8hp70 heater bypass

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Wild one

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I don't understand this ... when I removed the "snap ring", my "plug" shot out spraying me with an shot of tranny fluid ... tastes horrible ...

There's bound to to be an simple solution to get the "plug" out as it's not being forcefully held in place by removing the "snap ring" ...?
Are you saying it's not a good Whiskey mix J,lol
 

Lysergic

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I'm in agreement with the JB-Weld suggestions. Find a small, durable piece of plastic that you can create nub out of and JB-Weld it to the plug. Give it a few days of cure time and attempt the removal again. I'm iffy on the screw-in-the-plug idea. Mine came out out easily, but it is a new truck and wasn't in there "cooking" for thousands of miles.
 

Heathen-19

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Failed install. I have a 23 1500, 4WD, followed the instructions from your auto huckleberry (which are great) and I failed to get the black plug out.

The pictures from the documentation show the plug has a nipple on it so that you can grab it via pliers and get a bite on it but my plug is completely smooth on the face. The only way to get it out is to drill it or super glue a nail to it and try to pull it out.

I didn't have time.

@caulk04 any thoughts on how to proceed or a part number for the plug so.I can order one in event I destroy the original getting it out?

I got the snap ring off, no problem and I do have 90 degree pliers, but again, there is nothing to bite into on the plug!

Any help would be appreciated, so close.
Duck tape. Maybe using a small width of it and taping it to the surface of the plug and pulling it off like ripping off a bandaid might pull it out?? I would clean the surface of the plug as to get the maximum adhesion you can. That way you are not destroying the plug.
 

BlownGP

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I've tried searching for thermal management unit or cooler and no luck. Can you tell me what you searched for?

I too wanted a back up. So I bought this. I couldn't find the cap by it self.

The cap is the same as on the Ram

I'm surprised yours doesn't have a nub. That's weird. Although I would be nervous as ****!! hahah. Drilling a screw into seems like the best idea.

I too had trouble getting mine out with a nipple. Which is why I bought that Trans cooler off amazon for a back up.
 
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skates15

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I too wanted a back up. So I bought this. I couldn't find the cap by it self.

The cap is the same as on the Ram

I'm surprised yours doesn't have a nub. That's weird. Although I would be nervous as ****!! hahah. Drilling a screw into seems like the best idea.

I too had trouble getting mine out with a nipple. Which is why I bought that Trans cooler off ebay for a back up.
That's a great catch, thank you. Any idea if the cap fits a 2023 5th gen? Info states it fits 2018, doesn't mention 5th gen.
 
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skates15

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Clean the crap out of the plug,scuff it up with some 180 grit sandpaper,and JB Weld a nail or screw to it,use the old style "original" JB Weld,not the 5 minute stuff. A cleaned up and sanded nail head will stick good to the plug,if you're scared to run a screw into the plug. Any hole you do leave in the plug can be repaired with JB Weld.
Awesome! I'm going to try this, sounds like the best solution and I'm not drilling anything. Much appreciated
 

Daniel Ortiz

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If you only need a new plug cap, the cheapest way is to buy the RevMax kit for the brass one. Only $105. I bought this as well when I installed the bypass plug. I almost replaced my black plastic one with this brass one, but the inner sleeve that holds the chrome pin was a little tight. I ran a drill bit through the sleeve to widen it, but then it was a TINY bit loose, and I just figured stick with what I already knew was working: the original black plastic one. But if it had no nub, I'd would definitely use the brass one.

EDIT

Whoa, I just looked at that Doorman replacement unit for $45 (see post 764). I take it back. If that fits, that is definitely the cheapest option.
 
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caulk04

caulk04

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Not a new version, but an optional add on. I still need to verify fit and function in a TMU, but I'm certain it's going to work.

For those who want or need to replace the factory plastic cap. Only for use with the bypass valve.
 

skates15

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If you only need a new plug cap, the cheapest way is to buy the RevMax kit for the brass one. Only $105. I bought this as well when I installed the bypass plug. I almost replaced my black plastic one with this brass one, but the inner sleeve that holds the chrome pin was a little tight. I ran a drill bit through the sleeve to widen it, but then it was a TINY bit loose, and I just figured stick with what I already knew was working: the original black plastic one. But if it had no nub, I'd would definitely use the brass one.

EDIT

Whoa, I just looked at that Doorman replacement unit for $45 (see post 764). I take it back. If that fits, that is definitely the cheapest option.
I suppose I could get it and try it out. No loss if it doesn't as I'll be prepared to use the suggestion from wild one to use JB weld.

Edit: ill wait to see if I can buy from Caulk.
 

JHoward

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I would like to be the first to buy and try.

Jesse's cap ("metal plug") is going to most likely be a money saver, compared to buying the RevMax set up, and be of the same or much better quality.

I'm interested in purchasing Jesse's(@caulk04)metal plug when he makes note that he is taking orders on his supplemental transmission thermostat by-pass kit.
 
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BlownGP

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Jessie. You sob!!!!!!!!!!! That looks beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!

I will probably keep my stock one. BUT my dad has a 22 5th gen Ram and I've been wanting to install your bypass but didn't want to fool with that black cap again and mess something up. Because it's his truck and not mine. You know what I mean..
This would be a awesome solution.
 
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JHoward

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Idk,

The transmission thermostat by pass isn't regulating any certain temperature, but rather by-passing the factory transmission thermostat on the transmission heater, staying open instead of opening and closing which is regulating an certain set temperature(~180°-195°) getting it's "unnecessary heat" from the radiator to "warm up the transmission faster".

Heat can kill a transmission.

So, once the by-pass is installed, it eliminates the thermostat and transmission fluid is cooler and doesn't get "heated up" as much as it did because the tranny fluid is more "free flowing", so to speak.

This is how I understand how the tranny thermostat by-pass functions.
 
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caulk04

caulk04

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Is this designed to regulate trans temperature lower than factory setting and what are you trying to set parameters at
Thanks Bruce
No, this is a low cost solution to eliminate the thermostat and block flow through the heater circuit. Fluid flows through the cooler circuit only, exactly as if the thermostat were hot/open.

Here is a more expensive but very well built kit that will allow some temperature regulation with an aftermarket thermostat block.
 

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