Engine rebuild on 2012 & keep or sell

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RCoop

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Hemi 5.7
Just found out my old faithful 2012 1500 Hemi 5.7 (168,000 miles) has the Lifter failure & needs the cam shaft replaced. No metal was detected thankfully. The truck was taken in because the ac stopped working and wouldn’t hold a charge. The mechanic found the problem was the evaporator and now that needs replacing along with the heater core which is when they found the Lifter failure. I’ve always kept up with all service, oil changes, etc., and have never had a problem or been left stranded other than a dead battery once. I’m wanting to get it fixed but I am unsure if I should sell it if I am in for additional problems or if this rebuild will get me an additional 100,000 miles. It’s cheaper to fix it than buying another. The mechanic inspected it before I made the decision to go ahead with the repairs and said he could find nothing else that would cause future problems. I’ve never had issues with the tranny or any other major issues. I occasionally haul a small bumper pull horse trailer with my horse to local park trails and don’t want to be left stranded along the road with a horse. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

White six four

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Is your truck ticking? Or a check engine light on? If no ticking especially hot idle and no engine light, what test(s) did they do to determine your lifter(s) are bad?
 

Jeepwalker

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So is he just going to replace the cam/lifters then?

Your situation is not an uncommon issue with Hemi trucks. Many owners who have a cam/lifter issue seem to do exactly what your mechanic is doing (replace C/L's ...not a full engine rebuild) ...cleaned any shavings up real well ...and are still driving their trucks after many miles/years after the issue. Do a search on this forum and you'll find many posts on the subject with pics, how-to pictures, and so on. The consensus is the newer lifters have been improved, which is helpful to know.

The other two issues you listed are real common too. The best way to proceed is up to you and your pocketbook, but it sounds like you made the decision already. I probably would have done the same, if your tk is in good shape and you like it. After 2012, they went to Electronic Power Steering ...which if you read up on that are becoming expensive headaches for a lot of Ram owners. 2012's were the last before the 2013 electronic and wiring "Upgrades". That's the good.

If the mechanic can replace the C/L's reasonably inexpensively, and you like the truck (which it seems you do), it's probably a good way to go. There are owners who have well into the 200k mile range (some past 300k mi) and still getting good service out of their Hemi's (never having had the issue). Of course, it's a 2012, other things will eventually fail. But that's true for any vehicle as parts wear. Hopefully you will get many tens of thousands more miles out of yours :waytogo:

Hey....keep us up to speed how this turns out, costs, etc, to help other forum members.
 
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RCoop

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Yes, I gave the go-ahead to replace the Lifters, Cam, Evaporator & Heater Core. I also asked for a new oil pump based on info I came across saying it was recommended just in case of metal fragments even though none were found. That’s a minor expense compared to the rest of the repairs. I have searched here & ready many threads about this but wanted opinions based on the unique fact that I haul a horse trailer and need a reliable truck so I’m not stranded on the side of the road with a horse. Wallet aside, I’m old school and try to repair/keep things useable as long as possible but don’t want to set myself up for failure with this unique scenario
 

Jeepwalker

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If you're "old-school" and don't need all that 'new tech'...hang onto the 2012. That was a very good year.

Get it undercoated, and squirt oil inside the frame from the front of the doors back. I would actually squirt oil above the rear wheel openings too (I know everyone's going to jump on me here) And the tailgate bottom ...so your tk stays nice-looking. I would probably remove the taillight and squirt a high pressure stream of water (from a garden hose), to attempt to dislodge small stones and dirt...a full week before undercoating (to allow time to dry). And spray the area below the taillight too (which also collects dirt/rocks).

If the seat bottom starts getting worn, get it fixed before it wears out the harder to find upholstery. It's actually a fairly straight-forward DIY project if you're into that kind of thing. I know everybody wants to buy the Geno's Garage foam, but it's denser than stock so expect a 2x stiffer seat. Same with the Tx-made foam. That's good if you lke that, bad for guys with a bad back.


Invest in a good 'detail' job (and undercoating), so your Tk looks like new again, and stays nice looking. Then, you'll get that extra 100k miles out of it (hopefully). It's worth every penny. When vehicles look great owners are more inclined to invest money and keep them up. Pride of ownership...they call it.
:cheers:

.
 
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RCoop

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Good to hear I’m making a good decision if no future problems crop up. This truck still shines like a shiny red apple and the upholstery is in great shape although the inevitable barn/horse dirt needs to be cleaned out of it. I had a matching fiberglass cap installed which stores my gear. It’s been a great truck until now. Who do I take it to for undercoating? I’m pretty sure we paid extra to have that done when purchased new from the dealership. Does it need it again?
 

Burla

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Good to hear I’m making a good decision if no future problems crop up. This truck still shines like a shiny red apple and the upholstery is in great shape although the inevitable barn/horse dirt needs to be cleaned out of it. I had a matching fiberglass cap installed which stores my gear. It’s been a great truck until now. Who do I take it to for undercoating? I’m pretty sure we paid extra to have that done when purchased new from the dealership. Does it need it again?
Look up hemi395's DYI fluid film thread.

Read the lubrication threads in my sig, read the multiple reviews from ram forum members. If it is ticking when done, you can change that 50% of the time with biotech, 80% of the time with redline 5w30. It is strictly the science of EP extreme pressure additives and base oils. Kill the tick with EP additives it doesn't mask the sound, it corrects it. My hemi tick has been silent for 15 years, yeah it's like that.

I think you made the right choice, the 2012 ram's are special trucks.
 
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RCoop

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Yes, replacing cam & lifters and oil pump. Maybe wrong to say rebuild although after replacing the parts & gaskets, etc., it seems like one. I guess I’ve been very fortunate not having any problems with this truck until now. And it all started with the AC going out which I thought would be a simple fix of a leak
 

Jeepwalker

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It would be a real good idea to dial in your truck's coolant pH if you plan to be a long-term owner. Aluminum and Iron have different 'happy' points along the pH spectrum and the point where they overlap is rather small. And on top of that, aluminum tends to become an anode quickly and guess which part of your truck has the lowest tolerance for prolonged ion exchange?? (hint...the heater core. The Radiator next).

So if it was the H/C which failed, more than likely it was a symptom of a larger issue. And most coolant with local water may not be within that happy range where iron & aluminum will be in their 'happy zones'. That's more science for ya. In industrial settings where machines cost a million bucks (and take 4-6 mo to get), and downtime is measured in 5-digit+ dollars per 15 minutes... believe me, they are on top of industrial water treatment multiple times a day. In the old days of brass radiators and heater cores (brass is a noble metal) they'd usually last forever even if the coolant pH was way off.

Tester: HERE

pH-Metal-Corrosion-scale-600x240.png
 

Jeepwalker

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Note: Test strips (what most mechanics use) suck. You gotta use a calibrated meter to be precise. No legit industrial testing would use test strips.
 

Jeepwalker

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If you plan to be a 'long-hauler' on 2012 Ram ownership, here are a few other things to be aware of. These aren't to scare you, but make you aware of a couple other *potential* issues that are part of Ram ownership ...which can help if you're aware of them (if you believe Knowledge is King).

1) WIN module. This is the electronic module behind your key ...where you put your key. It's on the backside of the dash, that you can't see. Usually after many miles ...and a heavy keychain hanging on the key, the contacts can become dirty or slightly bent and the truck might not start. Got to youtube and type in WIN Module Repair, and watch a few. It's almost DIY. It may never happen to you but if it does, you won't freak out.

2) Fuel Pump Relay. This was more of a 2011 thing...but on some of those earlier tks there's a relay on the computer which engages the fuel pump, which was a source of problems. Basically cranks ...but doesn't start. There's an inexpensive fuel pump bypass cable HERE which would be a great thing to toss into the glove box along with the instructions, and could save your bacon. A good mechanic who likes to do Root-Cause fixes (that's almost NO mechanic out there), could solder in a new exact replacement relay onto the computer circuit board, rather than spend $1200 for a new computer. But it may never happen to you. But still....for a few bucks, since you said you don't want to get stranded, consider buying the bypass cable and being prepared for the worst. There's also a fuel pressure regulator down by the brake booster than can do something similar.

3) Odd Behavior -- No Start ....Dash Says Computer is Bad: When the batteries fail on these trucks, the lcd screen on the dash can display some very odd messages. The first thing to do when your tk doesn't start and seems 'flakey' is to ensure the battery terminals are good. And THEN, do a battery LOAD TEST. A bad battery is usually the cure. But just be aware of it and don't freak out if it happens.

4) Rust Issues - We already touched upon this. You might squirt some oil on the bracket that goes above your fuel tank and supports it. There's a pocket which catches and holds debris which can rot the tank support. It was an item that was a recall. Was yours replaced? But at the bare minimum, squirting a few pumps of oil in the door bottoms, cab corners, rear (and front) wheel housings, and tailgate would be a great idea. You can get access to the rear wheel arches from in front of each rear wheel. They also tend to get a lot of rocks and debris on them ..but that's another story (which is why I recommended removing each taillight and spraying a jet stream of water to clean the rear wheel arches a week before.

Get some oil on that stupid "Hemi" badge on the front fenders! Oddly it can rust around that badge from the back. It's a wierd situation, but you want to avoid it. You gotta get heavy oil on the BACKSIDE of that badge. Just do a google image search of Ram rust issues, and I'm sure you'll see an example.

5) Rear 3rd Brake Light Gasket Leak - There's a seal between the light housing and the cab that shrinks/dries/cracks ..and leaks water into the cab. You might want to be proactive and replace that before you get leaks. Leaks get on the floor which can rust ground contacts ...causes all sorts of potential downstream issues. All from a single water leak! Simple fix ....get in front of it.

6) Rear trailing arm bushings - They get loose after a while. Easy and relatively inexpensive for a mechanic to change. Maybe have your mechanic guy have a look at yours. Not a freak-out thing...more of something to just know about. The ones on my truck have been weak for a few yrs. I'll get to them one of these days.

Maybe I'm forgetting something, I'm sure other guys will chime in. Again, these aren't to freak you out, they may never occur. But knowing these things may empower you to know they aren't end-of-the-world issues ...if they rear their head, and how you can be on the front-side of things. Being on the front side could make something a minor annoyance vs a bad day. Just like anything, the more you know the better. Newer trucks have their issues too,, and some of them can be VERY expensive (on newer tks). Besides that, keep your fluids changed regularly per the schedule. Plugs when it needs them. Should be good for many more miles.
:waytogo:
 
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jws123

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Got my old 2011 160k with failed cam/lifters threw new cam/lifters and oil pump ran that btch HARD problem free to 230k best truck i ever had Sold it and the guy is still driving it allthough it looked terrible last i saw it lol.
Also side note after the new cam truck will tick/tap for a while til everything breaks in I usually do a oil change at 1-2k after cam replacement no such thing as a quiet hemi.
 
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