Wire Diagrams Needed 2018 1500

[Redcup]

I am hoping someone would have the wiring diagrams for what is under the driver's side dash. Specifically the harness by the kick panel. It is for a Canadian 2018 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman Crew Cab. I purchased this truck a few weeks ago and am removing all the shotty wiring done by the previous owner. That was until I crawled under the dash and was met with this mess.

There are a bunch of wires coming out of the floor and some go up to this blue plug. That white box it is plugged into is attached to the firewall and looks factory. There is also a wire going from the harness on the floor. It is electrical taped to the orange wire which I am assuming is for illumination. I don't want to start cutting things before I find out what everything is attached to. The truck has the factory alarm and remote start. And there is nothing aftermarket in the rear passenger area. Or at least there isn't now. I can provide more pictures and am comfortable taking stuff apart. I just don't know the fancy names for things...

 

[SitKneelBend]

I am hoping someone would have the wiring diagrams for what is under the driver's side dash. Specifically the harness by the kick panel. It is for a Canadian 2018 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman Crew Cab. I purchased this truck a few weeks ago and am removing all the shotty wiring done by the previous owner. That was until I crawled under the dash and was met with this mess.

There are a bunch of wires coming out of the floor and some go up to this blue plug. That white box it is plugged into is attached to the firewall and looks factory. There is also a wire going from the harness on the floor. It is electrical taped to the orange wire which I am assuming is for illumination. I don't want to start cutting things before I find out what everything is attached to. The truck has the factory alarm and remote start. And there is nothing aftermarket in the rear passenger area. Or at least there isn't now. I can provide more pictures and am comfortable taking stuff apart. I just don't know the fancy names for things...

Yikes, luckily, none of it looks factory...this site will help.

https://connectorrepairkit.mopar.com/

 

[Redcup]

Yikes, luckily, none of it looks factory...this site will help.

https://connectorrepairkit.mopar.com/

Does a bit but I have no idea what I am looking at under the dash so wouldn't know what harnesses to repair. Especially the group of wires that go up the dash and into a larger harness. Guessing it is the BCM?

 

[SitKneelBend]

Does a bit but I have no idea what I am looking at under the dash so wouldn't know what harnesses to repair. Especially the group of wires that go up the dash and into a larger harness. Guessing it is the BCM

Post some pictures and you'll get help. It is likely the BCM but if you are unsure just add the picture here and someone will know. In your original post the white block with all of the connectors is the BCM. Here is what you want to filter on to see the functions of each connector and wire color (change the year to match yours though)...

 

[Redcup]

Post some pictures and you'll get help. It is likely the BCM but if you are unsure just add the picture here and someone will know. In your original post the white block with all of the connectors is the BCM. Here is what you want to filter on to see the functions of each connector and wire color (change the year to match yours though)...

View attachment 549964

This is the best I can do. I tried contorting myself to get under the dash it was no bueno. The more I remove trim the worse it gets!

The first two are looking straight at the harness on the floor next to the dead pedal. The third one is looking up into the dash towards the A pillar and firewall. The last picture is removing the kick panel and realizing it only gets worse. The red and black wires either go under the carpet to the passenger's side or follows the channel to the rear of the truck. I will need a couple nice days to rip all the trim out and carpet to better follow those wires.

 

[SitKneelBend]

This is the best I can do. I tried contorting myself to get under the dash it was no bueno. The more I remove trim the worse it gets!

The first two are looking straight at the harness on the floor next to the dead pedal. The third one is looking up into the dash towards the A pillar and firewall. The last picture is removing the kick panel and realizing it only gets worse. The red and black wires either go under the carpet to the passenger's side or follows the channel to the rear of the truck. I will need a couple nice days to rip all the trim out and carpet to better follow those wires.

OK, on the white BCM (the blue connector) I think is this...




If you find which pins it's tapping you might have a better idea of what they are used for. I see some wiring in their that almost looks like someone added OEM remote start after the fact on the body control C7/A plug of the BCM (the purple wire hanging down in your pictures). Do you have remote start on your FOB?

I also see a cut wire to an inline fuse holder that might be running to the same C7/A connection but unsure.

Does any of this help? I'd pop the door jamb trim off and see where those wires run . I'm hoping they are using them to signal something to power on as opposed to sharing power. If you can identify the color of the wires the are tapped into with a two color code you can more easily see what they may have done.

 

[Redcup]

OK, on the white BCM (the blue connector) I think is this...

View attachment 550187


If you find which pins it's tapping you might have a better idea of what they are used for. I see some wiring in their that almost looks like someone added OEM remote start after the fact on the body control C7/A plug of the BCM (the purple wire hanging down in your pictures). Do you have remote start on your FOB?

I also see a cut wire to an inline fuse holder that might be running to the same C7/A connection but unsure.

Does any of this help? I'd pop the door jamb trim off and see where those wires run . I'm hoping they are using them to signal something to power on as opposed to sharing power. If you can identify the color of the wires the are tapped into with a two color code you can more easily see what they may have done.

I'll try to get better shots of the harnesses. The truck has factory remote start (options in radio and the button on my fob). I do have lights on the running board that turn on when I open the door or hit lock/unlock. Would using the pin "Courtesy Lamp Driver" turn those off and on? As for the hanging fuse, the one end is cut. I really hope it isn't live! I'll try to pull the fuse so at least it isn't a bare live wire floating around. I'll be on duty at the fire house on Monday and can use the garage to try and get better photos and maybe do some tracing.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I'll try to get better shots of the harnesses. The truck has factory remote start (options in radio and the button on my fob). I do have lights on the running board that turn on when I open the door or hit lock/unlock. Would using the pin "Courtesy Lamp Driver" turn those off and on? As for the hanging fuse, the one end is cut. I really hope it isn't live! I'll try to pull the fuse so at least it isn't a bare live wire floating around. I'll be on duty at the fire house on Monday and can use the garage to try and get better photos and maybe do some tracing.

My bet is it is live as I can't think of a reason to fuse a ground? What you really want to do is take a picture of the wire color that is tapped and the connector it's plugged into on the BCM. You can get better access by removing the driver side vent and headlight switch but unless you have really thin forearms it doesn't help much (I put a flashlight there to free up my hands). If you can get something high enough to the door jamb to lay on it helps ALOT when working in that area and sometimes the best way to work there is to unplug everything for a little more slack...it still sucks though.

As for the running board lights, that may be it. As far as OEM remote start check this site with your VIN to see if it was equipped from the factory (it's fairly easy to add OEM remote start).

FCA RAM

fcagroup.my.site.com

 

[Redcup]

My bet is it is live as I can't think of a reason to fuse a ground? What you really want to do is take a picture of the wire color that is tapped and the connector it's plugged into on the BCM. You can get better access by removing the driver side vent and headlight switch but unless you have really thin forearms it doesn't help much (I put a flashlight there to free up my hands). If you can get something high enough to the door jamb to lay on it helps ALOT when working in that area and sometimes the best way to work there is to unplug everything for a little more slack...it still sucks though.

As for the running board lights, that may be it. As far as OEM remote start check this site with your VIN to see if it was equipped from the factory (it's fairly easy to add OEM remote start).

FCA RAM

fcagroup.my.site.com

I don't see anything on the build sheet that says remote start. Only "remote entry with all secure" and "sentry key theft deterrent system". I attached the sheet as I may have missed something.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I don't see anything on the build sheet that says remote start. Only "remote entry with all secure" and "sentry key theft deterrent system". I attached the sheet as I may have missed something.

If equipped from the factory, one of the lines will say "REMOTE START SYSTEM".

So it appears that purple wire may be the previous owner adding the factory remote start. There are two ways really to do this, the cheap way is to ground a pin from the BCM C1 connector right there next to it. The other way (AKA the correct way) is to buy a new hood latch and wire the system like the factory does to monitor the hood ajar sensor. The quickest way to identify what was done on your truck is to pop the hood and with it ajar see if it will remote start. You can also look and see if the hood latch has a two wire connector connected to it (but operation is the best indicator IMO).

 

[Jim BB]

I am hoping someone would have the wiring diagrams for what is under the driver's side dash. Specifically the harness by the kick panel. It is for a Canadian 2018 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman Crew Cab. I purchased this truck a few weeks ago and am removing all the shotty wiring done by the previous owner. That was until I crawled under the dash and was met with this mess.

There are a bunch of wires coming out of the floor and some go up to this blue plug. That white box it is plugged into is attached to the firewall and looks factory. There is also a wire going from the harness on the floor. It is electrical taped to the orange wire which I am assuming is for illumination. I don't want to start cutting things before I find out what everything is attached to. The truck has the factory alarm and remote start. And there is nothing aftermarket in the rear passenger area. Or at least there isn't now. I can provide more pictures and am comfortable taking stuff apart. I just don't know the fancy names for things...

try this looks really good !( CHARM.LI )

 

[Redcup]

If equipped from the factory, one of the lines will say "REMOTE START SYSTEM".

So it appears that purple wire may be the previous owner adding the factory remote start. There are two ways really to do this, the cheap way is to ground a pin from the BCM C1 connector right there next to it. The other way (AKA the correct way) is to buy a new hood latch and wire the system like the factory does to monitor the hood ajar sensor. The quickest way to identify what was done on your truck is to pop the hood and with it ajar see if it will remote start. You can also look and see if the hood latch has a two wire connector connected to it (but operation is the best indicator IMO).

I popped the hood and when I tried remote starting the dash read "Remote Start Cancelled Hood Ajar". Maybe it was originally the cobbled together remote start and later the previous owner did it the correct way. I did notice that there are two 2 pin connecters at the hood latch. One is new and plugged in with its own splitloom and goes through the firewall. The other one is older looking with corrosion and shorter and it comes out of the engine(?) loom.

try this looks really good !( CHARM.LI )

I tried that and it only goes up to 2013. Thanks though.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I popped the hood and when I tried remote starting the dash read "Remote Start Cancelled Hood Ajar". Maybe it was originally the cobbled together remote start and later the previous owner did it the correct way. I did notice that there are two 2 pin connecters at the hood latch. One is new and plugged in with its own splitloom and goes through the firewall. The other one is older looking with corrosion and shorter and it comes out of the engine(?) loom.



I tried that and it only goes up to 2013. Thanks though.

Ok, that means they either used the factory add-on kit or made it themselves. If that purple wire is going to pin 11 on the BCM C1 connector that is what you see coming from the switch to the firewall. I'd just tuck it away a little more nicely and call that one solved.

 

[Redcup]

Ok, that means they either used the factory add-on kit or made it themselves. If that purple wire is going to pin 11 on the BCM C1 connector that is what you see coming from the switch to the firewall. I'd just tuck it away a little more nicely and call that one solved.

View attachment 550249

The purple wire is going to pin 11. As for the plug at the bottom, that was powering the two running board lights. They tapped into C7/G pin 11 for ground and pin 14 for power. And also ran a fused ground to the ground tap in the kick panel. The harness on the floor that had one wire coming out was tapped into the something that triggered when the lights came on. Everything was wrapped around a bare section of the plug wires. A little tug and they just came off. And no the running board lights were not connected to a relay. They were both powered from pin 14. I will be doing the rear seat mod soon and when I pull that seat out I will deal with the wire mess in the back. Oh and that ground tap, the bolt was finger tight. What a **** show...

I will also redo the wiring for the running board lights. Is there a safe place I can tap into for the courtesy lights? I plan on just using that as a signal wire to trigger a relay. Should I just reuse pin 14? And thanks for you help. You sent me down the right path and I didn't electrocute myself or start my truck on fire.

 

[SitKneelBend]

The purple wire is going to pin 11. As for the plug at the bottom, that was powering the two running board lights. They tapped into C7/G pin 11 for ground and pin 14 for power. And also ran a fused ground to the ground tap in the kick panel. The harness on the floor that had one wire coming out was tapped into the something that triggered when the lights came on. Everything was wrapped around a bare section of the plug wires. A little tug and they just came off. And no the running board lights were not connected to a relay. They were both powered from pin 14. I will be doing the rear seat mod soon and when I pull that seat out I will deal with the wire mess in the back. Oh and that ground tap, the bolt was finger tight. What a **** show...

I will also redo the wiring for the running board lights. Is there a safe place I can tap into for the courtesy lights? I plan on just using that as a signal wire to trigger a relay. Should I just reuse pin 14? And thanks for you help. You sent me down the right path and I didn't electrocute myself or start my truck on fire.

Sounds like you got it man! I would just reuse the trigger that they were using for power. Your spot on for using that to trigger a relay, just run the 12v power into the relay, then use their old tap for the trigger. It will be a much better setup with the relay in to power those lights.

 

[bm02tj]

If you are on good terms with your local dealer parts they can print you needed wiring diagrams
A box of donuts may help