My experiences thus far with 3.6 Pentastar Ram 1500

[Atcer2018]

That's not encouraging. I hope this latest attempt works out for you. Meanwhile, I'll be awaiting the inevitable oil stains in my carport as I watch Youtube videos on how to perform this repair .

My experience replacing the unit was about the same as BenchTest described. It’s not a particularly difficult job just frustrating at times. That crossmember in the engine bay is your best friend and I too stood on it for much of the repair. Wear good supportive shoes! If you have one of those articulating ladders that have multiple positions that may come in handy as I put one section inside the engine bay and the other end on the garage floor to form a flat platform to sit or lay on. The laying down part didn’t work so well for a 60 year old and sitting on it requires reaching over at the waist if you’re tall. It’s mostly basic hand tools and a torque wrench job.

 

[BenchTest]

My experience replacing the unit was about the same as BenchTest described. It’s not a particularly difficult job just frustrating at times. That crossmember in the engine bay is your best friend and I too stood on it for much of the repair. Wear good supportive shoes! If you have one of those articulating ladders that have multiple positions that may come in handy as I put one section inside the engine bay and the other end on the garage floor to form a flat platform to sit or lay on. The laying down part didn’t work so well for a 60 year old and sitting on it requires reaching over at the waist if you’re tall. It’s mostly basic hand tools and a torque wrench job.

I'm 50. I felt that repair for a couple of days. You really load up the leg and back muscles standing awkwardly for the duration of it.

 

[Tony Donato]

I'm 50. I felt that repair for a couple of days. You really load up the leg and back muscles standing awkwardly for the duration of it.

You will find out about muscles you thought you never had, that's for sure.

Lift the rear 6 to 9 inches off the ground. It makes it much easier to work under the hood. Use ramps or a hydraulic jack and jack stands for safety.

 

[BenchTest]

You will find out about muscles you thought you never had, that's for sure.

Lift the rear 6 to 9 inches off the ground. It makes it much easier to work under the hood. Use ramps or a hydraulic jack and jack stands for safety.

Can just go 18" of lift on the rear and do a ZF trans drain and refill when I'm done

 

[BenchTest]

I'm probably late to the party, but I just did the "partial Active Grill Shutters delete". Removed all but the top and bottom row of the shutters. I elected to remove the AGS assembly and gently remove them in case my findings were not favorable and needed to re-install. It was a simple surgery. Here are my findings. It's been 90-95 degrees here and on the hwy running 70ish MPH, with the AGS intact, my coolant temps ranged between 195-224 CONSTANTLY. UP and then DOWN, and then UP and then DOWN, with what I assume is the cycling of the shutters. This was true with or without AC on (yes I manned up and killed the AC for part of the test when it was 95 degrees and 80% humidity, lol). The oil temp was always in pursuit of those numbers as well, for obvious reasons. The trans varied from 174-188 with the shutter cycles. Once the AGS center shutters were removed I repeated the drive cycle. Coolant and oil temp stayed between 195-199 while driving with or without AC. Trans temp stayed on 183 about 95% of the time (my readings show this ZF trans is internally regulated to 183-185, so that reading is good in my book). The only time coolant/oil temps raised was at idle/stop, and then it only crept up about 2-3 degrees. No more 25-30 degree temp swings, so I consider this a win. Stable temps are better in my book. Was a simple mod to make. Don't anticipate any CEL/MIL flare ups with this either. Seems like a pretty well tested MOD in the forums.

 

[HunterCat]

Regarding the oil filter housing, I've been thinking about this a little more. The latest part number from Mopar seems to be 68596317AB. This replaces a LOT of prior iterations. It would be interesting to see the date when this latest part number was introduced. They must have made several attempts to try and mitigate this issue by changing the part. Again, would be interesting to see when the latest version came out and what the change was. They seem to have had black o-rings in the past and now they are orange. So at the very least, they've changed the o-rings. Also, some people have reported a change in the thickness of the plastic border surrounding the o-rings.

Not sure how to get any of this information. Any ideas from the more savvy members here?

 

[Tom57]

I'm late and I'm a new member here - after reading this post I guess there's a problem with the plastic oil filter housing, stripping the threads, over tightening it and cracking the unit ? Right ? Doing my own oil changes I'm not that stupid to do that. I can understand if you take it out to have a technician to do the oil filter change he may over tighten it.
But the BIG issue is I think most owners change their oil too soon, too many times when not needed - 3000 miles is too soon, the perfect miles is 7500-8000 miles. I believe changing oil too soon actually does more harm to the engine by starving the engine dry at first start up after the oil change. Oil doesn't wear out, you change it cause it's dirty, actually when the oil looks dirty it's doing a better job keeping the engine clean. When you have a bucket of soap water and mop your floor when the bucket of water is dirty that means you have a cleaner floor but if the bucket of water looks clean after you're done your floor is still dirty and the soap you used wasn't any good.
Most of you guys go overboard changing your oil, fuel treatments are snake oil, new spark plugs are designed for 100K miles, the only issues with the EVAP systems are the canisters - tubes rust out, hoses rot and wire harness plugs corrode
You guys are doing too much that you don't need to do, the more you touch it the worse it gets, don't "fix" it unless it's broke.

 

[Atcer2018]

I'm late and I'm a new member here - after reading this post I guess there's a problem with the plastic oil filter housing, stripping the threads, over tightening it and cracking the unit ? Right ? Doing my own oil changes I'm not that stupid to do that. I can understand if you take it out to have a technician to do the oil filter change he may over tighten it.
But the BIG issue is I think most owners change their oil too soon, too many times when not needed - 3000 miles is too soon, the perfect miles is 7500-8000 miles. I believe changing oil too soon actually does more harm to the engine by starving the engine dry at first start up after the oil change. Oil doesn't wear out, you change it cause it's dirty, actually when the oil looks dirty it's doing a better job keeping the engine clean. When you have a bucket of soap water and mop your floor when the bucket of water is dirty that means you have a cleaner floor but if the bucket of water looks clean after you're done your floor is still dirty and the soap you used wasn't any good.
Most of you guys go overboard changing your oil, fuel treatments are snake oil, new spark plugs are designed for 100K miles, the only issues with the EVAP systems are the canisters - tubes rust out, hoses rot and wire harness plugs corrode
You guys are doing too much that you don't need to do, the more you touch it the worse it gets, don't "fix" it unless it's broke.

Believe what you want but a simple internet search will indeed point to oil “wearing out”. It loses its additive package. It shears from pressure and heat. The viscosity changes with use. Dirty oil has trapped contaminants in suspension and although the oil filter is tasked with containing these contaminants they still float around the oil galleys. No one ever sludged an engine by changing the oil too frequently.

 

[Atcer2018]

I'm probably late to the party, but I just did the "partial Active Grill Shutters delete". Removed all but the top and bottom row of the shutters. I elected to remove the AGS assembly and gently remove them in case my findings were not favorable and needed to re-install. It was a simple surgery. Here are my findings. It's been 90-95 degrees here and on the hwy running 70ish MPH, with the AGS intact, my coolant temps ranged between 195-224 CONSTANTLY. UP and then DOWN, and then UP and then DOWN, with what I assume is the cycling of the shutters. This was true with or without AC on (yes I manned up and killed the AC for part of the test when it was 95 degrees and 80% humidity, lol). The oil temp was always in pursuit of those numbers as well, for obvious reasons. The trans varied from 174-188 with the shutter cycles. Once the AGS center shutters were removed I repeated the drive cycle. Coolant and oil temp stayed between 195-199 while driving with or without AC. Trans temp stayed on 183 about 95% of the time (my readings show this ZF trans is internally regulated to 183-185, so that reading is good in my book). The only time coolant/oil temps raised was at idle/stop, and then it only crept up about 2-3 degrees. No more 25-30 degree temp swings, so I consider this a win. Stable temps are better in my book. Was a simple mod to make. Don't anticipate any CEL/MIL flare ups with this either. Seems like a pretty well tested MOD in the forums.

I’m jealous! I have all but the top and bottom row of my AGS removed but still see temps in the low 220’s when using the AC on hot days with speeds of 70+. No AC or below 60mph it will run 199-205 which I’m happy with but higher speeds with AC on drives up my coolant and oil temps. Prior to the AGS delete temps were 20+ degrees higher. Have yet to figure this out.