have the heads off anyway so super simple to swap out the springs...

 

[shortman]

@Dave00

I'll also say... For the $$ take a long look at the Stage 1 TBR cam.... They are $449 and come with the phaser lock included.... You'll need springs and such tho....

 

[Dave00]

You should probably stick with a stock cam,if you have no plans of swapping out your valve springs.Valve springs do wear out/fatigue,so pretty well any after market cam you install,should also include new springs.

You make a good point that the heads being off will make it super easy, I think it just sounded worse in my head but its a simple job it looks. Current ones are also ~140,000 miles in. I'm looking now at TSP, BTR, or FRP cams because at this point I might as well just go as big as I can without a different converter, because that's definitely something I don't want to have to do as well as its not in my budget, and it is still a daily driver I just want to have some more power all around, especially down low, and most importantly some chop to it. Thanks for your input

 

[Wild one]

You make a good point that the heads being off will make it super easy, I think it just sounded worse in my head but its a simple job it looks. Current ones are also ~140,000 miles in. I'm looking now at TSP, BTR, or FRP cams because at this point I might as well just go as big as I can without a different converter, because that's definitely something I don't want to have to do as well as its not in my budget, and it is still a daily driver I just want to have some more power all around, especially down low, and most importantly some chop to it. Thanks for your input

Going as big as you can on the cam,is not going to do your bottom end torque any favours,especially with your 5 speed. Be realistic it's a truck with a very light duty transmission,that won't take much abuse.I have a Greene 1.5HL cam in my 8 speed,it's a pretty small cam,but it could still stand a convertor for daily driving. On nitrous the stock convertor is pretty well spot on,but off the bottle it could stand more convertor.That's in a little rcsb shortbox with the 8 speed and 3.55's gears,if i wasn't spraying it alot,i'd definitely be putting a bigger convertor in the truck

 

[Wild one]

Flyin' Ryan Performance​

·

https://www.facebook.com/#
We're getting tons of calls about cams which is great, but often the calls are about a profile that does not match the application.
If you have a 5.7 car that needs torque (pursuit models, pay attention) or have a 5.7 truck that is used like a truck- hauling, off-road, heavy stuff in the bed etc , or have a 6.4 truck towing heavy- the "Hellfire 2.0" camshaft (216/226 111+4) is the perfect fit.
In testing we have seen a 40-60wtq increase at 2200 rpm , while peak whp increases by 40-60 whp in 5.7 applications. It still uses a OEM converter, and can work with VVT as well.
The HF2.0 makes 8-10 whp less than a MK82 in testing, but makes more torque from 2000-5000. In most applications the HF2.0 is the more appropriate grind to use especially if an oem converter and or highway gear ratio is being retained.
We also have a No Springs Required version of this cam.
We also have a NON-VVT (03-08 5.7) variant of this camshaft as well. This , paired with our Eagle Swap Cam Kit, is the fast track to a 475+ flywheel hp 5.7.
Call us or send us an email to get yours today.

 

[Dave00]

Flyin' Ryan Performance​

·

https://www.facebook.com/
We're getting tons of calls about cams which is great, but often the calls are about a profile that does not match the application.
If you have a 5.7 car that needs torque (pursuit models, pay attention) or have a 5.7 truck that is used like a truck- hauling, off-road, heavy stuff in the bed etc , or have a 6.4 truck towing heavy- the "Hellfire 2.0" camshaft (216/226 111+4) is the perfect fit.
In testing we have seen a 40-60wtq increase at 2200 rpm , while peak whp increases by 40-60 whp in 5.7 applications. It still uses a OEM converter, and can work with VVT as well.
The HF2.0 makes 8-10 whp less than a MK82 in testing, but makes more torque from 2000-5000. In most applications the HF2.0 is the more appropriate grind to use especially if an oem converter and or highway gear ratio is being retained.
We also have a No Springs Required version of this cam.
We also have a NON-VVT (03-08 5.7) variant of this camshaft as well. This , paired with our Eagle Swap Cam Kit, is the fast track to a 475+ flywheel hp 5.7.
Call us or send us an email to get yours today.

This is great info thanks for that. I use my truck about 50/50 regular driving which I would love a nice cam with, and as a truck with some towing (typically no more than 6,500lbs) and just hauling my dirtbikes around 190-220lbs each which I could benefit from a little power all around, and I definitely want something with a decent chop to it. Ill keep reaching out to the people at these companies and continue my own research in what I need and what and go for something pretty mild and Ill keep both the HF2.0 and Mk82 in mind. Thanks for the help Wild one

 

[Wild one]

This is great info thanks for that. I use my truck about 50/50 regular driving which I would love a nice cam with, and as a truck with some towing (typically no more than 6,500lbs) and just hauling my dirtbikes around 190-220lbs each which I could benefit from a little power all around, and I definitely want something with a decent chop to it. Ill keep reaching out to the people at these companies and continue my own research in what I need and what and go for something pretty mild and Ill keep both the HF2.0 and Mk82 in mind. Thanks for the help Wild one

Don't get hung up on the "chop" idea either. You usually give up torque and power on a basically stock application to have a choppy idle. Go for the sleeper image instead,lol. I'd rather have something that idles similiar to stock,but goes like hell,and surprises the guy beside you,when they don't pull away. Choppy idles are for the in expercienced guys,lol.

 

[Dave00]

Don't get hung up on the "chop" idea either. You usually give up torque and power on a basically stock application to have a choppy idle. Go for the sleeper image instead,lol. I'd rather have something that idles similiar to stock,but goes like hell,and surprises the guy beside you,when they don't pull away. Choppy idles are for the in expercienced guys,lol.

I love both the sleeper idea but I also love that choppy sound. Im not crazy like I need it to sound like a race truck but just a nice exhaust note. I feel like almost any cam is gonna have a little bit of chop as I want a cam with a bit lower lsa, besides exhaust is probably staying stock for a while besides maybe a muffler. Biggest thing for me regardless is that I feel that little bit of extra power when I hit the throttle.

 

[Wild one]

I love both the sleeper idea but I also love that choppy sound. Im not crazy like I need it to sound like a race truck but just a nice exhaust note. I feel like almost any cam is gonna have a little bit of chop as I want a cam with a bit lower lsa, besides exhaust is probably staying stock for a while besides maybe a muffler. Biggest thing for me regardless is that I feel that little bit of extra power when I hit the throttle.

Open up the budget to include new Mopar Performance springs,and make sure your stock pushrods are still in good shape,any nick or scratch in the pushrod,means you should repkace them to.A cam isn't something to go cheap on,as there's a good chance you'll be revving it higher on the shifts,to get the full potential out of the cam.

 

[MAC830203]

Looked over this post and have a couple thoughts and where to turn to.
BnG Dave will help you with any tune. Recommend a dyno pull before you turn over the ECU
Southeast Performance- call ask for John. The Best advice on any Mopar. Will help steer you clear of parts that don’t work together.
Also, computer cams do not like an LSA lower than 112. And that’s a bugger too.
IMO- stick with the OEM set up.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Just buy the complete kit from FRP and get HP tuners.