Headers

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Wild one

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Addendum: weld guys get nervous cause if they use too hard enable weld rod, too high heat input, and don't pre and post heat, their welds can crack with the higher thermal cycling with wrapping.

All this means is they don't want to control their welding processes and materials consistently, or want a common weld rod for all their work.

Back to original point - the steel tubes don't care - the welding has to be done correctly not to have a hardenable weld joint prone to thermal cycling cracking.

We now take you back to your normal program with @Wild one
And they get very picky if you steal their stainless steel compatiable grinding discs,lol. Somehow i ended up with a drawer full of stainless grinding discs over the years,damn things used to fall into my lunchbox when i wasn't looking :waytogo: :Big Laugh:
 
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Wild one

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@Wild one , thoughts on these? Behind my baby supercharger

Apparently those are closer to 1 7/8" then they are 2",that's according to Matt Fikac/Moes as he did a little comparision between them and a set of ARH's. With boost they should be perfectly fine,as cylinder scavenging isn't as important if you're forcing air into the cylinder
 

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I have a question for you guys.... Do y'all have a specific set of locking bolts at the head you recommend?? I had shorties on my last truck and it was impossible to put them on a few bolts and I only did this after blowing the second set of gaskets.... I'm ordering a set of Stainless Works long tubs today and am putting locks on from the very start....

LockingBolts.jpg
 
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Wild one

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I have a question for you guys.... Do y'all have a specific set of locking bolts at the head you recommend?? I had shorties on my last truck and it was impossible to put them on a few bolts and I only did this after blowing the second set of gaskets.... I'm ordering a set of Stainless Works long tubs today and am putting locks on from the very start....

View attachment 544726
You're nuts to use the locking tabs,you'll be looking for the guy that sold them to with a big hammer when you have to remove the headers.throw in the fact alot of tuners don't reconmend them,as they have a habit of rattling,which causes your knock sensors to pull timing.Spring for a set of 6022 Remflex gaskets,and use the bolts that come with the headers.The Remflex gaskets don't require retorquing
 

shortman

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Another question...

Is everyone just bending the OEM dip stick OR replacing it with something else/better when doing the headers? Seen a few videos but those guys just bent the OEM one....
 
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Wild one

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Another question...

Is everyone just bending the OEM dip stick OR replacing it with something else/better when doing the headers? Seen a few videos but those guys just bent the OEM one....
Lokar builds a flexible dipstick,if you decide on one get the one with -24 at the end of the part number.
 

Daw14

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I bent mine reused factory mounts and bolts , 1 3/4 “ ARH long tubes. Approximately 8* bend about three inches from where it entered the block if memory serves me right.

6 spd.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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Anybody seen these or used them?

 
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Wild one

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Anybody seen these or used them?

For the price they might be worth a try. Have you preused ebay they have some cheap long tubes,that look very similiar to these. For the most part,the reviews i've read on the cheap ebay long tubes aren't bad,and i wouldn't be scared to try them.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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I've seen several sets priced at $199 to $289. But they are all 201 stainless. Like these

 

Pull Ya

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You might ask yourself why there is such a huge difference in the price of these headers and the price of the top-tier headers such as ARH, Stainless, or Kooks, all of which are in excess of $2000. Are the top-tier headers just all priced unreasonably(which is also true) or are there other reasons, such as quality, fitment, and performance?
Jay
 
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Wild one

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You might ask yourself why there is such a huge difference in the price of these headers and the price of the top-tier headers such as ARH, Stainless, or Kooks, all of which are in excess of $2000. Are the top-tier headers just all priced unreasonably(which is also true) or are there other reasons, such as quality, fitment, and performance?
Jay
You missed one Jay,they're all overpriced because of the name wrote on the box they come in,and a gouge and screw attitude by the name brand manufacture's,there's no way in hell a pair of long tubes should be priced in excess of $2,000.
 

ramffml

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So my manifolds are starting to tick now, just over 60k miles.

I'm debating what to do and can't make up my mind. A shop will need to do this for me as I don't have the time (and lets be honest, "skills" too).

I do like the idea of cheap long tubes but worried about leaks and extra heat etc. So I take it wrapping them is key, but where do you buy the wrap for them, and what about the RTV is that a basic requirement as well? Do I just let the shop worry about it all?

Or ... do I just find a local machinist to plane my manifolds down. I like that option as it's probably the most fool proof (do it once and be done with it all), but my truck will most likely be "down" for a longer time that way and I kinda need it.

Decisions, decisions.
 
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Wild one

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So my manifolds are starting to tick now, just over 60k miles.

I'm debating what to do and can't make up my mind. A shop will need to do this for me as I don't have the time (and lets be honest, "skills" too).

I do like the idea of cheap long tubes but worried about leaks and extra heat etc. So I take it wrapping them is key, but where do you buy the wrap for them, and what about the RTV is that a basic requirement as well? Do I just let the shop worry about it all?

Or ... do I just find a local machinist to plane my manifolds down. I like that option as it's probably the most fool proof (do it once and be done with it all), but my truck will most likely be "down" for a longer time that way and I kinda need it.

Decisions, decisions.
Check your local market place / buy sell pages,you might find a set of the stock manifolds,that you could have pre-shaved to install,that way your truck isn't down while you're waiting for your manifolds to be shaved or sanded.
I finally threw my stock manifolds out a couple months ago,i'd had them laying around for the last 9 years,and got tired of looking at them,as i couldn't even give them away,lol
 
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