Towing with no oil in the transmission

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PhilSimmons

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G'day everyone.
I have a 2023 Longhorn 1500. I'm in remote (outback) NSW Australia and have put a stick through the oil pan of the transmission.
I need to tow it out of the scrub (bush) that it's sitting in to enable a tilt tray truck to get to it.
I need to go about 5km(3 miles) at a very slow pace. What should I do apart from manually putting the transmission into neutral?
Should I disconnect the tailshaft and can I have the engine running for easier steering and braking?
I'm new to this forum so I hope I'm putting this in the right spot.
Cheers
 

04fxdwgi

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Do NOT keep engine running with no fluid in transmission.. That will destroy the fluid pump in the front of the xmission.

If it is a 2 wheel drive, disconnect the drive / tail shaft to prevent the transmission from spinning with no fluid flow and keep in "Park" when towing it.. If it's a 4x4, put the transfer case in neutral ..

Your owners manual should explain in detail on what to do.

PS: I would replace that transmission pan with an aluminum one, such as below. Stick aint going through it.

1781419278476.png
 
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Wild one

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G'day everyone.
I have a 2023 Longhorn 1500. I'm in remote (outback) NSW Australia and have put a stick through the oil pan of the transmission.
I need to tow it out of the scrub (bush) that it's sitting in to enable a tilt tray truck to get to it.
I need to go about 5km(3 miles) at a very slow pace. What should I do apart from manually putting the transmission into neutral?
Should I disconnect the tailshaft and can I have the engine running for easier steering and braking?
I'm new to this forum so I hope I'm putting this in the right spot.
Cheers
Hopefully you didn't drive it after it lost the fluid,as you might be looking at putting a new transmission in it.Auto transmissions don't take kindly to being drove with no fluid. As 04 stated "Do Not" start it with out any fluid in the transmission
 

MrBonez

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G'day everyone.
I have a 2023 Longhorn 1500. I'm in remote (outback) NSW Australia and have put a stick through the oil pan of the transmission.
I need to tow it out of the scrub (bush) that it's sitting in to enable a tilt tray truck to get to it.
I need to go about 5km(3 miles) at a very slow pace. What should I do apart from manually putting the transmission into neutral?
Should I disconnect the tailshaft and can I have the engine running for easier steering and braking?
I'm new to this forum so I hope I'm putting this in the right spot.
Cheers
As long as you have some fluid in it you should be able to get it where it needs to be for the tilt-truck (Flatbed) to load it I'd think.
If the stick really punched a big hole in the pan, just take it slow and DO NOT run the engine at all.

Set the transfer case in neutral and proceed with the pull as you described (Slow).

Looks to be a case of there is no real easy way out without some risk, but that's probrably the best way to get it done under the circumstances and maybe nothing else bad would happen.
Just remember you've got as long as it takes time-wise to get it where it needs to be.... Because that's how long it will take anyway.

If there is a way you can temporarliy plug the hole in the pan to hold or at least hold enough fluid for long enough to make the tow, I'd do that and drop some fluid in - That's better than doing it dry all the way and pouring some fluid in is cheaper (And easier) than repairing/replacing the trans itself.

EDIT:
Depending on the hole you've got
there may be a way to patch it well enough for holding fluid, depending on what's avaliable to you for the job.
If you have access to whats called "Gorilla Tape":

OIP-278409871.jpg

That combined with a nice sheet of tinfoil folded a few times (At least two to four sheets thick when done) to create a strong enough patch that completely covers the hole, that can do it. You may also want to slather some silicone to the sheet on the side towards the hole when it's in place, use a silicone like Form-A-Gasket so it resists oil from affecting things and making the entire work fail.


You will need to make dam sure the surface of the pan around the hole is clean and oil-free for the gorilla tape to stick and hold.

That means you'll need to take along some stuff to clean and degrease the area around the hole - Wherever the tape will be sticking to.
Don't forget you can even wrap it around the pan, back to itself with a few rounds of it if required since it sticks nicely to itself but do heed the above caution wherever it's stuck to on the pan or all that will be useless anyway.

Start by placing the folded tinfoil sheet in place like a patch and first, go around the edges of the sheet with the tape and also be sure the tape goes on a flatly as possible (No wrinkles if you can), then go across (Cover) the bottom of the patch too to give it all enough strength so the weight of the fluid itself doesn't bust it out.
Don't be stingy with the tape either, use as much as you need (And maybe a bit more) to make sure it doesn't bust out from the vehicle bouncing, making the fluid splash and so on.
If you used silicone on the sheet/hole, once it's in place let it all sit/cure for about 30 minutes minimum so you know the silicone should be helping too as much as it will if it can at all - And it should.

From there, just add fluid and pull it, watching to see if any fluid seepage (If it happens) doesn't affect the tape's glue.
DO NOT try to run it because heat from the trans will make the tape's glue get soft/weak and fail for sure.

If that seems like it might work, good luck.
 
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04fxdwgi

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If he could get a sling truck in there, then disconnecting the drive shaft (2x4) or putting the xfer case in Neutral (4x4) will make it easy peasy without any xmission damage.
 
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Wild one

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As long as you have some fluid in it you should be able to get it where it needs to be for the tilt-truck (Flatbed) to load it I'd think.
If the stick really punched a big hole in the pan, just take it slow and DO NOT run the engine at all.

Set the transfer case in neutral and proceed with the pull as you described (Slow).

Looks to be a case of there is no real easy way out without some risk, but that's probrably the best way to get it done under the circumstances and maybe nothing else bad would happen.
Just remember you've got as long as it takes time-wise to get it where it needs to be.... Because that's how long it will take anyway.

If there is a way you can temporarliy plug the hole in the pan to hold or at least hold enough fluid for long enough to make the tow, I'd do that and drop some fluid in - That's better than doing it dry all the way and pouring some fluid in is cheaper (And easier) than repairing/replacing the trans itself.

EDIT:
Depending on the hole you've got
there may be a way to patch it well enough for holding fluid, depending on what's avaliable to you for the job.
If you have access to whats called "Gorilla Tape":

View attachment 585512

That combined with a nice sheet of tinfoil folded a few times (At least two to four sheets thick when done) to create a strong enough patch that completely covers the hole, that can do it. You may also want to slather some silicone to the sheet on the side towards the hole when it's in place, use a silicone like Form-A-Gasket so it resists oil from affecting things and making the entire work fail.


You will need to make dam sure the surface of the pan around the hole is clean and oil-free for the gorilla tape to stick and hold.

That means you'll need to take along some stuff to clean and degrease the area around the hole - Wherever the tape will be sticking to.
Don't forget you can even wrap it around the pan, back to itself with a few rounds of it if required since it sticks nicely to itself but do heed the above caution wherever it's stuck to on the pan or all that will be useless anyway.

Start by placing the folded tinfoil sheet in place like a patch and first, go around the edges of the sheet with the tape and also be sure the tape goes on a flatly as possible (No wrinkles if you can), then go across (Cover) the bottom of the patch too to give it all enough strength so the weight of the fluid itself doesn't bust it out.
Don't be stingy with the tape either, use as much as you need (And maybe a bit more) to make sure it doesn't bust out from the vehicle bouncing, making the fluid splash and so on.
If you used silicone on the sheet/hole, once it's in place let it all sit/cure for about 30 minutes minimum so you know the silicone should be helping too as much as it will if it can at all - And it should.

From there, just add fluid and pull it, watching to see if any fluid seepage (If it happens) doesn't affect the tape's glue.
DO NOT try to run it because heat from the trans will make the tape's glue get soft/weak and fail for sure.

If that seems like it might work, good luck.
It's not worth the risk to try and patch a hole in a tranny pan back in the bush.If he can patch it,he can swap the pan just as easy instead of goobbering it back together. You might as well take a couple jacks/some plywood and blocking and enough tranny fluid and tools back in with you,and swap the pan right where it sits,that'd be his best option i'd think.Not the first time something has needed to be fixed where it sits out in the toolies
 

caulk04

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Engine off, drive shaft removed or t case in neutral. Those are your only safe steps to move the vehicle beyond a couple hundred feet.

Normal fluid level is above the pan altogether so any hole in the pan will not allow enough fluid to be present for operation.
 

MrBonez

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It's not worth the risk to try and patch a hole in a tranny pan back in the bush.If he can patch it,he can swap the pan just as easy instead of goobbering it back together. You might as well take a couple jacks/some plywood and blocking and enough tranny fluid and tools back in with you,and swap the pan right where it sits,that'd be his best option i'd think.Not the first time something has needed to be fixed where it sits out in the toolies
Bear in mind all that was just to get it out via pulling/towing to a place a flatbed can get it - Not to actually try and drive it.
They can do proper repairs once it's back at a shop.

It also depends on conditions where it is, which I'd have to guess are towards the worse/extreme side.

However it goes I can only wish them luck here.
 

TradesmanGuy

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I once had a neighbor that would let his camaro idle for at least 10 minutes after draining the engine oil. Claimed it fully and completely drained all the oil before filling it back up. I thought it was strange, and still do, but his Camaro seemed just fine with that process.
 

Grams

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I once had a neighbor that would let his camaro idle for at least 10 minutes after draining the engine oil. Claimed it fully and completely drained all the oil before filling it back up. I thought it was strange, and still do, but his Camaro seemed just fine with that process.
Even goofier…. as a 16 yr old I did an oil change of my parents ‘64 318 Dodge …and being an ignorant kid… I drained the oil…. poured-in a gallon of kerosene…and ran it up for about 15 mins…at pretty good RPM too….Thinking I was “flushing” out that engne.

I got away with it… and 8 years later… Dad gave me that car for a work-buggy. It had 120K miles on it by then…and I put another 80K on it…before I sold it to a buddy cheap ..who drove it into old Mexico where it disappeared.

That kerosene episode didn’t seem to hurt it any….but I’m lucky I didn’t get caught and it didn’t blow up.
 

04fxdwgi

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Even goofier…. as a 16 yr old I did an oil change of my parents ‘64 318 Dodge …and being an ignorant kid… I drained the oil…. poured-in a gallon of kerosene…and ran it up for about 15 mins…at pretty good RPM too….Thinking I was “flushing” out that engne.

I got away with it… and 8 years later… Dad gave me that car for a work-buggy. It had 120K miles on it by then…and I put another 80K on it…before I sold it to a buddy cheap ..who drove it into old Mexico where it disappeared.

That kerosene episode didn’t seem to hurt it any….but I’m lucky I didn’t get caught and it didn’t blow up.
Did that on a 59 Ford 292 "Y" block, also, but with diesel by mistake. Was 16 when I used to suck gas out of father's big car carrier truck. That was a Dodge with the 413 in it. Unbenounced to me, he got a new truck and it was diesel, and I did the "questionable fuel ownership transfer" again. Big surprise. Bright side, no mosquitos around for a while.

. Still burned more oil than fuel, as it always did, but it didn't die.
 

Marshall

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I know a young guy that had a 65 fury 111, hardtop 318 , gobs of miles, he would change oil filter, but not oil, just add a quart if needed.
Strange, but when he skipped town , it was at 140,000 miles and still running fine, oil looked like hell , but he was not a car guy, did not care.

It would be better if the tow truck could get to where it was sitting, but guess that can't happen.
No why will you get a patch job on a ribbed plastic pan to hold oil, waste of oil and time.
this oil is not cheap ATF

Read up on Wild One's post on changing oil on the 8 speed, It will be posted somewhere here. Very good info, as its a bit involved to get proper levels in these trucks.
 

Wild one

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I know a young guy that had a 65 fury 111, hardtop 318 , gobs of miles, he would change oil filter, but not oil, just add a quart if needed.
Strange, but when he skipped town , it was at 140,000 miles and still running fine, oil looked like hell , but he was not a car guy, did not care.

It would be better if the tow truck could get to where it was sitting, but guess that can't happen.
No why will you get a patch job on a ribbed plastic pan to hold oil, waste of oil and time.
this oil is not cheap ATF

Read up on Wild One's post on changing oil on the 8 speed, It will be posted somewhere here. Very good info, as its a bit involved to get proper levels in these trucks.
 

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mdc1990zr1

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I know a young guy that had a 65 fury 111, hardtop 318 , gobs of miles, he would change oil filter, but not oil, just add a quart if needed.
Strange, but when he skipped town , it was at 140,000 miles and still running fine, oil looked like hell , but he was not a car guy, did not care.

It would be better if the tow truck could get to where it was sitting, but guess that can't happen.
No why will you get a patch job on a ribbed plastic pan to hold oil, waste of oil and time.
this oil is not cheap ATF

Read up on Wild One's post on changing oil on the 8 speed, It will be posted somewhere here. Very good info, as its a bit involved to get proper levels in these trucks.
Patching or rigging the old pan in place to hold oil to tow would be the easiest. A pan swap like wild one suggested would be the second choice. The pan only has to hold enough oil to test. The instructions tell you to put enough fluid in till it runs out the fill hole before you start the procedure to make sure there is sufficient fluid to start the test. (The vehicle must be running to perform the check). The cheapest transmission fluid can be used for this, for example, Valvoline Maxlife. A proper drain and fill can be accomplished when you’re “out of the woods”. I personally keep the OEM green fluid in my transmission
 
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Wild one

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Patching or rigging the old pan in place to hold oil to tow would be the easiest. A pan swap like wild one suggested would be the second choice. The pan only has to hold enough oil to test. The instructions tell you to put enough fluid in till it runs out the fill hole before you start the truck. The cheapest transmission fluid can be used for this, for example, Valvoline Maxlife. A proper drain and fill can be accomplished when you’re “out of the woods”. I personally keep the OEM green fluid in my transmission
No where does the Green Sheet say to fill it till it runs out the fill hole before starting the truck,the "2nd step" tells you the engine has to be running the whole time.
Fixing it in the outback wouldn't be any differant then fixing something that's broke when you're out wheeling in the mountains,where you can't get it out unless it's fixed and movable under it's own power
 

mdc1990zr1

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No where does the Green Sheet say to fill it till it runs out the fill hole before starting the truck,the "2nd step" tells you the engine has to be running the whole time.
Fixing it in the outback wouldn't be any differant then fixing something that's broke when you're out wheeling in the mountains,where you can't get it out unless it's fixed and movable under it's own power
Sorry, good catch , amended the quote to emphasize the vehicle must be running the whole time.
 

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