Fuel Stablizers (not cleaners) - Gasoline

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HEMIMANN

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We've discussed gasoline fuel system CLEANERS ad infinitum, general consensus being PEA is still king of the chemicals for gasoline deposit removal, though the vendor base has shrunk.

I want to discuss gasoline STABILIZATION, for gasoline with or without ethanol from the pump (up to 15%, but NOT E85% or pure ethanol). Decades ago, Stabil and SeaFoam were pretty much the only gasoline stabilizers in town, available at mass outlets. Stabil is meant for storage only, SeaFoam is for light cleaning and some storage, but contains alcohol.

Some light research revealed a few more: PRI-G and Amsoil Gasoline Stabilizer. Both are targeted at gasoline stabilization for storage, NOT cleaning. PRI-G appears highly concentrated, based on low dosage rate, whereas Amsoil is conventional dosage rate of 1 ounce per gallon gasoline.

Of course, Amsoil shows how much better it is at gasoline stabilization than SeaFoam, being SeaFoam is not a primary stabilization additive. ha ha Cherry picking their tests for maximum effect.

As many of us don't drive as much since COVID / retirement, what do you use or know about gasoline stabilizers? Also for seasonal engines, of course. I've used Stabil for years. One year, a Stihl Dealer tried to convince me I didn't need gas stabilizer cause their 2 stroke oil had it. Guess what? Saws wouldn't start next spring. Friggin' moron. Always started with Stabil added. I've since switched to Amsoil Saber 2 stroke oil anyway, after I found Stihl oil was crap, not even JASO - same as their bar oil.

So - what's the latest and greatest?
I just bought a bottle of Amsoil Gasoline Stablizer along with my annual 2 stroke engine oil order. I still have saw bar oil leftover - the key there is antiwear additive in addition to tack additive. Harvest King is just as good for less.
I also store equipment with full fuel tanks to minimize corrosion and oxidation, and prevent drying out of elastomers. I am not a fan of draining fuel systems unless storing indefinitely.
 

Burla

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Leave the tank 95% full is one answer according to this guy. Need a way to mix the tank? ha.

The best way to avoid phase separation over the winter (aside from emptying the tank) is to leave the tank 95-percent full (which allows for expansion) so that there's less moist air in the tank, less space for condensation to collect, and more gasoline to absorb whatever moisture does accumulate.


This bad part is phase separation happens the bad stuff in this case sinks.

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HEMIMANN

HEMIMANN

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Well yes, but the question is really about latest and greatest chemical preservatives, which are anti-oxidants, I'd guess.

Back in the day decades ago, there were two types: chain-stoppers and metal surface deactivators. 40 years past lol
 

Burla

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That post suggested there is no such thing or something like that. Avoiding the possibility of phase separation is in theory possible. No moisture = no phase separation. Plastic tanks as well, cut down on moisture issue. Sorry I do not have a chemical answer.

I use this one in the past when I planned on not driving, I have no idea how or if it worked..

 

Burla

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That product pdf says it uses Glycol ethers. 2-butoxyethanol specifically,

If that sounds familiar I do believe that is in brake fluids.

So brake fluid is what stops phase separation, huh. Yeah do some research before pouring dot 3 or 4 down the pipe, lol.
.
 

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That post suggested there is no such thing or something like that. Avoiding the possibility of phase separation is in theory possible. No moisture = no phase separation. Plastic tanks as well, cut down on moisture issue. Sorry I do not have a chemical answer.

I use this one in the past when I planned on not driving, I have no idea how or if it worked..


Well, you probably would have known if it didn't work. :shrug:
 
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Curmudgeon

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For gas/ICE work around the property I have a small collection of equipment that gets only seasonal use.

I have:
*a small 2-stroke leaf blower (Poulan),
*a large 2-stroke leaf blower (backpack type, Echo),
*a very large push-type 4-stroke leaf blower (Champion),
a 4-stroke push mower (Toro),
a 4-stroke riding mower( Cub Cadet), and
a 40 year old Sears 4-stroke snow blower.

Also a Ryobi 4-stroke power washer, but I've only used it once, so... :shrug:

In past years I have tried:
Doing nothing to the equipment or gas - all runs fine the next year
Adding MMoil to the gas cans with some getting into the carbs - all good next year.
Adding STA-BIL to the gas cans with some getting into the carbs - all good next year.
Adding Pri-G to the gas cans with some getting into the carbs - all good next year.

NB: For about the past 5 years I have been running E0 non-eth gas in all the above.

*We get about 40 tons of leaves every year. We love trees, but it's a pain in the Fall.
 
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Burla

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Well, you probably would have known if it didn't work. :shrug:
I don't know if it was even needed though.

From that video, it appears the best time to add it is after phase separation might be suspected before you start up. Again, dunno but it looks effective immediately.
 

tjfdesmo

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I was in the OPE business for a long time. Best storage is dump the tank, and run it dry. Amsoil stabilizer is OK. Even though it is also a cleaner, Startron has actually proven pretty effective.
 
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HEMIMANN

HEMIMANN

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I was in the OPE business for a long time. Best storage is dump the tank, and run it dry. Amsoil stabilizer is OK. Even though it is also a cleaner, Startron has actually pretty pretty effective.

But what about all the little elastomer seals and such? Diaphragms, etc. They tend to dry out and crack, no?
 

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So these work, but do they "hold" water in suspension in the tank? To be honest, I think best practice would be as long as you have a poly gas tank use these products when you start up as opposed to put away for the winter. Then you know the water is in suspension.
 

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I use sta bil in the motorcycle, 5 gallon tank, run till it gets in the throttle body then cut it off.

I have not had any issues now in about 20 years so I know either I'm lucky or it kinda works.

I have a 2004 motorcycle that I bought new back in 2004 that I still ride. Only reason I can say it works. My 2010 and 2012 bikes get same treatment. All fire right up in the spring.

I never worry about the cars and trucks, they never sit that long
 

Burla

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ut oh this guy not liking star Tron... For motorcycles guy with steel tanks need to consider more.



19 month test.. new engines old fuel. Proves the enemy is ethanol, use true fuel and the fuel can sit for years.


Sta Bil 360 worked after 19 months.

.
 
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HEMIMANN

HEMIMANN

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Now that we have an industry standard gasoline additive stabilization test (ASTM D525) thanks to Amsoil, it's time for googling SPEC WARS!!! lol


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HEMIMANN

HEMIMANN

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ut oh this guy not liking star Tron... For motorcycles guy with steel tanks need to consider more.



19 month test.. new engines old fuel. Proves the enemy is ethanol, use true fuel and the fuel can sit for years.


Sta Bil 360 worked after 19 months.

.

Indeed - my Harley has an unlined steel tank! Well, I've been using Stabil in it, so good?

Dad always liked Penray products, made in a good old Illinois toxic chemical zone. He used to use Gum-Solve for carburetors - NOT Gum Out. Gum-Solve was a Penray product.
 

tjfdesmo

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We had opposite experience in the Onan Division of Cummins Power Generation. Go figure.
I was an Onan dealer too, on top of the bushels of Onans John Deere was using at the time, soon after their Kohler KT-17 disaster. CCK, B series, and Performers.
 
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