Oil Filter Thread

[HEMIMANN]

I don't know the minutia bri, and I don't know why the range and not a set value. What is your lug nut thread size and what does book say torque spec? Not in that charts range?

Screen pic -

 

[Burla]

Screen pic -

View attachment 545744

I don't know how that translates, the way they express lug nut size doesn't match chart or standard known common knowledge measurements for lug thread size. M14 x1.5 mise well be in Chinese. They have models some cones some flanged, Jesus. sigh.

 

[Burla]

What is the stud size either in mm or inches should lead you to the correct range using known charts. If that isn't available just using whatever gorilla says your lug nut thread size will also get you into the range using a chart. This is all I know on the subject. Used my torque sticks 140 ft pounds, and I called it a day.. I will update if the wheels come off and I'm still alive.

 

[Treburkulosis]

So what are we liking filter wise? Texas Speed said 15w50 Mobil 1 in my 408. 15 years ago The Wix truck filter is what we all used. I was thinking XP but you guys know your stuff.

 

[JHoward]

Some folks have opted from Royal Purple oil filters to the FRAM XG Ultra Synthetic or FRAM FE SYNTHETIC Endurance.

I'm currently using the Purolator Boss.

 

[HEMIMANN]

'K - I checked some supplier torque charts, and the 130-140 ft-lbs torque is correct. IF you have 14mm lugs.

It took me a bit because these are fine threaded, not coarse. Coarse is not used in industrial applications, so took me a while to dig out M14x1.5 pitch. Coarse (standard) is M14x2

My guess is the strength class is 8.8 according to the charts, and this makes sense to me. That's what I'd spec for design for a number of reasons I won't drone on about.

Don't know where you got your chart, but it's not correct for lug nuts.

We now rejoin our oil filter discussion already in progress.........

 

[HEMIMANN]

Some folks have opted from Royal Purple oil filters to the FRAM XG Ultra Synthetic or FRAM FE SYNTHETIC Endurance.

I'm currently using the Purolator Boss.

Yeah, from what we've been able to dig up so far, Fram XG was cheapened and replaced by Fram FE Endurance.

There is conflicting data on Purolator Boss - an online test guy showed high filtration efficiency, but a test by a certified lab did not. The lab showed a very coarse rock catcher like a Wix. I kind of believe this because the flow rate matched that of a Wix.

 

[JHoward]

Yeah, from what we've been able to dig up so far, Fram XG was cheapened and replaced by Fram FE Endurance.

There is conflicting data on Purolator Boss - an online test guy showed high filtration efficiency, but a test by a certified lab did not. The lab showed a very coarse rock catcher like a Wix. I kind of believe this because the flow rate matched that of a Wix.

I picked up a FRAM FE 10575 SYNTHETIC Endurance at Wal-"mark" earlier today, same equivalent to the Royal Purple 20-500 ... I'mma gonna cut it open and take a look see.

I'll post a few pics later.

 

[Burla]

'K - I checked some supplier torque charts, and the 130-140 ft-lbs torque is correct. IF you have 14mm lugs.

It took me a bit because these are fine threaded, not coarse. Coarse is not used in industrial applications, so took me a while to dig out M14x1.5 pitch. Coarse (standard) is M14x2

My guess is the strength class is 8.8 according to the charts, and this makes sense to me. That's what I'd spec for design for a number of reasons I won't drone on about.

Don't know where you got your chart, but it's not correct for lug nuts.

We now rejoin our oil filter discussion already in progress.........

So another thing M14 is supposed to mean 14mm? Just add to the confusion because 14m is meter not mm, especially since most charts don't include 14mm. So what is 14mm in inches? This place has 14mm stud as 85-95, and that cant be right? what the simple kf is going on. knowing more about threads is gonna help with filters.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yea, M14 means 14 mm thread diameter = 0.5511811024 inch

M stands for metric.
The number is millimeters.
The 2nd number is thread pitch in mm linear movement per 1 turn.

 

[Burla]

Yea, M14 means 14 mm thread diameter = 0.5511811024 inch

M stands for metric.
The number is millimeters.
The 2nd number is thread pitch in mm linear movement per 1 turn.

so 14mm is basically 1/2 inch and all the charts say the same thing for 14mm and 1/2 inch. Clearly something is wrong. It isn't pertaining to my two vehicles so I leave it there, but I'd look into it if my OEM 14mm said 130ft pounds, something is wrong there somewhere.

 

[HEMIMANN]

No, they don't include the strength class.

SAE English bolt strengths are Grade 2, 5, 8, 12?
Torque goes up for each.
Grade 2 is a commercial steel bolt.
Grade 5 is an alloy steel voltage.
Grade 8 is a heat treated alloy steel bolt.
They are spec'd based on clamp force needed within the space available.
To get the higher clamp loads available with the stronger steels requires higher torques.

 

[Burla]

No, they don't include the strength class.

SAE English bolt strengths are Grade 2, 5, 8, 12?
Torque goes up for each.
Grade 2 is a commercial steel bolt.
Grade 5 is an alloy steel voltage.
Grade 8 is a heat treated alloy steel bolt.
They are spec'd based on clamp force needed within the space available.
To get the higher clamp loads available with the stronger steels requires higher torques.

If you buy Gorilla lugs, who do you listen to, gorilla or OEM specs? Because for your 14 x 1.5 gorilla recommends like 95ftpnd and OEM says what you showed 130. To be honest from what I have seen it is only that size where there is bad info, the standard Toyota sizing is 75ft pounds and most of the larger size are 130ftpnd, but the 14mm is completely whack.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Nope - it's not just 14mm. Either engineers today don't know what they're doing (suspect), or they're using the wrong tables. I could calculate this by hand without looking up T=c*d*F, and we designed the F load.

Anyway, 14mm (0.5512 inch) is closer to 9/16" (0.5625 inch) than 1/2" (0.5000 inch). So look in the SAE Fine Thread table below (the bottom table) at 9/16" threads. Go from left to right from weakest to strongest grade of steel. Torque specs are not constant for a single thread size! They range from 73 ft-lbs to 201 ft-lbs.

You HAVE TO know what type of steel the bolt has. Or you'll under-torque, risking it coming apart, or over-torque and snap the bolt head off. Or hope to god the junior engineer assigned to the task has someone somewhere guiding them. That is usually no longer the case anymore.

Addendum: this chart is from Fastenal, a major worldwide fastener supplier. We used them almost exclusively at one point - no counterfeit issues.
Also I see I'm obsolete, no surprise, SAE Grade 2 has become ASTM 307A, and what the high grade was is now FNL Grade 9, used by aerospace and military.

 

[Burla]

Well, everyone has to figure it out, if you have after market lugs what do you torque them too, OEM specs or their specs, chances are they are different, lol. man, crazy??

Two steels are involved, lug nut and lug bolt. Now, I am over torqued? I'm glad I asked, but fell into something crahazy.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Well, everyone has to figure it out, if you have after market lugs what do you torque them too, OEM specs or their specs, chances are they are different, lol. man, crazy??

Two steels are involved, lug nut and lug bolt. Now, I am over torqued? I'm glad I asked, but fell into something crahazy.

Your only choice is to point out the discrepancy between industrial bolt torque specs with theirs, and ask why.

More important is to look at your O&M Manual. If that torque spec differs from a vendor's, don't use the vendor's parts - because they don't clamp the wheel to the hub tight enough (unless the vendor can claim they are so highly lubricated their recommended torque spec will produce the same clamp load as dry threads with the O&M torque spec).

That's all I got for you.

 

[Wild one]

so 14mm is basically 1/2 inch and all the charts say the same thing for 14mm and 1/2 inch. Clearly something is wrong. It isn't pertaining to my two vehicles so I leave it there, but I'd look into it if my OEM 14mm said 130ft pounds, something is wrong there somewhere.

View attachment 545758

130 to 140 lb-ft covers both flanged and cone M14-1.5 wheel nuts by my 700 page manual.
Cone calls for 120 to 140 lb-ft
Flanged calls for 130 to 160 lb-ft

 

[Burla]

Your only choice is to point out the discrepancy between industrial bolt torque specs with theirs, and ask why.

More important is to look at your O&M Manual. If that torque spec differs from a vendor's, don't use the vendor's parts - because they don't clamp the wheel to the hub tight enough (unless the vendor can claim they are so highly lubricated their recommended torque spec will produce the same clamp load as dry threads with the O&M torque spec).

That's all I got for you.

I wouldnt mind using oem, except for the oem are capped lug nuts and are straight shiet.

 

[Wild one]

I wouldnt mind using oem, except for the oem are capped lug nuts and are straight shiet.

These are handy for removing wheel nuts after they've been on and off a few times Mike.

Amazon.com

 

[Burla]

McGard, I think my next set of lugs made in USA, states to use the manu's torque numbers.

3. Tighten lug nuts in a progressive crisscross pattern to the recommende

d installation torque found in your vehicle owner’s manual. For best results, use a torque wrench and socket for final tightening.
Notice: Impact guns usually cannot be set and/or maintain proper pressure to obtain proper installation torque and should not be used for lug nut installation. Use of an impact wrench can result in uneven or over tightening of lug nuts, which could damage studs, wheels or distort brake rotors.

4. Re-torque the lug nuts after 25 miles of driving.