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No shat! Sometimes I drive conservatively and sometimes I don't. Like on ling trips and when family is in. Plus when towing the boat. I'm very conservative but that's when I get the worst mileage. Lol.
plus I run WOT for no reason other than to hear my 6.4 scream. I love it.
I've got MDS. I just want it to be stock. I do own a Mustang to go fast and have fun. Lol. This is a daily driver boat hauler on weekends. Plus I spend so much money on my Steed that I know my wife won't let me buy aftermarket parts for the Hemi. She is making woman noises about $588 for this kit. Plus bolts and if I want to remove the MDS. It will be a different kit. No MDS cam and lifters. It's the tuner I don't have. She won't go for one. She will want me to use the Mustang one not knowing it's married to my stang. It's a. SCT X4. So I may not delete the MDS.
Thanks for all that. Not sure about the bolts or torqueing the heads. It's the timing I'm worried about. I'm not having head work done. Just want it back to stock. After spending a lot on a supercharger for stang and then this I'm only going to be allowed to fix what I have with the stock stuff. Plus I'll need the redline oil and new coolant. The whole thing has me worried. I've got a good Snap on torque wrench. Don't have a great inch/lb one. I have one with the arm that moves. Old school type. I'm very nervous. My Ram isn't to tall. I'll remove the radiator and fan and stand in there. I hear you on the abs. They get sore. It will take me a couple of weekends too. So I'm going to need **** to keep stuff from rusting. I've got lots of taps I am a maintenance man.(sorry so long)
Congrats on taking the jump to correct your valve train before it takes out the motor. I just did mine 3 months ago with 90k mi on the clock. I agree with a lot of what has already been said.
Just a few things to consider: First point mine was a total pain in the ***. It was my first chrysler anything and Im sure it would go easier / faster second time or more. But for round one, I was frustrated from start to finish. Would I do it again? Hell yes, in a heartbeat. I just need to increase my meditation time.
I already had headers, they add to the tightness of the work area. Several other name calling sessions were on me and the lack of a good set of torque wrenches. You don't coming loose, gotta be religous about torque specs and patterns - you'll rest easier at night. My inch lb torque wrench was a brand new pos from China. I broke one of the M5 ( I think) bolts that hold the lifter rail in place. Extraction from the block when i didnt' want dust in my engine, f. I did it with a cheap torque wrench. The small ones are the most important I think, tight as possible (torque spec) without stripping or breaking, quality torque wrench.
I would seriously consider pulling the engine if I were to do it again. Many reasons for this. Cleanliness is paramount if you want longevity from your efforts and investment. It will be considerably easier to keep your internals clean outside the engine bay. Once the heads were off and the timing chain cover, I had a block sitting on two motor mounts with 10 bolts ish to the bell housing. For the amount of ab pain I endured bent over my lifted Wagon became significant enough I ordered a over the top creeper. It helped but I'd rather be standing up when I am getting my *** kicked. lol
The quality of the build will be far superior if you pull your engine. You won't, I wouldn't have, and it'll be fine but you'll see zactly what I'm spit'n when you get there.
Also, check out "degreeing your cam" type of search online / youtube. You don't have to degree your cam, most don't. Many do a cam swap to address Hemi tick, many tick when they start back up. Degreeing the cam has nothing to do with the tick, most ticks any way. But I feel its in indicator of the exactness of your build. I went with a more aggressive cam in mine, had to install the phasor lock, Im somewhat ocd, so I degreed mine. Three tiimes, just cause I make mistakes, I make em when I want to the least and degreeing in an exact science. A degree matters
You'll be fine without degreeing your cam, but be informed of the procedure and you decide from there. I would degree mine again, even three times. lol
Your head bolts are listed as one time use. You can probably get away with reusing them but I would not. You also don't need ARP bolts but if you hve then you can resuse them. Research and you will find it is not recommended.
When you reinstall the heads, after chasing the tapped holes with a thread chasing tap to clean them, torque the heads to spec, and then back the heads bolts out and then do it again. This goes a long way in confirming proper torque has been applied to a prepared fastener. And No it is absolutely not necessary but some of the best engine builders do (I'm not one of them )
As far as additonal supplies, engine assembly **** and cam assembly **** would probably serve you well. Not mandatory, and even an extra pain in the *** because after the first 10 to 15 minutes of run time, it's best to change the oil to get rid of that lotion looking crap. Roller cam really need it? Comp cams sent me a smidge and I bought more.
I changed my oil three times in the first 500 miles. I wasnt fully jazzed with my ability to keep everything perfectly debris free, especially with the damn bolt extraction I had to perform. (it broke easily, seriously, it did. lol)
Hitting that key the first time, lol, that is what I call living. Terrified of what I was about to do, and I do it anyway. I am happy to report that mine has not ticked on one revolution since the lifters pumped up on initial start. I was just away for over a week, she hadn't been bumped a bit, the sound of Hemi starting with no tick is one incredibly lovely sound.
I even record my starting, under the hood, with the hood down. LOL I know, what a dork.
Oh yes, my personally, I'm buying my critical parts for Nick from above way before I'm buying from Amazon - for many reasons.
Greene Racing Comp Cams non mds VVT cam , Mopar Hellcat lifters (non mds), RPM valve springs, heads shaved (light), ported, multiangle valve job, ported intake manifold, Fastman tru 84mm throttle body, Circle D custom (I guess so) 3000 stall tc, EGR delete, CAT delete, Mech Fan delete, Greene Racing tune.
She's not totally dialed in yet, Ive been busy, but she's close, spins 6500 rpm cleanly with 4000 miles on modification. not a tick in site but I might torpedo a push rod tomorrow.
Mine cost a **** ton more the $1500, my head work was $1700.
Keep it clean and torque to spec. Good luck brother and many people here to help. I could not have done it without the research I was able to do from the Ramf family.
take pictures. they are fun to look at later. condition of things as your are taking apart. lifters out of the bores, cam , push rods, put em to close inspection serious scrutiny. look for potential future issues, cam journals. bla bla
OH the plastic connectors, ***, those ******* little things have a lock to protect the lock needed to be unlocked so it can come apart. Everyone is different and they ****** me off. not a good strt (sorry that just burst out of me).
I don't think I need to degree the cam. I saw on Hot Rod garage Lucky used a little degree thing on his ratchet that showed him 90 degrees when he turned the ratchet. Looked like a breaker bar to me. Anyways, I was just curious if it was needed or not.
I have the tick and now it's starting to miss out on acceleration and idle. And it's getting worse.
Yeah, sounds like lifter/cam problem. Mine started as an intermittent miss, had factory plugs in it with 92,000 miles, thought that was the problem. After changing plugs, still had the miss, and under full throttle would pull hard then start what felt like jumping continuously for a few seconds then smooth out. Eventually got to where it was doing it when I would pull out from a dead stop under normal throttle. It also showed a code for the sensor in the tube from the air box to the throttle body.
