Electronics issues after boost

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tlukwin

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Hi all. Bought a used 2019 Laramie (no etorque)last year, 3rd Dodge in 15 years. Love them but I think I f’d up. Left rear door open last week without turning off courtesy light, killed the battery. Got a boost, but hooked battery to battery, not chassis ground. Had a slew of MILs, including check engine. Got home, charged battery and disconnected negative from ground for an hour to reset codes. Next day, all the same MIL minus check engine. Used code reader to erase any codes, reads clean now, but still getting :Collision avoidence,abs,cruise control, and ESP lights on dash. Drives fine, but cruise control unavailable. Upon startup, receive messages to service trailer brake, 4wd unavailable , and others. Parksense shows unavailable, but the strange thing is that for the first 5 seconds if I put it in gear, the sensors show warnings of close objects, then shows unavailable. New battery installed, few drives in, same issue Had old battery tested, was good. 20240713_101702.jpg Any thoughts, and help is greatly appreciated
 

Daw14

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Get at any grounds , remove and clean all mating surfaces and cables. Check all the battery connections to be sure everything is clean and tight.
 

turkeybird56

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As Daw14 said ,added caveat

Pull negative, leave off for 4 hours. Also check fuses and insure all seated before u hook negative back up.

Hopefully reset. After hook back up will take numerous drive cycles for all modules to synch.

After all above dunno. Somebody better on electronics needs to chime in.
 

turkeybird56

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Also Neva battery to battery on these rolling computers. Always hook behind ibs ref negative. If you wanna deep charge battery there r some say either pull battery or disconnect both cables. That will be yer decision after u do more research.

Research how to check if IBS bad. U could have fried that also and got improper voltage.
 
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tlukwin

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Yes, that was a moment of dumb frustration on my part. Truck was parked on a hill and had low fuel warning so trying to find out how to release the truck in neutral and a dead battery was just frustration in the moment
 

skuppy069

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I’m not to far from you.
I’m in sylvan lake.
Does your scan tool have the ability to look at all modules for dtc?
 

GTyankee

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First thing after checking to see if all the Fuses are seated fully.

Any time that the battery has been disconnected or allowed to drain below usable charge.

It may take several Ignition Cycles to get things working normally again.

Sometimes an Ignition Cycle is to turn the key to the ON position, then Off position, that is ONE CYCLE

Sometimes you have to actually START the engine, then turn it OFF to do an Ignition Cycle.
Every time that you Start the Engine, you are draining the Battery by something that may replaced by driving 7 miles or a Battery Charger
======================================
Newer Rams, including the Classic Body Style, have a way to manually put your Ram into the neutral position


on a bit older Rams, that same method is used, EXCEPT, there is a safety lock

 

HuskerRam

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Is this the original battery? If it is, you may want to replace it. These trucks are big divas when the battery gets close to its end of life and the gremlins start to come out.

Disregard…reread the original post and saw you put a new battery in.
 
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tlukwin

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I’m not to far from you.
I’m in sylvan lake.
Does your scan tool have the ability to look at all modules for dtc?
Using the Innovo 3100e. Checks transmission and engine DTCs. No errors showing. The thing that puzzles me is the fact the parking sensors work for the first 5 seconds after I start the truck and put in gear (I placed a garbage can in front), then it shows unavailable
 

turkeybird56

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Using the Innovo 3100e. Checks transmission and engine DTCs. No errors showing. The thing that puzzles me is the fact the parking sensors work for the first 5 seconds after I start the truck and put in gear (I placed a garbage can in front), then it shows unavailable
That makes me think IBS. Research and check the IBS sensor, may be allowing/calling for improper voltages and that like a battery going bad drive all the electronics crazy. My 16 month old AGM Battery went bad like a month ago. Once did a SOC on battery, and checked stuff, l determined battery going/was bad. After got new battery, and a lot of drive cycles, ran a code check and I had 17 major and many minor codes showing, all ref low Voltage. Took like (4) drive cycles till my MIL light reset.

Did you do a load test and also check if alternator operating properly putting out the proper voltage, and not the alternator and installed VR not going bad.
 
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tlukwin

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That makes me think IBS. Research and check the IBS sensor, may be allowing/calling for improper voltages and that like a battery going bad drive all the electronics crazy. My 16 month old AGM Battery went bad like a month ago. Once did a SOC on battery, and checked stuff, l determined battery going/was bad. After got new battery, and a lot of drive cycles, ran a code check and I had 17 major and many minor codes showing, all ref low Voltage. Took like (4) drive cycles till my MIL light reset.

Did you do a load test and also check if alternator operating properly putting out the proper voltage, and not the alternator and installed VR not going bad.
Load test done on Old battery out of vehicle. Purchased new battery and have at least 10 drive cycles on it with no change in mils. Looks like I'll have to take the vehicle in and get a alternator and VR check done. If nothing showing there then I guess I buy a new IBS. They're only like $130 from RockAuto
 

turkeybird56

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Check the IBS before U just go buy and see if it is bad. No sense chasing good $$$ if that not the issue. This info may help U: Do a LOAD test on New Battery?
 

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Tominator223

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Daw14 got it check grounds. Unless you hooked cables backwards 1st. It’s probably a ground issue
 

bm02tj

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If you need to jump a vehicle always have both off when hooking up
Run good unit for a short time then shut off before starting dead unit
Let dead one run for short time before unhooking
 

Dusty

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Get at any grounds , remove and clean all mating surfaces and cables. Check all the battery connections to be sure everything is clean and tight.
I will add that in 2019 there was a recall to address a bad ground connection between the battery and a ground screw on the left side fender caused by paint. This required disconnecting the ground wire at the fender, cleaning the mounting bolt, and reconnecting.

I have found that the remaining ground points on the fenders and radiator support can suffer from the same problem. I proactively cleaned all of them and used an anti-oxidant grease when reassembling them. Have not had any electrical glitches.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 115670 miles.
 
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tlukwin

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Thanks. Will check the ground. On a whim I decided to disconnect the IBS and see if I was experiencing the same problems. Lo and behold yes the exact same problems occurred with the IBS sensor disconnected. I'm thinking that it is a IBS problem
 
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