I disconnected the battery first, then came back after 30 min or so and tested the fuses.
When you say disconnected the battery, did you pull the negative cable, connected the meter in line, than waited 30 minutes? Or did you disconnect the battery and just leave it unhooked, than came back 30 minutes later and connected the meter? If you did do it this way, as soon as you hooked up the meter (same is reconnecting the battery) it would wake everything back up.
One way or another, after you disconnect the battery and hook up the meter (and leave it hooked up), you should periodically see a drop in the amps as modules go to sleep. Even if you have a parasitic draw the modules that are still awake will be drawing current and will go away and reduce the amp reading, eventually leaving only the parasitic draw.
I will say it's great that somebody is actually doing some trouble-shooting and trying to diagnose the problem. However there is just something that doesn't add up, and think you are maybe not quite doing the procedure correct and getting some false numbers. Again, the reason I say this:
If you had a true 3 amp parasitic draw the battery would likely go dead overnight, and not take 5-6 days to go dead. If a parasitic draw took 5-6 days to drain the battery I would only expect to see maybe a 0.1-0.3 amp parasitic drain. This means if you are seeing 3 amps then either the vehicle is not truly in sleep mode or you are reading the wrong thing or something. Or maybe the meter isn't reading correct?
Maybe a quick check. Disconnect the negative battery and put the meter in line. Simply open and close the door so the interior light goes on and off and see what the amp reading says....you should be able to see the amp reading fluctuate up and down as the light turns on and off. Keep in mind you need to keep the amp meter connected the entire time.