REACHING OUT

[Dave Haddon]

Hi there all Forum gurus. As you know like you I love my truck. So it is reaching milestone mileage. I read the service manual but wanted to get some feedback from all the experienced members on the Forum. Collectively you have more experience and suggestions than any service manual or God forbid anydealership service...
So I am approaching 100K KM..or 60K miles..are there any suggestions on major service items I should put on my list?
I regular use PUP and moly lube in the oil, Wix filters and redline engine treatment..beyond that no other service to date.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Dave...

Do you plan on keeping Warlock for the long haul?!
If so, I recommend:

Do your transmission fluid and filter service!
If you've not already... purchase the @caulk04 transmission bypass cooler valve and have it installed at the same time as the tranny service.

Have the front/rear diff fluids changed, and the transfer case fluid, too (use OEM transfer case fluid is my $0.02... the diffs.. use a premium synthetic fluid in the correct viscosity for your application).

Coolant flush & fill and new t-stat (oem fluid & t-stat).

New idler and tensioner pulleys replaced along with the serp belt.

New spark plugs (purchase from Rock Auto & look at the NGK Ruthenium HX plugs - $12USD a plug x 16 plugs).

New PCV valve (oem).

Thorough throttle body cleaning (aka TB) - removed and really scrubbed clean

Perhaps douse the system with a couple of cans of MOPAR combustion chamber cleaner... before you change the plugs, PCV valve, and clean the TB to get the gunk out.

Also consider installing an oil catch can as well... this is an invaluable maintenance improvement device for our trucks to keep the intake manifold, TB, and PCV valve systems much cleaner and more efficient.

Toss in a couple of bottles of Red Line SI-1 fuel system cleaner on an empty tank and fill with premium... change oil and filter after the tank is empty. and refill with premium to ensure a thorough fuel system cleaning....

This is exactly my regimen. Some may question and/or disagree... totally cool... however, it's worked for me for over 30 years and 25+ vehicles in that timeline.

My $0.02

 

[Mb7640]

How soon are you hitting 60k miles? Mine will be in either june or july. I take mine to the dealer for everything. I know it will be around $1600. Its similar to the 30k check. Im not going to do my transmission fluid until closer to 75k. The service advisors that owns rams did not get his done until 110k. Not sure if I want to wait that long. Mine is mostly hwy and off road a few times a year

 

[Dave Haddon]

60 K MILES will be in about 2 months...Canuck Ram has some good items on his list..liable to break ther bank but WARLOCK will be here for the long haul.
Just curious why the need for a new T stat and the idler and tensioner pulleys..can you advise Canuck Ram.?

 

[Mb7640]

I would like to hear the same seems early to me for those items

 

[Lsujker]

Dave...

Do you plan on keeping Warlock for the long haul?!
If so, I recommend:

Do your transmission fluid and filter service!
If you've not already... purchase the @caulk04 transmission bypass cooler valve and have it installed at the same time as the tranny service.

Have the front/rear diff fluids changed, and the transfer case fluid, too (use OEM transfer case fluid is my $0.02... the diffs.. use a premium synthetic fluid in the correct viscosity for your application).

Coolant flush & fill and new t-stat (oem fluid & t-stat).

New idler and tensioner pulleys replaced along with the serp belt.

New spark plugs (purchase from Rock Auto & look at the NGK Ruthenium HX plugs - $12USD a plug x 16 plugs).

New PCV valve (oem).

Thorough throttle body cleaning (aka TB) - removed and really scrubbed clean

Perhaps douse the system with a couple of cans of MOPAR combustion chamber cleaner... before you change the plugs, PCV valve, and clean the TB to get the gunk out.

Also consider installing an oil catch can as well... this is an invaluable maintenance improvement device for our trucks to keep the intake manifold, TB, and PCV valve systems much cleaner and more efficient.

Toss in a couple of bottles of Red Line SI-1 fuel system cleaner on an empty tank and fill with premium... change oil and filter after the tank is empty. and refill with premium to ensure a thorough fuel system cleaning....

This is exactly my regimen. Some may question and/or disagree... totally cool... however, it's worked for me for over 30 years and 25+ vehicles in that timeline.

My $0.02

I agree with most of this. Kind of surprised spark plugs and pcv on this list. Get the cheap preventative maintenance part. Thought modern plugs are good for 100k. The PCV, have changed this on other vehicles but is the rams unique? Usually don’t mess with this till it breaks.

Maybe the belt and tensioner. Age will affect these parts as well. I’m leaving this alone if the belt looks good… have had a balancer separate so this may not be good advice. Ha.

I would add brake fluid depending on the age.

But seriously thanks Canuckram. I’m approaching 60k miles and will follow this.

 

[CanRebel]

Don't do anything until you reach 100,000 miles. otherwise your just wasting money for no reason.

You still have at least 40K Miles to even think about doing anything but Oil changes, tires, brakes.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Have you replace ANY fluids (besides motor oil) at this point? How do you drive? Do you tow a trailer across country? Or mostly local driving/commuting?

If you haven't replaced any fluids, I'd replace all the oils with Mopar fluids (that's what I would do). Incl Trans fluid. There's a special method to do the transmission fluid, be sure you or any shop adhere's to it. You could wait till maybe 80k Miles on the tranny, fluid, but now is fine too. Change the coolant at about 100k miles.

All the other things, I would leave as is. They shouldn't need replacing already. They ought to be good to at least 100k, if not 150k. I'm talking Miles.

Do get your truck undercoated if you haven't. Esp now b/c it's not too old. These Rams do rust. And definitely squirt a bunch of oil inside the frame so it gets on the frame bottom. You'll be glad in 10 years you did. It's a box frame which is strong, but look at any box frame vehicle driven in salty conditions and they always rot along the bottom. So definitely be proactive on that. Squirt oil up around the wheel arches from the front side. And the rockers even if you have to drill a hole on the inside (plug later). And the tailgate bottom. If it looks good, you'll feel good...and 10yrs down the road it'll still look good if you help reduce rust issues.

 

[Mb7640]

Don't do anything until you reach 100,000 miles. otherwise your just wasting money for no reason.

You still have at least 40K Miles to even think about doing anything but Oil changes, tires, brakes.

I agree except witn the differential fluid i do that every 30k miles maybe its a dealership money grab. But i do all the fluid maintenance they recommend and then some. I believe in all preventive maintenance. I am a aircraft mechanic for over 30 years.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

60 K MILES will be in about 2 months...Canuck Ram has some good items on his list..liable to break ther bank but WARLOCK will be here for the long haul.
Just curious why the need for a new T stat and the idler and tensioner pulleys..can you advise Canuck Ram.?

For me personally, at 100,00Km's the pulleys and serp belt are items that can get compromised from wear. I drive a lot, for me me it's cheap insurance to ensure that I'm not in a situation where something fails. I've had those pulleys fail on previous vehicles and been stranded.

As for coolant and a t-stat... again, it's 100K (60Kmiles), and no fluid lasts forever, nor does a t-stat. I'm a predictive and preventative maintenance guy. So, for the few dollars it costs, it's worth it to me to have them changed.

Other great points made by others here, too.
Brake fluid is super important, and if you've not had it flushed & filled, it's a really good service to have done.

I have either a DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid put in (Motul or StopTech) as they are better fluids than the stock DOT3.

And spraying the vehicle as well.
My new Warlock goes in a couple to few weeks for its first full Krown application (provided it's not raining - I like a few days of dry weather after a treatment).

Best time to spray is late Spring to Early summer so the product creeps throughout all the areas it needs to, and the heat helps it do this. And yes, make sure they use their tools and get right into the frame and give it a good soaking as well.

 

[Wild one]

If it's not over heating,"Do Not" do the thermostat. Even an OEM replacement thermostat probably won't be as good as the one in the truck. These days if you get a good thermostat,you should go buy a lottery ticket,as you're lucky to get a good one.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I agree with most of this. Kind of surprised spark plugs and pcv on this list. Get the cheap preventative maintenance part. Thought modern plugs are good for 100k. The PCV, have changed this on other vehicles but is the rams unique? Usually don’t mess with this till it breaks.

Maybe the belt and tensioner. Age will affect these parts as well. I’m leaving this alone if the belt looks good… have had a balancer separate so this may not be good advice. Ha.

I would add brake fluid depending on the age.

But seriously thanks Canuckram. I’m approaching 60k miles and will follow this.

The PCV is a preventative thing, and realistically it can likely be salvaged by taking it out and using brake clean on it

What we don't want is a PCV valve to fail as it could cause real issues for our engines

As for spark plugs... sure, in today's vehicles the engines can go 100Kmiles without plugs because the computers and knock sensors are continually adjusting things as the spark plug wear out. I personally don't buy the dealers "doesn't need to be changed for ...this mileage... statement... this is how they ensure they keep charging us for their services.

Ask a dealer service advisor if our 8spd transmissions ever need servicing..lol
They will tell you it's a lifetime fluid and cannot be changed... and we all here know that's nonsense

Albeit it's not cheap to change out 16 spark plugs, but for me personally, the advantages of keeping my truck running efficiently certainly outweigh the cost.
I buy mine from Rock Auto and save a ton, and usually do them myself.

I opted for the Ruthenium HX plus on my last service with my 19' on the advice of members here and it was incredible the difference in how my truck ran, and it got me a bit better mileage, too.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

If it's not over heating,"Do Not" do the thermostat. Even an OEM replacement thermostat probably won't be as good as the one in the truck. These days if you get a good thermostat,you should go buy a lottery ticket,as you're lucky to get a good one.

This isn't untrue!
I guess I've just had really good luck with thermostats.
I do however usually take the new ones and test them myself before putting them in... just to make sure.

On this excellent point... at the very least do a coolant flush and fill & leave the OEM t-stat alone unless you've had an overheat.

 

[turkeybird56]

This isn't untrue!
I guess I've just had really good luck with thermostats.
I do however usually take the new ones and test them myself before putting them in... just to make sure.

On this excellent point... at the very least do a coolant flush and fill & leave the OEM t-stat alone unless you've had an overheat.

Not done much on mine, but than it is a Driveway Princess and sits 98.5% of the time. Just air filter, oil change & filter with lubeguard. Cosmetic stuff done like full tonneau cover, dash mat, mats, front air deflector and flap guards. MY biggest thing is: I can go a year and not even get close to my 5,000 mile OCI, so than I change it do to time period and not miles.

HECK: Been hiding in garage since yesterday afternoon due to storms. Not gonna reappear till tomorrow morning.

 

[Wild one]

This isn't untrue!
I guess I've just had really good luck with thermostats.
I do however usually take the new ones and test them myself before putting them in... just to make sure.

On this excellent point... at the very least do a coolant flush and fill & leave the OEM t-stat alone unless you've had an overheat.

The days of getting a good T-stat that lasts for 10 years are behind us,lol. Always test a new T-stat these days,but that still doesn't guarantee it'll last more then a couple months.

 

[RamDiver]

The days of getting a good T-stat that lasts for 10 years are behind us,lol. Always test a new T-stat these days,but that still doesn't guarantee it'll last more then a couple months.

Do you have any preferred T-stat replacement type over OEM and why?

.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Only use if you are setup for the 180° thermostat

Gen 3 Hemi 180° High Flow Thermostat

Tired of crappy thermostats failing within a short time? Whether it's for your Hellcat, your 392", your 5.7L engine, or most everything in between, this thermostat will fit the bill. Quality, handmade in the United States with a renowned Robertshaw core. Robertshaw invented the thermostat. With...

griffsperformanceshop.com

 

[Wild one]

Only use if you are setup for the 180° thermostat

Gen 3 Hemi 180° High Flow Thermostat

Tired of crappy thermostats failing within a short time? Whether it's for your Hellcat, your 392", your 5.7L engine, or most everything in between, this thermostat will fit the bill. Quality, handmade in the United States with a renowned Robertshaw core. Robertshaw invented the thermostat. With...

griffsperformanceshop.com

Thats not even a great thermostat,i've had 2 of them fail.I've yet to find a t-stat as good as what we used to get years ago.

 

[Jeepwalker]

A lot of aftermarket parts are inferior to what comes on your truck. Even Mopar parts ...as was suggested above. You might replace 3 aftermarket idler pulleys to one OEM pulley (that came on the tk). Therefore unless they're making noise, I personally would leave them. But up to you. I guess a guy can never be too cautious. But where do ya stop?

 

[crackerjack1957]

Thats not even a great thermostat,i've had 2 of them fail.I've yet to find a t-stat as good as what we used to get years ago.

This thermostat is about $20 more than a Milodon