Perplexed New Member

[headshot001]

Recently aquired a 2013 Ram Slt with 71000 miles. Always ran a little warm (125 degrees) but with warmer weather started overheating 130 plus degrees and over 140 when towing a trailer. Repaced water pump, thermostat, belt, took off radiator and had radiator shop clean and test. Still over heats when on the interstate amd
Towing. It idles forever without getting above 203 degrees. Drives around town fine unless it’s under a load like pulling a long hill. Coolant gurgles in tank at 230 degrees. New coolant premixed. System burped till no more air bubbles from radiator then put the cap on and did the same at the neck on the engine where you burp them.

I am at a loss of the continued overheating issue.

Suggestions? TIA

 

[Wild one]

Recently aquired a 2013 Ram Slt with 71000 miles. Always ran a little warm (125 degrees) but with warmer weather started overheating 130 plus degrees and over 140 when towing a trailer. Repaced water pump, thermostat, belt, took off radiator and had radiator shop clean and test. Still over heats when on the interstate amd
Towing. It idles forever without getting above 203 degrees. Drives around town fine unless it’s under a load like pulling a long hill. Coolant gurgles in tank at 230 degrees. New coolant premixed. System burped till no more air bubbles from radiator then put the cap on and did the same at the neck on the engine where you burp them.

I am at a loss of the continued overheating issue.

Suggestions? TIA

Start with checking the easy things to check like the thermostat. Pull it,throw it in a pot of water on the stove,use a meat thermometer to monitor the water temp as you bring it up to temp,and see where the thermostat starts to open.
Also do that same check with brand new thermostats,just becuase they're new,doesn't mean they're any good ,the days of buying a new thermostat and having it being good from get-go,and lasting 10 years,are no more. Even if a new thermostat is initially good,doesn't mean it'll still be good 6 months down the road.

 

[tron67j]

All the above, and did you use OEM coolant mixed to exact specs for your year and model?

 

[Burla]

RMI 25 and check the over fill tank and see how much stuff breaks lose. If it gurgles there is air in there, could be either. My question would be if it gurgled before all of the work. Run heater too, make sure rmi25 runs through heater core.

 

[Burla]

2013 doesnt have grill shutters? Could be fan clutch as well. If all that fails, can try water wetter and 180 t stat.

 

[headshot001]

Thanks. I also did a coolant system pressure test and test to see if exhaust gases were in coolant. It runs cool most of the time. Pulled trailer to Home Depot fine and cool. Heated up on way back home. I will say it doesn’t seem to be building much pressure in the coolant system as I can easily squish the upper hose.

I used Peak oat for North American vehicles. Yes, it gurgled before the work.have replaced fan clutch.

 

[headshot001]

 

[Dean2]

In addition to the solid advice above, check your rad cap, it may not be holding the 14 psi it needs to. That will cause all kinds of issues and is often overlooked.

I buy Mopar coolant and nothing but. Too many issues with the aftermarket equivalent stuff and you don't save much compared to ordering your Mopar online from one of the wholesale, pickup local places. I can get filters and many consumable parts cheaper through Mopar than Wally World.

 

[headshot001]

I actually checked the cap several times with the pressure tester. It held 15 lbs.

 

[Dean2]

So, if there are no leaks, rad cap is good, has new fluid, thermostat checks out and fan is working right, pretty much leaves the water pump or a plugged rad as the last suspects.

 

[headshot001]

New water pump and radiator cleaned and tested.

 

[Dean2]

Was it a Mopar water pump? Have you tested the flow rate?

 

[Burla]

View attachment 542616

how can it be orange with a GM spec and not be dex cool? Read which coolant thread.

 

[Wallyb4]

Have you used a thermal gun to see what the temp is at the top vise the bottom of the radiator?

 

[headshot001]

Water pump is not a Dodge pump. The lower hose is slightly cooler that the top when it’s up to temp. I don’t have a temp gun. I just used coolamt that was oat and specified Chrysler 2013 and up. Only one in my area that I researched that might work.

 

[Burla]

Water pump is not a Dodge pump. The lower hose is slightly cooler that the top when it’s up to temp. I don’t have a temp gun. I just used coolamt that was oat and specified Chrysler 2013 and up. Only one in my area that I researched that might work.

gm cooling systems are designed to take dex, mopar coolant is not dex or dex clone, the one you chose I would bet is a dex clone. Unless this was in system before issues this isn't the issue, but dex in a Mopar product is not advisable regardless what peak says. The good news is rmi25 will take any slimmed up area in cooling system and trap the slime in the overflow where you can get it out. If you read the which coolant thread you will not peak global life has a lot of potential as a Mopar replacement. The industry has deemed "dex" and universally accepted, a quick Google search and you will see how mis guided that recommendation is.

there are many types of coolant now, dex clone, Asian coolants, universal, specific Asian coolants that aren't compatible with anything else, yada yada. Mopar coolant was well designed, well thought out, and they specifically kept dex out of it. It isn't Mopar that said use peak, it is peak and others that say dex is ok to use in xyz. In fact I do believe peak now has a Mopar clone, not the one you used.

 

[Burla]

Maybe it is zerex, I cant see a peak Mopar clone. I would try and find the sds of the product you use and look for the 2eha product, if it has it its dex. I think anything going into a GM will have that additive if they spec it, Mopar don't.

 

[Marshall]

My 2014 has rad shutters on it, not sure about the '13
I have never messed with mine, seem to work I guess.

 

[aepowell]

2013 was the first year for the shutters

 

[BigWhiteSnake]

OK, but what about the transmission temperature. That could drive up your engine temperature as well.