Can I use a slightly wider wheel?

[HangmanNY]

Fellas,

I have a 2015 ram 1500 bighorn . 160,000 miles.

My current set of 20” tires are shot. When they were put on north, I had a very slight shimmy in one of the wheels. Since they did the alignment, I brought it back. He said one of my wheels was “not right”. I’ve lived with it for the past three years..


I bought an Eibach Pro front struts (with new springs), Eibach Pro rear shocks (with new spings). I believe that will lift the truck between 2 and 3 inches. And I bought the Core 4x4 upper control arms. I bought it from Nick here. I believe he also mentioned the longer heavy duty “suspension max” swaybar links. I haven’t purchased those yet. Would that be recommended to change the front and the rear sway bar links?

I’ve had the stuff in the garage for over a year because I broke my leg last February. Long recovery back then at age 64. plan on changing the wheel hubs/bearings, outer tie rod ends, and ball joints.

I’m going to have a local garage install the Eibach Pro, springs, struts & shocks, and core 4x4 control arms.

This vehicle is going to be strictly for street use . We also plan on getting @ 24 foot travel camper. I plan on changing the wheels/rims. I believe the factory rims were 9 inches wide (275-60/R20).

I’d like to know if it’s possible to use a 10 inch wide rim? I don’t know much about offset possibilities? It’s all new to me.

And I don’t know if the height of the tire can be slightly increased due to the 3” lift. I believe they may have been 33 inch high factory tires. And who is making very good tires for these trucks? And wheels/rims?

I also plan on changing the rear stabilizer bar to the Hellwig one.

Thanks for any helpful advice on this.

 

[rzr6-4]

As long as you run a modest offset/backspacing you should have no problem with a 10" wheel, especially with the new lift.

With the the lift you will also be able to run 35s if you want to go up from your current 33s. Going to 35s will make you lose some torque though, once in a while is doable but since you are wanting to pull a somewhat large trailer by 1500 standards I would probly stick with the 33s if you plan to pull it often.

 

[HangmanNY]

As long as you run a modest offset/backspacing you should have no problem with a 10" wheel, especially with the new lift.

With the the lift you will also be able to run 35s if you want to go up from your current 33s. Going to 35s will make you lose some torque though, once in a while is doable but since you are wanting to pull a somewhat large trailer by 1500 standards I would probly stick with the 33s if you plan to pull it often.

Thanks! Like I said, this is all new to me. If I do go to a 10 inch wide wheel/rim can you explain what the various “offsets” mean? Obviously, I don’t want the wheels to rub against anything. The truck should be 2 to 3 inches higher with the new struts, shocks, 4 springs, and CORE 4x4 control arms.

And do you have any recommendations about these end links? I’m assuming they have to be longer or at least adjustable?

Thanks

 

[rzr6-4]

Thanks! Like I said, this is all new to me. If I do go to a 10 inch wide wheel/rim can you explain what the various “offsets” mean? Obviously, I don’t want the wheels to rub against anything. The truck should be 2 to 3 inches higher with the new struts, shocks, 4 springs, and CORE 4x4 control arms.

And do you have any recommendations about these end links? I’m assuming they have to be longer or at least adjustable?

Thanks

A large positive offset aka large backspacing will tuck the wheels into the wheel well, and will cause you to rub on control arms or tie rods when you steer to lock one way or the other. A large negative offset aka small backspacing will push the wheels out more for a wider stance, and too much will cause the tire to rub the fender and/or bumper when turning.

I would use the custom offsets gallery to look at different sizes to see what other people are running to get the look you like. It's hard to just give you one set of numbers to use, so spend some time looking at options there.

As for the sway bar, I have removed it from both of my trucks if that tells you anything. If you are on stock suspension and plan to tow with a 1500 you probly don't want to do that though. I have no experience with suspension max as a brand.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Listen to those that know lifts. Stock works but once you install a lift. You quickly move away from stock.

As to wider wheels, 10 wide will work 35s will reset your miles per gallon quickly. Especially if you have 3.92s

If you're going to stick a TT behind it, you probably want to think about core or other brand rear control arms. And I would not overlook the Roadmaster rear bar from etrailer. It's thicker than the hellwig and similar priced. Is the only bar I'll run.

Lots of choices. Good luck

 

[diymirage]

@HangmanNY do you understand how backspacing works?

Because if you do, I can try to explain offset in the light of backspacing, but if that isn't a term you are comfortable with then I'm not going to muddy the waters for you

 

[HangmanNY]

Of course, I would like to learn more about how offsets work. That’s why I’m asking questions before I buy a set of new 20” wheels. I’ll be sticking with the stock 33 inch high tires. I don’t know if the factory 9” rims are still ideal? Or whether the 10 inch wide rims can work?

 

[HangmanNY]

Listen to those that know lifts. Stock works but once you install a lift. You quickly move away from stock.

As to wider wheels, 10 wide will work 35s will reset your miles per gallon quickly. Especially if you have 3.92s

If you're going to stick a TT behind it, you probably want to think about core or other brand rear control arms. And I would not overlook the Roadmaster rear bar from etrailer. It's thicker than the hellwig and similar priced. Is the only bar I'll run.

Lots of choices. Good luck

Is there a link to any other Core products for the rear of my truck? Thanks

 

[RamDiver]

Is there a link to any other Core products for the rear of my truck? Thanks

Https://core4x4.com

For those who think it's easier to annoy you than to Google 'Https://core4x4.com' themselves.

letmegooglethat.com

.

 

[Dean2]

The stock 9" factory rim will work fine with tires up to 12" wide. If I was buying new rims however, I would be looking at 18"x9 with a factory offset. Way more tires to select from and the tires are at least $100 each cheaper than the same tire in 20". We have a lot of potholes, I like more sidewall, and I like the look.

Offset affects how much your tires stick out past the fenders. I want mine inside the fenders so they don't throw mud and rocks all over the side of the pickup. Also, the more you move the tires/rims outward, the more stress you place on bearings, and the rest of your front end parts. I would stick as close to factory offset as you can get.

With respect to lift. There is no advantage to a lifted PU on pavement beyond appearance. There are however lots of negatives like a lot poorer mileage, not as stable due to raising the centre of gravity, not as good for towing and faster wear of all the running gear.

As long as you are aware of these things, then it is your choice if the appearance is worth the other drawbacks.

 

[TradesmanGuy]

I looked into spacers, for some inexpensive negative offset. Would look good, but at an uncertain cost, that might be small or great. The wheel/tire weight becomes leveraged putting extra forces on everything beyond the wheel and tire. Just not worth it.

 

[diymirage]

Of course, I would like to learn more about how offsets work. That’s why I’m asking questions before I buy a set of new 20” wheels. I’ll be sticking with the stock 33 inch high tires. I don’t know if the factory 9” rims are still ideal? Or whether the 10 inch wide rims can work?

Cool

One thing we need from you is the width of the tires you wish to use

If I read it right, you now have 275/60-20s and you want...well, what do you truly want ?
Do you want new rims, or new tires ?
You mentioned 33s, buts the stock tires ARE pretty darn close to 33s, just measured in sillymeters

if you want a tire that says "33" you can get 33x11.5, which is about 3/4 of an inch wider then stock and still acceptable for a 9 inch rim

(Here is a good website to enter tire sizes in to see what the difference is)

275/60-R20 vs 33/12.5-R20 Tire Comparison - Tire Size Calculator | Tacoma World

33/12.5-R20 tires are 0.03 inches (0.72 mm) larger in diameter than 275/60-R20 tires and the speedometer difference is 0.1%

www.tacomaworld.com

NOw, if you want new rims, you need to understand the difference in backspace and off set

(Personally, I prefer backspace)

Back space is simple, you measure from the back of the mounting surface of a wheel to the very edge of the bead

So a 9 inch wheel with a 4 inch backspacing will measure 4 inches from the back of the surface to the edge of the bead

The cool thing is, if you have a 12 inch wide wheel with 4 inches of backspacing...that number is the same (those 3 extra inches get pushed out the fenders)

Now, offset is measured by taking the formula "backspacing - centerline = offset"
Where centerline is the middle of the wheel, so half the width

So, a 9 inch wheel with 4 inches of backspace "4 - (9:2) = offset"
4 -4.5 = -0.5 , half an inch negative offset

That same 12 inch wheel with 4 inches of backspacing becomes "4 - (12:2) = -2) so 2 inches of negative offset

And then it all need to be changed into sillymeters again, so to me, backspacing is just easier

 

[diymirage]

The stock 9" factory rim will work fine with tires up to 12" wide. If I was buying new rims however, I would be looking at 18"x9 with a factory offset. Way more tires to select from and the tires are at least $100 each cheaper than the same tire in 20". We have a lot of potholes, I like more sidewall, and I like the look.

I wasn't gonna bring this up , but I totally agree, I always run the smallest rims that will clear the brakes


And personally, I love seeing some sidewall on a tire

 

[HangmanNY]

Https://core4x4.com

For those who think it's easier to annoy you than to Google 'Https://core4x4.com' themselves.

letmegooglethat.com

.

I already contact CORE earlier. I get an automated response that someone will get back to me and up to 48 hours. Not impressed with that.

 

[HangmanNY]

I wasn't gonna bring this up , but I totally agree, I always run the smallest rims that will clear the brakes


And personally, I love seeing some sidewall on a tire

But if the truck came with original 20 inch wheels shouldn’t I at least stick with that? Since the truck will be sitting an extra 2 1/2 to 3 inches higher. We are in Florida and the roads are much better down here than they were up north.

 

[Dean2]

The Ram pickups have 18 inch as standard and 20 in wheels as an option on some models. You can use either. Compare the price of the 20 inch and 18 inch tires you want to use. See if the price difference is enough to matter to you.

 

[diymirage]

But if the truck came with original 20 inch wheels shouldn’t I at least stick with that? Since the truck will be sitting an extra 2 1/2 to 3 inches higher. We are in Florida and the roads are much better down here than they were up north.

you want to look at the complete package, as mentioned, your truck could be had with 18s as well as 20s from the factory
overal diameter and width are the things to consider here

i will admit there are times that a stiffer (shorter) sidewall has its advantages, but i have never seen that be the case in a truck

with the roads you mentioned and you not planning on doing any offroading, there are only two things to consider when deciding if you want 18, 20 or even 22 inch wheels

1 price
2 looks


1, yes, 18 inch tires are cheaper than 20s, but that is only true if you dont have to buy the rims
since you have 20 inch rims, in order for the price difference in tires to offset the added cost of a set of 18 inch rims, you would have to go through 4, maybe 5 sets of tires

2 looks
i can tell you that i like the looks off smaller rims on anything, especially on trucks, but thats just my opinion
if you like the looks of 20s stick with those

if you do prefer the look of 18s or 22s over the 20s, well you need to decide if you like it enough to pay the upcharge for them


BUT, other than cost and looks, there is no reason to stick with the 20s

 

[rzr6-4]

if you do prefer the look of 18s or 22s over the 20s, well you need to decide if you like it enough to pay the upcharge for them

Marketplace is a wild place, but it does come in handy. Every time I've changed wheels I've either broke even or made money when selling my old ones. Start looking ahead of time and have cash on hand to jump on a deal when you find something you like.

 

[diymirage]

Marketplace is a wild place, but it does come in handy. Every time I've changed wheels I've either broke even or made money when selling my old ones. Start looking ahead of time and have cash on hand to jump on a deal when you find something you like.

i always say, the biggest drawback with using marketplace is you have to deal with the people who use marketplace

not to say i never have, in fact, im pretty sure i bought a roof from a couple of guys who were tripping on **** that i dont think was theirs to sell, but thats a story for another day


if youre willing to weed through the tire kickers, yeah, there are still deals to be had

 

[HangmanNY]

I have to think it over before I make a choice of buying wheels.

Once again with these new Eibach Pro system (separate struts, separate Springs, same for shocks), it should raise the truck between 2 1/2 to 3 inches

Once again, I have the CORE 4x4 upper control arms for the front. Nothing’s been installed yet.

What can you guys tell me about heavy duty adjustable sway links? Because as I understand it, the factory sway links won’t work once the suspension is lifted. Any recommendations for those sway links? And also is it just the front sway links or the front and the back?

Thanks for any advice on that.