Tony Donato
Banned
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2024
- Posts
- 68
- Reaction score
- 86
- Location
- North Carolina
- Ram Year
- 2016
- Engine
- 5.7 HEMI
Which HPL oil are you running?For the few of us running HPL
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Which HPL oil are you running?For the few of us running HPL
You're tempting me to try this lolFor the few of us running HPL; they're having a 4th of July sale, 25% off automatically applied when purchased on the 3rd or 4th, orders will ship out on the 8th due to limited staff.
Time to stock up!
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I made the switch to HPL last year and its been a fantastic go with it.Which HPL oil are you running?
The consensus on this forum says to use the super car, but I've used:
- no vii euro 5w-30 (summer)
- premium plus 0w-30 (winter)
- pcmo 5w-20 (winter)
Surprisingly the cheapest PCMO sounded the best in my engine by far, no contest. That cold start performance was great, exceeding every other expensive oil I've tried (the other two HPL, Redline, and Mobil 1 0w-40).
I'm running no vii again this summer to use up what I had purchased before discovering that PCMO sounds best, I'll be ordering PCMO 5w-30 for the winter and see how that goes, if it sounds great too then that will be my choice of oil full time from now on.
As for UOA's; the P+ and no vii came back with better reports vs the PCMO, but as of now I think that's simply due to the viscosity, won't know for another year whether that's true or not.
Which one, I don't remember.
HPL in Indiana or HIGH Performance Lubricants in Illinois?
They are both made in the same plant. The red-label HPL is blended specifically for the power-adder market. It's a streetable racing oil. The red-label HPL is a separate company that uses High Performance Lubricants to formulate, blend, and package their oils.HPL in Indiana or HIGH Performance Lubricants in Illinois?
Not enough people even tried it for that, probably due to what it used to take purchase it. Missed opportunity, I doubt main stream hemi tick testing will be a thing anymore. Now you can at least get it on amazon, so easier to get.I think Shaeffer's makes great stuff, but has anyone here shown it to be a tick killer??
Stellantis likes money. They might minimally update the 5.7 HEMI to pass future emissions (like installing an EGR cooler and an EGR valve, and choke it to death), and install it again in the RAM 1500 and the new Charger. After all, the 5.7 HEMI was cheaper to build for FCA than the Pentastar. The only reason why they put the Pentastar in everything is due to CAFE credits.I doubt main stream hemi tick testing will be a thing anymore.
You're not gaining anything with a bigger throttle body on a stock engine,especially torque,as the throttle body on a stock 5.7 is not an issue.The 485 horse Scatpacks use the identical 251 casting throttle bodies as the 5.7's use,and even on them you don't upgrade the throttle body till you've done ported heads / ported intake / bigger cam /headers etc.,or adding boost.You might want to check out that 90 mm BBK's rep,it's not good,you'd be farther ahead using a Khoas adapter and bolting the 90mm Hellcat throttle body on.I have 90 mm Hellcat throttle body,and complete hellcat airbox on my wifes nitrous'd 1320,and it didn't really gain anything at the track that shows on a timeslip,same as my cammed/long tubes/nitrous'd truck,bolting a 84 mm ported Fastman throttle body on it,didn't gain it anything either at the track. Before i'd believe you,you're gonna have to come up with timeslips that back up your claim.It's easy to swap throttle bodies at the track,so i'd like to see before and after timeslips.@Hemi395 @Wild one @Burla @HEMIMANN you guys might like this...
A brand new stock HEMI throttle body installed on a Pentastar 3.6 V6 PUG engine:
View attachment 545801
Here is the finished installation:
View attachment 545802View attachment 545803
Here is a true 90mm (not ported) aluminum billet throttle body installed on the 5.7 HEMI in our 2016 RAM 1500:
View attachment 545805
Finished installation:
View attachment 545808
On all vehicles these setups have changed the engine sounds and low-end torque got a nice improvement. Fuel mileage, not so much.
It's not a BBK throttle body. I believe these are made in the same place that makes the aftermarket throttle bodies for Whipple - probably a "third shift" product - Made in China. I've been running it for a couple of months now and I have no issues with it. It came with an adapter in the kit and I used it. Other than pressing the throttle three times with the key in the on position, right before starting the engine, I didn't have to do anything else. It works fine. However, I am not racing the truck. It's used pleasure and work. The engine sounds great, and it feels great. Next thing I have to replace is the plastic intake manifold. It's got a leak where the PCV valve towers up. It had that since new, it's probably a hairline crack. I already have a replacement manifold, just need to find the time.You're not gaining anything with a bigger throttle body on a stock engine,especially torque,as the throttle body on a stock 5.7 is not an issue.The 485 horse Scatpacks use the identical 251 casting throttle bodies as the 5.7's use,and even on them you don't upgrade the throttle body till you've done ported heads / ported intake / bigger cam /headers etc.,or adding boost.You might want to check out that 90 mm BBK's rep,it's not good,you'd be farther ahead using a Khoas adapter and bolting the 90mm Hellcat throttle body on.I have 90 mm Hellcat throttle body,and complete hellcat airbox on my wifes nitrous'd 1320,and it didn't really gain anything at the track that shows on a timeslip,same as my cammed/long tubes/nitrous'd truck,bolting a 84 mm ported Fastman throttle body on it,didn't gain it anything either at the track. Before i'd believe you,you're gonna have to come up with timeslips that back up your claim.It's easy to swap throttle bodies at the track,so i'd like to see before and after timeslips.
Valvoline R&P has a Afton Chemical additive package that was tweaked to free deposits in the engine. If your engine is well maintained, you don't need it. It's a very good product, but the main goal is cleaning.What are your thoughts on running Valvoline Protect and Restore 5W30 with Lubegard Biotech?
For the few of us running HPL; they're having a 4th of July sale, 25% off automatically applied when purchased on the 3rd or 4th, orders will ship out on the 8th due to limited staff.
Time to stock up!
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Go with HPL Super Car 0W-40. It's their highest end motor oil, and the most expensive to make, and it doesn't shear. The good news is you can run it all year, without the need to run a thinner oil in winter.Thanks for posting. I gotta start buying again soon, almost out of Red Line.
How did you find out about their sale? You get on a mailing list once you buy the 1st time?
And - based on your field test results - it's confusing which way to go, PCMO 5W-30 or SC 0W-30. The purely spec analysis I did on a spreadsheet pointed to SC 0W-30 being optimal, that was before no vii recipes came out and I didn't study those.
I'm pretty insistent on SAE 30 for engine running. Since HPL doesn't blend heavy esters, maybe we don't need 0W in PAO base oil for winter starting? But for whatever reason, they toned down their 100C viscosity in their 5W-30 compared to their 0W-30. Confused.
Thanks for posting. I gotta start buying again soon, almost out of Red Line.
How did you find out about their sale? You get on a mailing list once you buy the 1st time?
And - based on your field test results - it's confusing which way to go, PCMO 5W-30 or SC 0W-30. The purely spec analysis I did on a spreadsheet pointed to SC 0W-30 being optimal, that was before no vii recipes came out and I didn't study those.
I'm pretty insistent on SAE 30 for engine running. Since HPL doesn't blend heavy esters, maybe we don't need 0W in PAO base oil for winter starting? But for whatever reason, they toned down their 100C viscosity in their 5W-30 compared to their 0W-30. Confused.
That is a nice add pack.......Go with HPL Super Car 0W-40. It's their highest end motor oil, and the most expensive to make, and it doesn't shear. The good news is you can run it all year, without the need to run a thinner oil in winter.
It's a blend of PAO + POE + AN + Infineum Additive Package - it doesn't get any better than this.
Here is a VOA:
View attachment 545859