Synthetic Oil

[Tony Donato]

For the few of us running HPL

Which HPL oil are you running?

 

[Hemi395]

For the few of us running HPL; they're having a 4th of July sale, 25% off automatically applied when purchased on the 3rd or 4th, orders will ship out on the 8th due to limited staff.

Time to stock up!

Automotive Lubricants

Advanced Lubrication, Inc.

www.advlubrication.com

You're tempting me to try this lol

Which one is the one to use in our Hemis?

 

[ramffml]

The consensus on this forum says to use the super car, but I've used:
- no vii euro 5w-30 (summer)
- premium plus 0w-30 (winter)
- pcmo 5w-20 (winter)

Surprisingly the cheapest PCMO sounded the best in my engine by far, no contest. That cold start performance was great, exceeding every other expensive oil I've tried (the other two HPL, Redline, and Mobil 1 0w-40).

I'm running no vii again this summer to use up what I had purchased before discovering that PCMO sounds best, I'll be ordering PCMO 5w-30 for the winter and see how that goes, if it sounds great too then that will be my choice of oil full time from now on.

As for UOA's; the P+ and no vii came back with better reports vs the PCMO, but as of now I think that's simply due to the viscosity, won't know for another year whether that's true or not.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Which HPL oil are you running?

I made the switch to HPL last year and its been a fantastic go with it.
I currently run their HPL SC 0W30 oil and the RP 20-820 oil filter.
I've got about 8 or 9 gallons of it left from their last big sale.
Its crazy expensive to have it shipped to Ontario, Canada, but its worth it for the benefits it delivers.

I was running RL HP 5W30 with the same oil filter, and it too is an incredible product.
I think I have 2 or 3 gallons left from my first bulk order I made with Summit a good while back.

I like both oils and will always use one or the other in my HEMI.
Heck, I mixed a jug of each brand in my HEMI its first OCI; that reminds me...
I have the sample to send to Blackstone yet. I'll get it out and post up so we can see what it reads with a mix like that.

 

[JHoward]

The consensus on this forum says to use the super car, but I've used:
- no vii euro 5w-30 (summer)
- premium plus 0w-30 (winter)
- pcmo 5w-20 (winter)

Surprisingly the cheapest PCMO sounded the best in my engine by far, no contest. That cold start performance was great, exceeding every other expensive oil I've tried (the other two HPL, Redline, and Mobil 1 0w-40).

I'm running no vii again this summer to use up what I had purchased before discovering that PCMO sounds best, I'll be ordering PCMO 5w-30 for the winter and see how that goes, if it sounds great too then that will be my choice of oil full time from now on.

As for UOA's; the P+ and no vii came back with better reports vs the PCMO, but as of now I think that's simply due to the viscosity, won't know for another year whether that's true or not.

Which one, I don't remember.

HPL in Indiana or HIGH Performance Lubricants in Illinois?

 

[ramffml]

Which one, I don't remember.

HPL in Indiana or HIGH Performance Lubricants in Illinois?

Have to use the second one, black bottle, from advluburication.com. The gray bottle is a different oil (still produced by them but under contract for a vendor).

The link:

Automotive Lubricants

Advanced Lubrication, Inc.

www.advlubrication.com

 

[tjfdesmo]

I think Shaeffer's makes great stuff, but has anyone here shown it to be a tick killer??

 

[Tony Donato]

HPL in Indiana or HIGH Performance Lubricants in Illinois?

They are both made in the same plant. The red-label HPL is blended specifically for the power-adder market. It's a streetable racing oil. The red-label HPL is a separate company that uses High Performance Lubricants to formulate, blend, and package their oils.

The green label High Performance Lubricants is their own product. It's formulated for high performance applications, with commercial fleets and long drain intervals in mind. The TBN and resistance to shear is off the charts.

They use two main additive lines that then they tweak for specific products:

1) Everything in the PCMO lineup, NO-VII PCMO lineup, and the BAS lineup, is based on a Dexos 1 Gen 3 additive package supplied by Infineum.
2) Everything in the NO-VII Euro lineup and SuperCar lineup (plus the 5W-40 Euro oil) is based on a VW502/Porsche A40/MB 229.5 additive package supplied by Infineum.
3) Everything in the Euro lineup is based on a mid-SAPS VW504/Porsche C30/Dexos 2 additive package supplied by Infineum.

Now, if you buy the cheapest PCMO, or the most expensive, it doesn't really matter, unless you absolutely need the small advantages that the more expensive versions have: the cheap PCMO has the same cleaning and anti-wear power as their most expensive oils. The difference is that it's blended with Group III. The PCMO Premium is blended with PAO, and the Premium Plus is PAO + Star Polymer. The Star Polymer is about 10% compared to the Olefin Polymer used in the other two. However, the NO-VII is blended with mPAO instead of a Polymer.

Here is a tour of their facility:

How Race Oil Is Made - Behind The Scenes (HPL Oil)

In today's video we give you a look inside HPL Superior Lubricants plant. This was a cool experience getting to see how oil is manufactured from start to fin...

www.youtube.com

 

[Burla]

I think Shaeffer's makes great stuff, but has anyone here shown it to be a tick killer??

Not enough people even tried it for that, probably due to what it used to take purchase it. Missed opportunity, I doubt main stream hemi tick testing will be a thing anymore. Now you can at least get it on amazon, so easier to get.

 

[Tony Donato]

I doubt main stream hemi tick testing will be a thing anymore.

Stellantis likes money. They might minimally update the 5.7 HEMI to pass future emissions (like installing an EGR cooler and an EGR valve, and choke it to death), and install it again in the RAM 1500 and the new Charger. After all, the 5.7 HEMI was cheaper to build for FCA than the Pentastar. The only reason why they put the Pentastar in everything is due to CAFE credits.

 

[Tony Donato]

@Hemi395 @Wild one @Burla @HEMIMANN you guys might like this...

A brand new stock HEMI throttle body installed on a Pentastar 3.6 V6 PUG engine:

View attachment 545801

Here is the finished installation:

View attachment 545802View attachment 545803

Here is a true 90mm (not ported) aluminum billet throttle body installed on the 5.7 HEMI in our 2016 RAM 1500:

View attachment 545805

Finished installation:

View attachment 545808

On all vehicles these setups have changed the engine sounds and low-end torque got a nice improvement. Fuel mileage, not so much.

 

[Wild one]

@Hemi395 @Wild one @Burla @HEMIMANN you guys might like this...

A brand new stock HEMI throttle body installed on a Pentastar 3.6 V6 PUG engine:

View attachment 545801

Here is the finished installation:

View attachment 545802View attachment 545803

Here is a true 90mm (not ported) aluminum billet throttle body installed on the 5.7 HEMI in our 2016 RAM 1500:

View attachment 545805

Finished installation:

View attachment 545808

On all vehicles these setups have changed the engine sounds and low-end torque got a nice improvement. Fuel mileage, not so much.

You're not gaining anything with a bigger throttle body on a stock engine,especially torque,as the throttle body on a stock 5.7 is not an issue.The 485 horse Scatpacks use the identical 251 casting throttle bodies as the 5.7's use,and even on them you don't upgrade the throttle body till you've done ported heads / ported intake / bigger cam /headers etc.,or adding boost.You might want to check out that 90 mm BBK's rep,it's not good,you'd be farther ahead using a Khoas adapter and bolting the 90mm Hellcat throttle body on.I have 90 mm Hellcat throttle body,and complete hellcat airbox on my wifes nitrous'd 1320,and it didn't really gain anything at the track that shows on a timeslip,same as my cammed/long tubes/nitrous'd truck,bolting a 84 mm ported Fastman throttle body on it,didn't gain it anything either at the track. Before i'd believe you,you're gonna have to come up with timeslips that back up your claim.It's easy to swap throttle bodies at the track,so i'd like to see before and after timeslips.

 

[TC]

What are your thoughts on running Valvoline Protect and Restore 5W30 with Lubegard Biotech?

 

[Burla]

I wouldnt, biotech is a plating additive, restore is a cleaning additive. Just not worth the risk, if you want it clean just run the valvoline. We only know the science of one additive, not sure we know enough about restore product yet.

Might be mixing esters blindly.

 

[Tony Donato]

You're not gaining anything with a bigger throttle body on a stock engine,especially torque,as the throttle body on a stock 5.7 is not an issue.The 485 horse Scatpacks use the identical 251 casting throttle bodies as the 5.7's use,and even on them you don't upgrade the throttle body till you've done ported heads / ported intake / bigger cam /headers etc.,or adding boost.You might want to check out that 90 mm BBK's rep,it's not good,you'd be farther ahead using a Khoas adapter and bolting the 90mm Hellcat throttle body on.I have 90 mm Hellcat throttle body,and complete hellcat airbox on my wifes nitrous'd 1320,and it didn't really gain anything at the track that shows on a timeslip,same as my cammed/long tubes/nitrous'd truck,bolting a 84 mm ported Fastman throttle body on it,didn't gain it anything either at the track. Before i'd believe you,you're gonna have to come up with timeslips that back up your claim.It's easy to swap throttle bodies at the track,so i'd like to see before and after timeslips.

It's not a BBK throttle body. I believe these are made in the same place that makes the aftermarket throttle bodies for Whipple - probably a "third shift" product - Made in China. I've been running it for a couple of months now and I have no issues with it. It came with an adapter in the kit and I used it. Other than pressing the throttle three times with the key in the on position, right before starting the engine, I didn't have to do anything else. It works fine. However, I am not racing the truck. It's used pleasure and work. The engine sounds great, and it feels great. Next thing I have to replace is the plastic intake manifold. It's got a leak where the PCV valve towers up. It had that since new, it's probably a hairline crack. I already have a replacement manifold, just need to find the time.

Last year I visited the Modern Muscle Extreme facility in Virginia, and I picked up a ported throttle body for our Jeep GK WK2 (Pentastar PUG) - 80 mm vs 74 mm stock. The guys said the ported throttle body is good for an extra 10 crank horsepower, which isn't much, but it's something. They said that for more, I would need a tune. For the Durango I decided to get a HEMI TB adapter instead of a ported TB. The ported TB is Mopar.

View attachment 545844

All these mods started with me replacing the Jeep's plastic oil filter housing, as it cracked at 6K miles and started leaking coolant. One night, driving home, I smelled burned coolant. Sure enough, it was cracked. I replaced it with an aluminum Dorman unit. Then I did it on the Durango as well as a precaution.

Not a fun job on a PUG engine:

View attachment 545846

View attachment 545847

 

[Tony Donato]

What are your thoughts on running Valvoline Protect and Restore 5W30 with Lubegard Biotech?

Valvoline R&P has a Afton Chemical additive package that was tweaked to free deposits in the engine. If your engine is well maintained, you don't need it. It's a very good product, but the main goal is cleaning.

Get Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage. It has a boat load of Moly and the base oil is GTL. Don't let the "High Mileage" part scare you, it's very good oil. It's formulated with extra anti wear additives, which you want, including around ~300+ ppm of Moly, and extra seal conditioner, which you also want. I actually want that on brand new engines. Regular motor oils are formulated to be neutral for seals, so they don't condition them. The problem is that as the oil gets older in the engine, it's worse for the seals, so a High Mileage oil is better. I'm not talk about boutique oils like AMSOIL, Red Line, HPL, Driven, etc., all of these have extra seal conditioners in their formulation.

 

[HEMIMANN]

For the few of us running HPL; they're having a 4th of July sale, 25% off automatically applied when purchased on the 3rd or 4th, orders will ship out on the 8th due to limited staff.

Time to stock up!

Automotive Lubricants

Advanced Lubrication, Inc.

www.advlubrication.com

Thanks for posting. I gotta start buying again soon, almost out of Red Line.

How did you find out about their sale? You get on a mailing list once you buy the 1st time?

And - based on your field test results - it's confusing which way to go, PCMO 5W-30 or SC 0W-30. The purely spec analysis I did on a spreadsheet pointed to SC 0W-30 being optimal, that was before no vii recipes came out and I didn't study those.

I'm pretty insistent on SAE 30 for engine running. Since HPL doesn't blend heavy esters, maybe we don't need 0W in PAO base oil for winter starting? But for whatever reason, they toned down their 100C viscosity in their 5W-30 compared to their 0W-30. Confused.

 

[Tony Donato]

Thanks for posting. I gotta start buying again soon, almost out of Red Line.

How did you find out about their sale? You get on a mailing list once you buy the 1st time?

And - based on your field test results - it's confusing which way to go, PCMO 5W-30 or SC 0W-30. The purely spec analysis I did on a spreadsheet pointed to SC 0W-30 being optimal, that was before no vii recipes came out and I didn't study those.

I'm pretty insistent on SAE 30 for engine running. Since HPL doesn't blend heavy esters, maybe we don't need 0W in PAO base oil for winter starting? But for whatever reason, they toned down their 100C viscosity in their 5W-30 compared to their 0W-30. Confused.

Go with HPL Super Car 0W-40. It's their highest end motor oil, and the most expensive to make, and it doesn't shear. The good news is you can run it all year, without the need to run a thinner oil in winter.

It's a blend of PAO + POE + AN + Infineum Additive Package - it doesn't get any better than this.

Here is a VOA:

 

[ramffml]

Thanks for posting. I gotta start buying again soon, almost out of Red Line.

How did you find out about their sale? You get on a mailing list once you buy the 1st time?

And - based on your field test results - it's confusing which way to go, PCMO 5W-30 or SC 0W-30. The purely spec analysis I did on a spreadsheet pointed to SC 0W-30 being optimal, that was before no vii recipes came out and I didn't study those.

I'm pretty insistent on SAE 30 for engine running. Since HPL doesn't blend heavy esters, maybe we don't need 0W in PAO base oil for winter starting? But for whatever reason, they toned down their 100C viscosity in their 5W-30 compared to their 0W-30. Confused.

They posted the sale on bitog.

This is far more your area than mine, I know diddly squat about oil so I wouldn't read too much into my random thoughts. All I have to work from are the UOA's, and my ears, and more than one person has said that sound isn't necessarily indicative of wear.

But if there are several great choices available to me and one sounds quieter, I'll pick the one that sounds better to me. My engine definitely got noisy again this summer (no vii), if it gets quiet again in the winter when I run PCMO then I'll have 4 back to back tests which go:
no vii = noisier (last summer), pcmo = quieter (last winter), no vii = nosier (where we are now), and pcmo = quieter (to be tested in the fall/winter).

All this (noisy vs quiet) is only on that initial cold start, even on a hot summer day. When any of the premium oils I've tried are hot and my truck is idling, they're all buttery smooth and quiet for the most part, I couldn't possibly say with any certainty if I noticed one being noiser than the other. Only that cold start because it's so obvious that something is making noise that "shouldn't be there" IMHO.

 

[Hemi395]

Go with HPL Super Car 0W-40. It's their highest end motor oil, and the most expensive to make, and it doesn't shear. The good news is you can run it all year, without the need to run a thinner oil in winter.

It's a blend of PAO + POE + AN + Infineum Additive Package - it doesn't get any better than this.

Here is a VOA:

View attachment 545859

That is a nice add pack.......