2012 Ram 1500 5.7 No Power

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UpstateNY2012

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Hi all,

I just went outside to pick up my little guy from school and my truck wouldn't start. No power at all when I opened the door and inserted the key. Nothing. I figured I must have left something on when I and drained the battery. Grabbed a jumper pack and still nothing. Pulled the battery terminals cleaned them off and reconnected. When I got back in the truck I saw a solid red dot on the dashboard that went away for a minute or two. A quick GOOGLE search showed that this is the ant-theft system indicator. I've been searching the internet for a solution but I'm having no luck with anything. I was hoping someone here might be able to help. (Cross-posted from Electronics to get more visibility.)

Thanks!

Update:

I pulled the battery and found some moisture underneath where that bolt is. It looks rusted so this can be the first time it's gotten wet. Also a space next to the battery had a small amount of water. We did get rain all day yesterday. I've attached the pics for reference.

Edit:
2012 ram 1500 5.7 4x4
 

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Jeepwalker

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Sounds like the battery. I had something very similar to that happen some yrs ago. It turned out to be a failed battery. The funny thing is I had been driving it all morning and then it just failed. It voltage-tested fine (well, a little low), but spectacularly failed a load test. I wasn't able to jump start the vehicle either.

My suggestion would be to try to jump start it. If it runs then test the alternator output across the battery terminals (13.8-14.25Volts). There's a possibility the alternator isn't charging.

If you have some time to spare and you have a battery charger, put the charger on the batt (10A) for 5 hours, and then 'auto charge' overnight. Then take the battery to get load tested at Autozone/OReilly....or NAPA.

If you don't have time to spare and you never saw the alternator light come on (or gauge go down) ...then just take the battery to get tested or buy a load tester HERE.
 

Jeepwalker

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The other possibilities if the battery checks out 'good' are:

1) WIN Module need cleaning. Just type in 'Chrysler WIN Module' into Youtube and you'll see.

2) Starter (but I doubt it..at this point)
 

Jeepwalker

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Be sure to mix up a baking soda and water mix and brush it around the battery tray ...and give it a good cleaning before putting a battery in.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Sounds like the battery. I had something very similar to that happen some yrs ago. It turned out to be a failed battery. The funny thing is I had been driving it all morning and then it just failed. It voltage-tested fine (well, a little low), but spectacularly failed a load test. I wasn't able to jump start the vehicle either.

My suggestion would be to try to jump start it. If it runs then test the alternator output across the battery terminals (13.8-14.25Volts). There's a possibility the alternator isn't charging.

If you have some time to spare and you have a battery charger, put the charger on the batt (10A) for 5 hours, and then 'auto charge' overnight. Then take the battery to get load tested at Autozone/OReilly....or NAPA.

If you don't have time to spare and you never saw the alternator light come on (or gauge go down) ...then just take the battery to get tested or buy a load tester HERE.
I swapped the battery out of my wife's truck and there was no change. I threw my battery on the charger overnight just to give it a shot in the morning.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Be sure to mix up a baking soda and water mix and brush it around the battery tray ...and give it a good cleaning before putting a battery.
The other possibilities if the battery checks out 'good' are:

1) WIN Module need cleaning. Just type in 'Chrysler WIN Module' into Youtube and you'll see.

2) Starter (but I doubt it..at this point)
I'll clean up the tray tomorrow like you suggested before I put my battery back in.

I just GOOGLED the WIN Module and will dive into the videos. Thank you. Would a bad WIN Module cause the symptoms I'm experiencing? Even the dome light won't come on when I open the door. It's like its completely dead but I've tested my battery and swapped in the battery from my wife's truck and the same result. The only thing I get is a red dot on the dash that goes away after a minute or two.

I appreciate your help. Thank you!
 

Jeepwalker

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IDK about the dome lights.... That almost sounds like main-power type thing. The WIN module is more for starting the vehicle. So, maybe watch the WIN videos, but don't dig into it untill you're sure the main power is good.

What you might want to do is

1) Check the main cable where it attaches to the fusebox. Make sure it's not corroded or loose. And there is a metal strap from where the cable bolts to.....that little metal strap (metal band) acts like a 'fuse'. Make sure that's good.

2) Verify the cable ends are good ...for sure. Not corroded.

3) Check the fuses/Relays. Some owners have reported that the fuses work themselves "up" over time. Push them down...make sure they're seated. Maybe even verify they are all good with a multimeter. See if you have power at the dome light fuse (with 'good' battery installed). There's always a remote possibility the door switch just failed at the same time...you never know. But there'd be power at the fuse anyway. There is the RUN Accessory Relay and another main Run Relay next to it...you might try swapping them for 'like' relays. And/or Ohm them out/replace.

4) Verify your grounds are solid-good. Find and loosen and re-tighten the engine ground. And the body ground.

5) There is a little plastic door above the driver's side plastic inner wheel liner (look "up" above the tire) ...there are some major grounds in that area. As I recall. Mine actually were darn rusty! Make sure those are good and clean on your vehicle.

6) There is another set of major grounds back by the gas tank filler tube, on the driver's side ...inside behind where you put gas in. Check those and clean if they're rusty.

7) If after doing all that. Check the battery connection on the starter is not loose.

8) After all that, if nothing, you might wiggle the big bundle of wires underneath your fusebox area. They go to the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) ...which is the main computer..."Brains". You might even have someone inside the truck cab while you are wiggling to see if the light's DO come on. The wires beneath the TIPM can corrode in rust-belt environments..to the point where some people have had to replace the entire connector. It's not real common, but a 2012...in NY... you never know. Do a Y/T search for corroded TIPM or Ram Computer connector...something like that. Or a corroded pin/s at the computer. If you get to the point of looking at those wires and corrosion inside the connector, observe very carefully EACH wire going to the connectors for possible swelling, indicating corrosion or shorts. Remember that in 2013 Chrysler made significant changes to the wiring and electronics, so just beware in your searches that 2012 and below is a bit different.

Don't jump to conclusions on the computer. They are rarely the problem...but sometimes they are. There was a real issue in the early ones with fuel pump relays...but that doesn't seem to be your truck's issue. Start with the easy things first (cause they're usually the culprit), check the battery, cables, fuses/relays/Grounds, and all the other things on the list above. There are helpful videos on about every electrical aspect on these Rams.

.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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2012
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IDK about the dome lights.... That almost sounds like main-power type thing. The WIN module is more for starting the vehicle. So, maybe watch the WIN videos, but don't dig into it untill you're sure the main power is good.

What you might want to do is

1) Check the main cable where it attaches to the fusebox. Make sure it's not corroded or loose. And there is a metal strap from where the cable bolts to.....that little metal strap (metal band) acts like a 'fuse'. Make sure that's good.

2) Verify the cable ends are good ...for sure. Not corroded.

3) Check the fuses/Relays. Some owners have reported that the fuses work themselves "up" over time. Push them down...make sure they're seated. Maybe even verify they are all good with a multimeter. See if you have power at the dome light fuse (with 'good' battery installed). There's always a remote possibility the door switch just failed at the same time...you never know. But there'd be power at the fuse anyway. There is the RUN Accessory Relay and another main Run Relay next to it...you might try swapping them for 'like' relays. And/or Ohm them out/replace.

4) Verify your grounds are solid-good. Find and loosen and re-tighten the engine ground. And the body ground.

5) There is a little plastic door above the driver's side plastic inner wheel liner (look "up" above the tire) ...there are some major grounds in that area. As I recall. Mine actually were darn rusty! Make sure those are good and clean on your vehicle.

6) There is another set of major grounds back by the gas tank filler tube, on the driver's side ...inside behind where you put gas in. Check those and clean if they're rusty.

7) If after doing all that. Check the battery connection on the starter is not loose.

8) After all that, if nothing, you might wiggle the big bundle of wires underneath your fusebox area. They go to the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) ...which is the main computer..."Brains". You might even have someone inside the truck cab while you are wiggling to see if the light's DO come on. The wires beneath the TIPM can corrode in rust-belt environments..to the point where some people have had to replace the entire connector. It's not real common, but a 2012...in NY... you never know. Do a Y/T search for corroded TIPM or Ram Computer connector...something like that. Or a corroded pin/s at the computer. If you get to the point of looking at those wires and corrosion inside the connector, observe very carefully EACH wire going to the connectors for possible swelling, indicating corrosion or shorts. Remember that in 2013 Chrysler made significant changes to the wiring and electronics, so just beware in your searches that 2012 and below is a bit different.

Don't jump to conclusions on the computer. They are rarely the problem...but sometimes they are. There was a real issue in the early ones with fuel pump relays...but that doesn't seem to be your truck's issue. Start with the easy things first (cause they're usually the culprit), check the battery, cables, fuses/relays/Grounds, and all the other things on the list above. There are helpful videos on about every electrical aspect on these Rams.

.
Went through the fuse box and tested all the fuses - made sure they are seated. They are all good as far as I can tell. The vehicle grounds check ok.

1. I can manually turn on the dome light and the two other lights near the rearview mirror. The bed light will also come on if I press the button.
2. The power mirrors function.
3. When I open the door to the car nothing comes on on its own - it seems like the battery is dead but it's not. The truck battery is working fine - tested it in my wife's truck. I also swapped her battery into mine for additional testing.
3. If I press the bed light button the red anti-theft light comes on for about 30 seconds or so and then shuts off
4. The WIN is getting power. I checked that as well.
5. If seems like something is preventing the truck from turning on. Like it's locked out.

Thanks for all the help so far. I'm going to go back through and double-check everything you mentioned. Nothing is every easy!
 

Jeepwalker

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....Nothing is every easy!

Very true...when it comes to electrical stuff.

Try having someone in the cab of the truck...maybe even trying to start it...while you wiggle the big relays ...or tap on them with a screwdriver handle, and also wiggle the big bundle of wires beneath the fuse box.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Very true...when it comes to electrical stuff.

Try having someone in the cab of the truck...maybe even trying to start it...while you wiggle the big relays ...or tap on them with a screwdriver handle, and also wiggle the big bundle of wires beneath the fuse box.
No luck Jeepwalker. During my YouTube search, I did find this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljtNEmkFHjc&ab_channel=AutomotiveTestSolutions. This situation is very close to what I'm dealing with other than my dash lights won't come on. I think I'm going to have to throw in the towel at this point and have it towed to the dealer.

Thanks again for all your suggestions. I do appreciate it.
 

Daw14

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I would locate and clean whatever grounds you can .not sure if there’s fuses at the terminals, but ?
 

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