Towing help for someone brand new to trucks and towing.

[Dean2]

Staying in the payload ballpark makes sense, but to read the towing posts of late, you would think you need to worry about every little thing you carry. I know what my pickup is supposed to weigh empty, I know what it weighs normally loaded with 2 or 4 people in it. I also know what it weighs fully rigged to go hunting. Here we are lucky enough to have free road side scales we can use 24 hours a day. My pickup varies from 7500 to 9500 pounds, without a trailer on and has a 10,000 GVW. If I hooked up a trailer and ended up 500 pounds over the payload, I sure wouldn't be losing much sleep over it.

 

[ram71093]

It subtracts from your payload/cargo capacity. So, if you have 1423# for your payload capacity, then drop 800# onto the hitch, you will only have 623# left over to put in the truck. That includes gear in the bed of the truck (coolers, camping gear), people riding in the cab, your jumper cables behind the seat, etc. It also includes anything you added after you bought the truck - running boards, a winch, your weight distribution hitch (WDH), a roll bar, etc.

My trucks weight according to the sticker is 7,100lbs. It came with factory running boards. Is that part of the 7,100lbs or is my truck technically heavier now with them? Also, would it help if I loaded everything in the trailer and kept the truck for only passengers? Does a WDH hitch increase the payload at all? Thanks.

 

[ram71093]

Staying in the payload ballpark makes sense, but to read the towing posts of late, you would think you need to worry about every little thing you carry. I know what my pickup is supposed to weigh empty, I know what it weighs normally loaded with 2 or 4 people in it. I also know what it weighs fully rigged to go hunting. Here we are lucky enough to have free road side scales we can use 24 hours a day. My pickup varies from 7500 to 9500 pounds, without a trailer on and has a 10,000 GVW. If I hooked up a trailer and ended up 500 pounds over the payload, I sure wouldn't be losing much sleep over it.

Great to know thanks. I'm picturing my truck breaking in half if I'm a few pounds over payload.

 

[crash68]

My trucks weight according to the sticker is 7,100lbs.

That 7100 lbs is the trucks Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR), that's the total weight the truck should weight when fully loaded. Your truck is about 5600 lbs unloaded.
On the door tag is also the GAWRs, those are especially important for knowing so the axles are not overloaded. Watching the GAWRs is more important than the GVWR.
Another term that may come up is GCVWR, that's the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating which is the truck and trailer together.

 

[Tulecreeper]

My trucks weight according to the sticker is 7,100lbs. It came with factory running boards. Is that part of the 7,100lbs or is my truck technically heavier now with them? Also, would it help if I loaded everything in the trailer and kept the truck for only passengers? Does a WDH hitch increase the payload at all? Thanks.

Yes, the running boards are part of the 7100 pounds, but 7100 pounds sounds awfully heavy to me. Are you sure that the sticker doesn't say that your GVWR is 7100 pounds? If so, then the 7100 pounds is what your truck is allowed to weigh, with all cargo and people added. I ask because I have a 2023 RAM 2500, and it only weighs 5900 pouinds, but its GVWR is 10,000 pounds.

Your payload capacity is based on what it came off the assembly line with, and includes all fluids - gas, oil, transmission, etc. So, the payload capacity listed on your door pillar is taking into consideration everything it rolled out of the manufacturing plant with. And no, adding a WDH does not increase your payload capacity. What it does is move some of the weight that is pushing down on your rear axle (from the hitch weight) back to the front axle and helps to level out your truck again so it is not rear-heavy and you have better steering control.

 

[ram71093]

That 7100 lbs is the trucks Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR), that's the total weight the truck should weight when fully loaded. Your truck is about 5600 lbs unloaded.
On the door tag is also the GAWRs, those are especially important for knowing so the axles are not overloaded. Watching the GAWRs is more important than the GVWR.
Another term that may come up is GCVWR, that's the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating which is the truck and trailer together.

That makes sense, thank you.
.

 

[ram71093]

Yes, the running boards are part of the 7100 pounds, but 7100 pounds sounds awfully heavy to me. Are you sure that the sticker doesn't say that your GVWR is 7100 pounds? If so, then the 7100 pounds is what your truck is allowed to weigh, with all cargo and people added. I ask because I have a 2023 RAM 2500, and it only weighs 5900 pouinds, but its GVWR is 10,000 pounds.

Your payload capacity is based on what it came off the assembly line with, and includes all fluids - gas, oil, transmission, etc. So, the payload capacity listed on your door pillar is taking into consideration everything it rolled out of the manufacturing plant with. And no, adding a WDH does not increase your payload capacity. What it does is move some of the weight that is pushing down on your rear axle (from the hitch weight) back to the front axle and helps to level out your truck again so it is not rear-heavy and you have better steering control.

Yes you're right, that's my gvwr.

 

[ram71093]

It would be part of your payload.
I made the hitch weight guesstimate based on a similar trailer I have. Advertised tongue weight of 597, weighed after manufacture at 660( by the manufacturer), lightly loaded and weighed at a CAT scale over 900.

Which trailer do you have if you don't mind me asking and would you be comfortable pulling it with my payload capacity? (1423lbs)

 

[Tulecreeper]

Which trailer do you have if you don't mind me asking and would you be comfortable pulling it with my payload capacity? (1423lbs)

That's not the question to ask, since your payload capacity has nothing to do with your towing capacity. Unless you go over your payload capacity, then the physics change. In other words, your towing capacity remains the same no matter how much your truck weighs...up to a point.

 

[tron67j]

You ask a lot of good questions and there is a great deal of useful information here. As you have found, everyone's set ups are different.

The very best thing to do is always start with the tow vehicle. Load it up with hitch, people, all the pets, gear everyone brings and anything you might throw in bed. Take that to a CAT scale and get your weights. One will be your total vehicle weight. Take that and subtract from your GVWR on your door jamb, that is your remaining payload.

For the trailer. It is crazy how fast the battery, propane tanks, other add-ons and all your camping gear add to your trailer weight and push the to gue weight up there. Once you load it all, you could get a weighsafe hitch to weigh the tongue or take it all fully loaded to the CAT scale. Get tongue weight and axle weight.

While you should be okay, doing this all will give you piece of mind that it is correct instead of us telling you. Also, it can help you balance load correctly. Nothing gets the blood pumping like being near max numbers on a 1500 and having that tail wag.

Good luck

 

[JayLeonard]

Which trailer do you have if you don't mind me asking and would you be comfortable pulling it with my payload capacity? (1423lbs)

I started with a 1500 and had about your payload capacity. My hitch weight was about 950 lbs according to the cat scale figures. That didn’t give me any wiggle room for payload.
The hemi pulled fine and braked fine but was constantly shifting gears and getting sucked in by the semis.
I ended up getting a 2500 diesel and now I am overtrucked and extremely stabil when trucks pass me. And it rarely shifts out of high gear unless I’m in the mountains.
Everybody’s different and has different risk levels. I don’t look back on my decision.

 

[ram71093]

I started with a 1500 and had about your payload capacity. My hitch weight was about 950 lbs according to the cat scale figures. That didn’t give me any wiggle room for payload.
The hemi pulled fine and braked fine but was constantly shifting gears and getting sucked in by the semis.
I ended up getting a 2500 diesel and now I am overtrucked and extremely stabil when trucks pass me. And it rarely shifts out of high gear unless I’m in the mountains.
Everybody’s different and has different risk levels. I don’t look back on my decision.

I'd only be towing 2-3 times a year and not further than about 4 hours in and around the north east. The 1500 is my daily and I'll be driving without towing 95% of the time so I'm hoping I can make this setup work. I'd love to get a 2500 but it wouldn't make sense for my situation. Did you ride with full water tanks? The 243bhs has a 41gal tank I believe and I'd be hopefully towing dry and filling up at the site. I'm not sure what the gray water and black water tanks are but I'm assuming I'd want them full while towing?

 

[JayLeonard]

I'd only be towing 2-3 times a year and not further than about 4 hours in and around the north east. The 1500 is my daily and I'll be driving without towing 95% of the time so I'm hoping I can make this setup work. I'd love to get a 2500 but it wouldn't make sense for my situation. Did you ride with full water tanks? The 243bhs has a 41gal tank I believe and I'd be hopefully towing dry and filling up at the site. I'm not sure what the gray water and black water tanks are but I'm assuming I'd want them full while towing?

Never had more than about 15 gal fresh water and emptied my holding tanks at every campground as I left. I knew we were going to be towing in Colorado as we did last summer and in update Ny and Vt this summer.
Like I said everyone has different risk tolerances.

 

[Tulecreeper]

I'd only be towing 2-3 times a year and not further than about 4 hours in and around the north east. The 1500 is my daily and I'll be driving without towing 95% of the time so I'm hoping I can make this setup work. I'd love to get a 2500 but it wouldn't make sense for my situation. Did you ride with full water tanks? The 243bhs has a 41gal tank I believe and I'd be hopefully towing dry and filling up at the site. I'm not sure what the gray water and black water tanks are but I'm assuming I'd want them full while towing?

The black water tank is the septic tank for your toilet. The gray water tank is the holding tank for your shower, and kitchen/bathroom sinks. Ideally, you would want to tow with all of them empty, but that is not always feasible since there may be no dump station where you will be camping if you're boondocking.

And, since you can't always be positive there will be fresh potable water when you get to where you're going it would behoove you to carry at least a half tank of fresh water with you.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Here is a quick way to get your tongue weight without having to go to a CAT scale. Quite accurate, actually.

How To Find Trailer Tongue Weight (DIY bathroom scale) #rvlife

Quick video describing how to weigh a trailer tongue at home with a bathroom scale.#swagnationâ #jointhepackâWant to save money on your next fuel stop? Look ...

youtu.be

 

[ram71093]

Here is a quick way to get your tongue weight without having to go to a CAT scale. Quite accurate,actually.

How To Find Trailer Tongue Weight (DIY bathroom scale) #rvlife

Quick video describing how to weigh a trailer tongue at home with a bathroom scale.#swagnationâ #jointhepackâWant to save money on your next fuel stop? Look ...

youtu.be

Wow awesome thanks

 

[ram71093]

The black water tank is the septic tank for your toilet. The gray water tank is the holding tank for your shower, and kitchen/bathroom sinks. Ideally, you would want to tow with all of them empty, but that is not always feasible since there may be no dump station where you will be camping if you're boondocking.

And, since you can't always be positive there will be fresh potable water when you get to where you're going it would behoove you to carry at least a half tank of fresh water with you.

Good to know thanks. There are a few rv parks within a few hours from me that have Electric and water hook ups, I don't see myself ever boondocking. If I'm able to fill all tanks there it'd be a great way to possiblly 500lbs of payload unless I'm wrong (which I most likely am lol)

 

[Tulecreeper]

Good to know thanks. There are a few rv parks within a few hours from me that have Electric and water hook ups, I don't see myself ever boondocking. If I'm able to fill all tanks there it'd be a great way to possiblly 500lbs of payload unless I'm wrong (which I most likely am lol)

Traveling/towing with a full tank of fresh water is not a bad idea, and may actually help to balance your loaded trailer. But you want to dump your black and gray water tanks before you leave your camping site. And don't make the mistake of leaving the tank drains for the black and gray tanks open while you're camping. You want to leave them closed until they are more than half full, then drain them. That way they will, #1- drain correctly, and #2- you will not build up a "poo pyramid" in your black tank. That is when you leave the drain valve open and don't maintain any water in the tank and the waste just drops to the bottom and sticks, eventually building up a pile that is extremely difficult to get rid of.

Leaving the gray water tank closed most of the time also helps keep external smells down. Just washing dishes and having food particles drain into the tank can cause odors when those particles stick to the bottom of the tank and start to decay.

 

[ram71093]

Thanks for the info, it's definitely helpful

 

[Tulecreeper]

Thanks for the info, it's definitely helpful

You are quite welcome. I lived full-time in a MH and TT for 5 years, and the wife and I are preparing to sell our home and property and do it again for as long as we can stand each other. Feel free to PM me if you want any more info. As I mentioned, there's a learning curve to get used to but it really isn't that involved.