I don't like the coolant temperatures I'm seeing *SOLVED*

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EdGs

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2015 Ram 1500 QC 5.7L 2WD 8SPD 3.21

The solution:

Had a bad viscous fan clutch, <1 year-old P.O.S. 192° Motorad thermostat, and bad coolant temp sensor.

Replaced viscous fan clutch, NAPA brand, $117, roars like a lion at times....lol

Calorstat 192° thermostat from RockAuto, $14
Part # TH7217.89J, excellent part so far
20260310_123911.jpg
Replaced OE Coolant Temp Sensor, $68
From dealer, Chrysler part# 5149077AB

FWIW, Oil Temp Sensor is same part #


Original post:

Almost 209K miles

Original water pump, viscous fan clutch, and electric fan.

Motorad 192° tstat since my radiator job ~ 1 yr. ago (actually, about 8-9 months due to all my downtime for cam/lifter job). When I first got it, I DID check it on the stove, and it operated well.

Been seeing my coolant temps in the 220's occaisionally, but for the most part, they stay 201° - 210° ish.

Yesterday, I saw 230° briefly on my way home from work. Turned on my heat, and it dropped into that 200 - 210 range.

Went out again yesterday and saw 228° briefly.

When I got home, took a look, and my AGS were open. (I have not removed any vanes, yet).

This morning, I checked my coolant level in radiator and reservoir, both are full.

On my way to work, saw that brief 230° again, turned on my heat, and temp decreased and stayed 201° - 215° the rest of way to my work, ~ 20 miles.

Seems like I've seen the higher-than-I-care-for temps on first warm-up makes me think crappy t-stat, but I'm also mulling the miles on my water pump, fan clutch, and e-fan.

I might just buy an OE water pump anyway, since it doesn't owe me anything, but wanted y'alls thoughts as well on the temps I'm seeing.

Ever since my radiator shat the bed a year ago, and I hit that brief 240°, I have become A N A L about trying to watch my temperatures.

Sorry for the long read, thank you all for your input.
 
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Fast69Mopar

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2015 Ram 1500 QC 5.7L 2WD 8SPD 3.21

Almost 209K miles

Original water pump, viscous fan clutch, and electric fan.

Motorad 195° tstat since my cam/lifter job ~ 6 mo. ago. I DID check it on the stove, and it operated well.

Been seeing my coolant temps in the 220's occaisionally, but for the most part, they stay 201° - 210° ish.

Yesterday, I saw 230° briefly on my way home from work. Turned on my heat, and it dropped into that 200 - 210 range.

Went out again yesterday and saw 228° briefly.

When I got home, took a look, and my AGS were open. (I have not removed any vanes, yet).

This morning, I checked my coolant level in radiator and reservoir, both are full.

On my way to work, saw that brief 230° again, turned on my heat, and temp decreased and stayed 201° - 215° the rest of way to my work, ~ 20 miles.

Seems like I've seen the higher-than-I-care-for temps on first warm-up makes me think crappy t-stat, but I'm also mulling the miles on my water pump, fan clutch, and e-fan.

I'm gonna buy an OE water pump anyway, since it doesn't owe me anything, but wanted y'alls thoughts as well on the temps I'm seeing.

Ever since my radiator shat the bed a year ago, and I hit that brief 240°, I have become A N A L about trying to watch my temperatures.

Sorry for the long read, thank you all for your input.
Do you have an infrared thermometer? When I am working on vehicles that act **** yours does I like to check the temps of each component to help me identify where my issues are.

I check the coolant temp sensor body, thermostat housing temp, inlet/outlet of the radiator, water pump, heater hoses at the bulkhead, cylinder head temps, etc. All of these locations can help identify where the issue is coming from. Checking the inlet and outlet temps on the radiator will let you know how efficient the core is working.
 
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EdGs

EdGs

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Do you have an infrared thermometer? When I am working on vehicles that act **** yours does I like to check the temps of each component to help me identify where my issues are.

I check the coolant temp sensor body, thermostat housing temp, inlet/outlet of the radiator, water pump, heater hoses at the bulkhead, cylinder head temps, etc. All of these locations can help identify where the issue is coming from. Checking the inlet and outlet temps on the radiator will let you know how efficient the core is working.
No, I do not, but perhaps I should invest in one.

Great suggestion.

I have heard of water pump impeller issues on some pumps. With the mileage on mine, I figure I couldn't go wrong by replacing it, I'm really impressed it has lasted like it has.

As near as I can tell, my electric fan works, unless it is going intermittent from brush wear.

I'm not sure how to test the viscous fan clutch.

Oh, and when my temp hit 230°, my temperature needle was a little above the half mark.
 
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yogibear18

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Well I wrote a similar post, besides doing cam/lifters and thermostat, had a random spike in temperature, coolant level was down about less than 1/2 gallon, topped off several days later leaking on left side back as you see in pictures, take in consideration my truck is an ‘18 with 60+ thousand miles, its sad to see it failed at such low mileage, carefully check over all your coolant items so you don’t end up with what I had to fix
 

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EdGs

EdGs

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Well I wrote a similar post, besides doing cam/lifters and thermostat, had a random spike in temperature, coolant level was down about less than 1/2 gallon, topped off several days later leaking on left side back as you see in pictures, take in consideration my truck is an ‘18 with 60+ thousand miles, its sad to see it failed at such low mileage, carefully check over all your coolant items so you don’t end up with what I had to fix
Yeah, I hear you. No coolant loss for me, still full. Just have to find out what's not happening.

I have a temp gun, gonna fire her up in about 30 minutes to see what is going on.

I had my radiator out when I did my cam job, so no obstructions, and radiatior is only ~ 1 year old.

Not sure if my AGS might be sticking or my thermostat, or if my electric fan isn't operating properly. I do not know the operating parameters for the e-fan or AGS either, or how to check the viscous fan clutch.
 

Mojo88

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.....Not sure if my AGS might be sticking or my thermostat, or if my electric fan isn't operating properly. I do not know the operating parameters for the e-fan or AGS either, or how to check the viscous fan clutch.

Like you, I keep close eye on temp gauge. I bought my truck (2019 Longhorn 5.7L) 18 months ago, and it ran hot, sometimes reaching 230*. I put in a Mishimoto 180* stat, but the fan and AGS still kept things hot, so I ended up digging into the tune. I changed settings in my tune for the fan, and that controls the AGS.

Even tho mine is 2019, I would 'assume' your fan/AGS is set up the same way. In other words, when the fan comes on (or slightly before), the AGS will open up. I have confirmed this action numerous times by physically watching the temps creep up, then stopping in a parking lot to open the hood and watch the actions of the temp, the fan, and the AGS. I adjusted my fan settings multiple times, and the AGS open/close would always open slightly before the fan came on, at the new settings. It all works like a charm now, mostly cruising at 185-190*, then at 195* fan/AGS activate and temps back down to cruising range.

My recommendation would be to drive around, then as soon as the temps start creeping up, stop in a parking lot, open the hood, and watch the temp gauge, fan and AGS to see what is actually happening and at what temps. I'd write it all down.... My initial suspect would be the stat, but other suggestions here are quite valid as well.
 
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EdGs

EdGs

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Like you, I keep close eye on temp gauge. I bought my truck (2019 Longhorn 5.7L) 18 months ago, and it ran hot, sometimes reaching 230*. I put in a 192* stat, but the fan and AGS still kept things hot, so I ended up digging into the tune. I changed settings in my tune for the fan, and that controls the AGS.

Even tho mine is 2019, I would 'assume' your fan/AGS is set up the same way. In other words, when the fan comes on (or slightly before), the AGS will open up. I have confirmed this action numerous times by physically watching the temps creep up, then stopping in a parking lot to open the hood and watch the actions of the temp, the fan, and the AGS. I adjusted my fan settings multiple times, and the AGS open/close would always open slightly before the fan came on, at the new settings. It all works like a charm now, mostly cruising at 185-190*.

My recommendation would be to drive around, then as soon as the temps start creeping up, stop in a parking lot, open the hood, and watch the temp gauge, fan and AGS to see what is actually happening and at what temps. I'd write it all down....
I will have to see what my temps are.

When my truck was younger, I don't ever remember seeing my coolant temp above 203°.

I have a locked pcm, and do not have alfaOBD yet, so not sure what I will be able to adjust there.

I also have a thermostat with the guts removed, half-tempted to install that as well.

I was gonna just be proactive and replace my water pump just due to having 209k miles but my Wife summarily chewed my a$$ out for wanting to do that.
 

Mojo88

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I will have to see what my temps are.

I have a locked pcm, and do not have alfaOBD yet, so not sure what I will be able to adjust there.

I was gonna just be proactive and replace my water pump just due to having 209k miles but my Wife summarily chewed my a$$ out for wanting to do that.
Honestly, the pump would be among the very last thing I would suspect. Yes, the impeller could fail, but that's rare. Much more common would simply be a leak, at which point the pump would (of course) need to be replaced. I think you need a little more diagnosis work.............. :smoke2:
 
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EdGs

EdGs

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Honestly, the pump would be among the very last thing I would suspect. Yes, the impeller could fail, but that's rare. Much more common would simply be a leak, at which point the pump would (of course) need to be replaced. I think you need a little more diagnosis work.............. :smoke2:
My 195° Motorad tstat is only a few months old, makes me wonder if it is sticking closed.

Stay tuned for my heat-up and readings.
 

Mojo88

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A 195* stat means you'd likely cruise around at ~200*. If the fan and/or AGS are not kicking in until much later, then that means you'll run hotter than 200*. Of course, these trucks are set up from the factory to run 'hot'. If the AGS are staying closed, then that's gonna heat you up, no matter what you do.
 

Adamcr68

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I will have to see what my temps are.

When my truck was younger, I don't ever remember seeing my coolant temp above 203°.

I have a locked pcm, and do not have alfaOBD yet, so not sure what I will be able to adjust there.

I also have a thermostat with the guts removed, half-tempted to install that as well.

I was gonna just be proactive and replace my water pump just due to having 209k miles but my Wife summarily chewed my a$$ out for wanting to do that.
That’s just pocket change after doing your rebuild, tell her you’re protecting your investment and think of all the labor cost you save doing the work yourself.
That’s what I would do if I were you but being me and not wanting to sleep on the couch for a month, I would say of course your right dear.
Seriously I have no doubt you get this figured out, good luck with your repair, already know you’ll update.
 

Burla

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RMI 25 cleaned everything it touches, you can have confidence no slime, plus you can try a water wetter. My worry ED is waiting with those temps can dare I say warp something knock wood. You can use a water wetter until you put the pump in, I assume you will be putting all new stuff that day for cooling system.
 
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EdGs

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Ok, here's what I have so far.

Sorry for the delay, had a truck come in during my lunch break.

Cheap $35 temp gun from home depot reads a couple degrees lower than evic at the water pump housing below the temp sensor. When evic temp is 210°, gun reads 207°.

On the black upper rad hose just above the fitting at the tstat, only read ~138° (and it was near that because I could grab the hose and hang on for a bit).

Heater core hoses near firewall were 150° ish.

AGS were open. My evic got to 221°, then heard my fan kick on and my upper hose started getting hot and temps 180° to 190° on upper hose. EVIC temp dropped into 200° - 210° range.

On the nut for the fan clutch, could only read about 135°, but the water pump body behind the pulley was ~ 205° ish.

Also, the viscous fan wasn't spinning very fast, and I could stop it with my hand very easy.

Also, when I first started her after unloading the truck, there was a little growling in there somewhere, but not sure from what.

Bad t-stat? Water pump? Fan clutch?

Thoughts?
 
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EdGs

EdGs

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RMI 25 cleaned everything it touches, you can have confidence no slime, plus you can try a water wetter. My worry ED is waiting with those temps can dare I say warp something knock wood. You can use a water wetter until you put the pump in, I assume you will be putting all new stuff that day for cooling system.
I heard that, If I have to drain cooling l system, gonna try to save what I can since coolant is new. If I can.
 
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EdGs

EdGs

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I have a thermostat that has the guts removed. Gonna give that one a go tonight, and see how the temps act.

Also have an OE 203° , I'd rather get a different brand 192° or 195°, or say fukk it and go 180°.
 
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