Engine check light flashing at WOT

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Lsujker

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So today I noticed my check engine light began flashing at wide open throttle. It’s a 2017 ram 2500 tradesman with 6.4 hemi. Truck is not driven often. Every two months I go for a drive to charge the system and lube everything up. I was passing a buss on the interstate, put my foot down and as the RPMs climbed the engine light flashed. Second I left off the throttle, light quit. Tested this twice with the same results. Engine runs smooth. Trans shifts as it should.

Something I need to be worried about? What could it be?
 

Rhett55

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I hope I’m wrong but soon the engine light will stay on not just flash and it will. Get worse. He will scan the codes. It will tell you that one of the cylinders is misfiring probably three or five he will change the spark plug, a spark, plug wires. Rotate coil packs hopefully that fixes it but it probably won’t. And he will then need to change the cam and lifters. A. couple grand. After you get it back from the shop or if you do it yourself you’ll remember how good it used to run. You can also choose to sell it now. I only had mine a week before I noticed that flashing best of luck
 

mtofell

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Flashing CEL is a misfire and it flashes because it's potentially really bad (refer to your manual). Mine started flashing at WOT intermittently and resulted in an engine replacement. I hope your problem is less severe.
 
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Lsujker

Lsujker

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Well, not always sunshine and rainbows on this forum. I will scan and go from there.
 

Riccochet

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If you only drive it every couple months could also be bad gas. Our modern gas doesn't like to sit that long. At upper RPM's it could be pulling so much timing due to garbage gas.
 
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Lsujker

Lsujker

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Last time I drove the truck was early June. Towed my Jeep to Florida and back. Drove fantastic. No issues. 54k miles on the odometer. I turn mds off every drive.

hopefully I can find a specific problem and fix it. Really hope it’s not the cam or lifters but if it is, please point me to a good shop in Louisiana. Not going to a dealer. I assume these motors can be upgraded to remove factory deficiencies.
 

mtofell

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Last time I drove the truck was early June. Towed my Jeep to Florida and back. Drove fantastic. No issues. 54k miles on the odometer. I turn mds off every drive.

hopefully I can find a specific problem and fix it. Really hope it’s not the cam or lifters but if it is, please point me to a good shop in Louisiana. Not going to a dealer. I assume these motors can be upgraded to remove factory deficiencies.
The failure I referenced upthread in post #4 turned out to be metal shavings found due to some bearing that failed deep in the engine. Apparently, it shot metal throughout the engine and there was no fix or rebuild possible. I didn't argue or research further since it was a warranty thing but again, I really hope that's not your issue. The dealer did say that my situation was very rare and he had only seen it a handful of times in 15+ years.
 

2003F350

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The failure I referenced upthread in post #4 turned out to be metal shavings found due to some bearing that failed deep in the engine. Apparently, it shot metal throughout the engine and there was no fix or rebuild possible. I didn't argue or research further since it was a warranty thing but again, I really hope that's not your issue. The dealer did say that my situation was very rare and he had only seen it a handful of times in 15+ years.
The problem with yours was that yes, shavings throughout the engine from a failed bearing, depending on how BAD it was, can leave you with just a block and heads that can be reused, everything else would be new. For the cost of buying all the parts and magnafluxing the block and heads to make sure there's no cracks, you might as well buy a new crate engine.

Been a LONG time since I've seen that kind of failure - the last one I saw was my dad's '86 GMC with a 6.2 diesel. So yes, they're INCREDIBLY rare.
 
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Lsujker

Lsujker

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So I ran an Amazon reader on my truck today. Zero codes and vitals look good. Whatever happened was temporary. Going to continue driving this week and see what happens.
 

jws123

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So I ran an Amazon reader on my truck today. Zero codes and vitals look good. Whatever happened was temporary. Going to continue driving this week and see what happens.
It could just be a coil starting to go I had missfires here and there until one of mine gave out also possibly sticky injector wouldnt hurt to run some seafoam in the tank. If you dont hear any engine noise/tapping ect its probably not a cam yet letting the truck sit often is the worst thing you can do especially with newer vehicles. Not to long ago I had someone that bought a tradesman from a auction because it only had 65k on it however it had 9400 engine hours it was used for township they always kept running so it basically was a 220k engine.
 
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2003F350

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It could just be a coil starting to go I had missfires here and there until one of mine gave out also possibly sticky injector wouldnt hurt to run some seafoam in the tank. If you dont hear any engine noise/tapping ect its probably not a cam yet letting the truck sit often is the worst thing you can do especially with newer vehicles. Not to long ago I had someone that bought a tradesman from a auction because it only had 65k on it however it had 9400 engine hours it was used for township they always kept running so it basically was a 220k engine.
That's always a gamble with Auctions, or buying a truck owned by a government body (or even a construction company). They might be low miles, but there's a STRONG chance that it sat and idled a LOT. And while idling doesn't do a LOT of damage in the short run, a LOT of idling is almost as bad as running the crap out of it.
 

62Blazer

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Typically a flashing engine light under those conditions indicates a cylinder misfire event. The flashing light also means that whatever is occurring may be bad and you should stop doing whatever is causing it....in this case if it only happens at WOT you should stop being at WOT if the light starts flashing. I also wouldn't immediately freak out and suspect the engine is getting ready to blow either. In my years of working on cars a cylinder misfire is a very, very common condition and could be as simple as a bad plug, coil, injector, or even a bad tank of gas. Sure, it could indicate a more serious engine issue is starting to happen but always start with the simple things first.
The engine light does not have to be actually on at the time see any old codes, however a cheapo base model code scanner may not be able to see stored codes. The codes stored in the ECM just do not randomly disappear, but will go from active (i.e. engine light on) to stored or historic status that you should be able to view until cleared with a scanner.
In any case, if it happens again and you can see a code I would suspect it will give you a misfire at a specific cylinder. The first thing I would do is a visual inspection of that cylinder and check the connections. The next thing you can do is swapping parts between cylinders (only do 1 at a time!) and see if the misfire follows the part or stays with the cylinder. For example if there is a misfire on cylinder 3 swap the plugs between cylinders 3 and 5 and go drive. If the misfire is now at cylinder 5 you know it's probably the plugs. If the misfire stays at cylinder 3 there is something else wrong. You can swap the coils and injectors around next.
 

marshrats30

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I have the same issue. The code said #8 cylinder misfire. Took it to the dealer. They replaced the coil pack, injector and manifold. 5k later still have the problem. Mine is 2014 2500, 5.7 hemi with 323k miles. Always serviced regularly including the 100k service 3x. Check engine light is back on and any time I accelerate hard, it blinks. Is the engine toast? How long can I drive it like this. The dealer said baby it and it will last another year.
 

jws123

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I have the same issue. The code said #8 cylinder misfire. Took it to the dealer. They replaced the coil pack, injector and manifold. 5k later still have the problem. Mine is 2014 2500, 5.7 hemi with 323k miles. Always serviced regularly including the 100k service 3x. Check engine light is back on and any time I accelerate hard, it blinks. Is the engine toast? How long can I drive it like this. The dealer said baby it and it will last another year.
At 323k run it til it blows thats alot of miles for any engine then throw a used engine in if the trucks in good shape. Also how the hell did you spend 5k for a manifold and injector? must be more to the story there i assume.
 

62Blazer

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I have the same issue. The code said #8 cylinder misfire. Took it to the dealer. They replaced the coil pack, injector and manifold. 5k later still have the problem. Mine is 2014 2500, 5.7 hemi with 323k miles. Always serviced regularly including the 100k service 3x. Check engine light is back on and any time I accelerate hard, it blinks. Is the engine toast? How long can I drive it like this. The dealer said baby it and it will last another year.
To be honest, sounds like they just started throwing random parts at it versus actually doing some basic diagnostics and testing on it.
 

Riccochet

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To be honest, sounds like they just started throwing random parts at it versus actually doing some basic diagnostics and testing on it.
Most dealers don't have technicians any more. They have parts chuckers. They slap on whatever the computer/Stellantis tells them to and send the vehicle on it's way. Real technicians are worth their weight in gold as they can do actual diagnostic work. Sure, the computer/scanner gives them valuable data. It's using that data to find the actual problem that these new UTI graduates lack.
 

62Blazer

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Most dealers don't have technicians any more. They have parts chuckers. They slap on whatever the computer/Stellantis tells them to and send the vehicle on it's way. Real technicians are worth their weight in gold as they can do actual diagnostic work. Sure, the computer/scanner gives them valuable data. It's using that data to find the actual problem that these new UTI graduates lack.
Agree with you. The only thing I will say that the manufacturer or the scanner is not telling them the first thing to do is start changing parts. The factory diagnostics manual has trouble shooting trees for every code, and the first several items in that tree are always testing power feeds, grounds, reference voltages, resistances, etc.... Only after going through all of those tests and following the diagnostic tree will it point to replacing certain parts that tested bad. But again, your comment about "parts chuckers" is unfortunately common nowadays.
 
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